Rear wheel play

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

I just fitted new cush drive rubbers to reduce the play in the drive line that manifests itself mostly in second gear downchanges. The old ones were very compressed and with the back brake on there was a lot of rear wheel rotation. It is now much better with new ones but could someone please do this test for me? Just put the back brake on and see if you have ANY angular rotation or if it's right on the rubbers. I think someone may have ground down the drive tabs to get the two to mate together.

concours · Aug 4, 2014

FastFred said:
I just fitted new cush drive rubbers to reduce the play in the drive line that manifests itself mostly in second gear downchanges. The old ones were very compressed and with the back brake on there was a lot of rear wheel rotation. It is now much better with new ones but could someone please do this test for me? Just put the back brake on and see if you have ANY angular rotation or if it's right on the rubbers. I think someone may have ground down the drive tabs to get the two to mate together.

Mine has zero rotation with new cushions.
Also, there is a taper machined on the drive pins, may look like having been "ground down".

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

Thanks realise that about the tapers. I think I will shim it..

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

Thanks realise that about the tapers. I think I will shim it..

Onder · Aug 4, 2014

I put in new buffers recently and I thought I would need a 50 ton press to get the drum to go all the way into the hub! The pins are tapered and I used
lube but good lord it was a battle. How you could have any play is beyond me. With 250 miles on them they are still entirely tight. Checked this very
moment.
As soon as Im able Ill order the madass cush drive setup. Surely it will work better, last longer and there will be far less drama at wheel change time.
Stock configuration is pathetic.

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

That's what I would have expected although perhaps not the 50 ton press. Probably a quality issue, tolerancing or it could be one of those 'better than original' parts from those who never understood the actual design intent...

concours · Aug 4, 2014

FastFred said:
That's what I would have expected although perhaps not the 50 ton press. Probably a quality issue, tolerancing or it could be one of those 'better than original' parts from those who never understood the actual design intent...

Got thick and thin buffers?

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

Yes new ones

Hobot · Aug 4, 2014

When I fit new cushions i find it best to remove drum too and force fit on the floor with a bit of glue to hold cushions to walls. After some use the paddles slip in and out stratifying the 'quick change cushion rear wheel' designation. Too reduce the need of replacement I only use sections of tire side wall for a decade now. Do check the paddles are nailed down so no twisting slack.

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

Those paddles rotate! Should they?

Nater_Potater · Aug 4, 2014

FastFred said:
Those paddles rotate! Should they?

No! They should be staked tightly so as to be one with the iron drum. If they're loose, there's the possibility of them shearing off under hard acceleration.

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

Thanks. They definitely rotated through about our minus ten degrees. I will fix them first and see if that alters the slack.

FastFred · Aug 4, 2014

Plus or minus...

Hobot · Aug 4, 2014

Bike is fine to run with loose twisting paddles till they fast chew up the cushions then drive train slack and metal/metal shock loads occur back thru gearbox to engine. D/t how close brake shoe past the paddle bases ya best to grind below surface some of drill through seam in couple places so still some weld left after grind back almost flush again. Drill 3 holes and fill with JBW should do it too.

Rear wheel play

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