- Joined
- Mar 25, 2008
- Messages
- 41
I was tracing down a leak and it looks like my rear transmission seal is leaking. Any tips on removal of the seal it is still in the bike. Thanks.
Rear Transmission Seal Removal 73 850
- Thread starter photoguy_43420
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2008
- Messages
- 41
It is the one behind the couter shaft sprocket. I would say the out put shaft. So it would be the rear most from the front.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,415
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2008
- Messages
- 41
Yes item 9.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,415
photoguy_43420 said:
Not exactly a 5-minute job as the complete primary drive has to be removed (see manual, sections C14 & C15) and for this, you will need the clutch spring compressor tool and engine sprocket puller.
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repai ... mmando.pdf
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-dr ... alternator
Also a 7/8W (1.480" hex.) box/tube wrench or deep socket for the sprocket nut. It's likely the seal will have worn a groove in the sprocket spacer (item 29, part 04-0131) if so, fit a new one, and perhaps fit a new sprocket too if it's showing signs of wear.
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2008
- Messages
- 41
I have all that removed. Just wondered if anyone has any tips on getting the seal out.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2005
- Messages
- 2,835
If you can remove Item #29 then you should be able to pry the seal out with a flat blade screw driver. Tapping the new one back in may be a challenge but could be done. Check #29 for a groove caused by the seal contact area. Replace if you see any indications.photoguy_43420 said:
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2013
- Messages
- 505
Normally you'd replace the seal with the mainshaft out of the transmission and just knock it out from inside.
If you've got the primary off you're halfway there. To do it without pulling the trans apart is another story.
I suppose you could drive a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a vicegrip. Crazy talk, I know.
Taking the transmission apart isn't as bad as it looks and you could check the bushings while you're in there.
If the seal is shot the trans could probably benefit from some attention too.
If you've got the primary off you're halfway there. To do it without pulling the trans apart is another story.
I suppose you could drive a wood screw into the seal and pull it out with a vicegrip. Crazy talk, I know.
Taking the transmission apart isn't as bad as it looks and you could check the bushings while you're in there.
If the seal is shot the trans could probably benefit from some attention too.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2005
- Messages
- 195
AND while you're there..... the threaded rod that the shift forks slide on comes out thru the case in the same neighborhood as the "rear" seal and has been known to leak some oil past the threads so put some kind of sealer on the threads and make sure it is tight.
Been there done that.
Ride On
Dave
Been there done that.
Ride On
Dave
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2009
- Messages
- 85
Whilst we are on the subject of this seal is it recommended to use a sealant/ thread locker of any kind around the outer edge of the seal.
I ask because my newly rebuilt gearbox started leaking from here. The new seal had slid forward towards the sprocket.
Dave
I ask because my newly rebuilt gearbox started leaking from here. The new seal had slid forward towards the sprocket.
Dave
MS850
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2015
- Messages
- 493
Slide hammer seal/dent puller works great.
Harbor freight has them cheap, Im sure ebay has them also.
http://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-puller-set-14-pc-60554.html
Harbor freight has them cheap, Im sure ebay has them also.
http://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-puller-set-14-pc-60554.html
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2005
- Messages
- 2,835
IMHO
if you have removed the primary cases, then nothing stops you to remove the gearbox. take the top iso off from the head and remove a few rear engine bolts that hold on the engine cradle to tilt the engine to clear the gearbox as it slides forward to get it out of the opening.
Then the gearbox can be mounted on a vise to be attended to.
much easier than squatting down and dealing with it. :roll:
cheers,
Thomas
CNN
if you have removed the primary cases, then nothing stops you to remove the gearbox. take the top iso off from the head and remove a few rear engine bolts that hold on the engine cradle to tilt the engine to clear the gearbox as it slides forward to get it out of the opening.
Then the gearbox can be mounted on a vise to be attended to.
much easier than squatting down and dealing with it. :roll:
cheers,
Thomas
CNN
I don't agree with that. Unless you're tearing down to strip and paint the frame, it just doesn't seem worth pulling the gearbox for the sake of the gearbox work only. There is nothing that you can't do with it in the cradle. Changing the lay shaft bearing is literally an under an hour job. Pulling the primary will surely take more time than anything relating to R&R with the gearbox.CanukNortonNut said:
Sure, it's a little low and my 62 your old back with a L4-L5 laminectomy doesn't like it, but once you have taken it apart and put it together a few times, you realize it is one of the easier assemblies to address.
As far a the seal goes, drill a few small hole, screw is sheet metal screws and pry it out. If you want to get tricky, just blunt the end of the screws and screw the screws in until it pushes the seal out. No big whoop.
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2005
- Messages
- 2,835
If I were on the side of the road....I would not want to pull it out. If I am in my garage, then....each to his own.
YMMV.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
YMMV.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
- Status
