rear isolastic mounting bolt is smaller than the bush

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tommy666bikes said:
MFB said:
P.S.
Norvil's web site says that Les doesn't do email. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Hi By the look of it Les doesnt like to help much at all unless hes getting paid , guess ill be getting my parts elsewhere in the future
Click to expand...

This seems to be the usual response to these problems.
 
rvich said:
tommy666bikes said:
MFB said:
P.S.
Norvil's web site says that Les doesn't do email. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Hi By the look of it Les doesnt like to help much at all unless hes getting paid , guess ill be getting my parts elsewhere in the future
Click to expand...

This seems to be the usual response to these problems.
Click to expand...
Ive now got 2 bushes made from stainless steel 1 inch in length so i think im sorted now , many thanks for all your help and advice , ps guess what???? still no reply from the very helpful les emery at norvil what a poor service they provide and they are not the cheapest either so not much to recommend really is there
regards Tom
 
I got an email from Les when I order the bottom end kit with the C3 superblends. He said they wouldn't last but he did send them.

Dave
69S
 
I don't wish to criticise the Norvil company. I have purchased quite a few parts from them and their service has always been prompt, efficient and friendly.
I should have added that they reserve their email for order processing to enable them to achieve this service. Les offers advice by phone at set times, but due to the time Australia-England time factor, my contact has been by fax.
Regards
Martin
 
Or Swooshdave at 6459. I'm not trying for a record here.

Dave
69S
 
on a similar theme, rebuilding the bike, it was sitting with the old shim type isolastics on it. when I put the vernier type on I was surprised at how short the cap was, (the part that goes on to the cradle,) also much sloppier fit it has compared to the old one. so the engine will be vibrating on the cradle to caps before the rubber bushes get a look-in. I'm going to turn some up with a nice tight fit. got to be the way to go.
 
kickstart said:
when I put the vernier type on I was surprised at how short the cap was, (the part that goes on to the cradle,) also much sloppier fit it has compared to the old one. so the engine will be vibrating on the cradle to caps before the rubber bushes get a look-in.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I'm not following you here. The rubbers are a tight fit in the cradle. The tube which is bonded to the rubbers is locked tightly to the frame lugs, so the rubbers will be doing their job straight away. The vernier caps at the ends of the tube only serve to provide adjustment for lateral play. In the Norvil kit that I used, the original shim cups and PTFE washers are retained, but no shims are needed since adjustment is done with the vernier cap.
Hope this is helpful.

Cheers
Martin
 
MFB said:
kickstart said:
when I put the vernier type on I was surprised at how short the cap was, (the part that goes on to the cradle,) also much sloppier fit it has compared to the old one. so the engine will be vibrating on the cradle to caps before the rubber bushes get a look-in.
Click to expand...

Sorry but I'm not following you here. The rubbers are a tight fit in the cradle. The tube which is bonded to the rubbers is locked tightly to the frame lugs, so the rubbers will be doing their job straight away. The vernier caps at the ends of the tube only serve to provide adjustment for lateral play. In the Norvil kit that I used, the original shim cups and PTFE washers are retained, but no shims are needed since adjustment is done with the vernier cap.
Click to expand...

I think kickstart means the cradle tube caps, not the collars.
 
The only correct solution is to sling the stuff back as not fit for purpose, but be prepared to take a hit, because you won't get a refund on your postage, even if they do acknowledge the stuff is junk.

I just went through this with them on a set of head bolts which I couldn't use - I lost half a day finding out, and it cost me 20 quid into the bargain :cry:
Great website, though, and very helpful when identifying which part to buy from someone else, because I won't be buying from them again in a hurry.
It makes me embarrased to be British.

/rant

If you're using the MkIII type verniers I believe they're made from a different rubber compound (heavier engine + electric start), and may alter the damping characteristics - I elected to replace the bushes with originals, and bought the vernier adjusters from Mick Hemmings.

rear isolastic mounting bolt is smaller than the bush
 
Yes to the Hemmings adjusters. Work as advertised.

Dave
69S
 
Speaking of which, how many little tiny allens are used on each
adjuster? Mine only seems to have one, has the blue nylon or
whatever on the tip.
One doesnt seem to me to be enough.
 
L.A.B. said:
I think kickstart means the cradle tube caps, not the collars.
Click to expand...

Thanks L.A.B. A slight misunderstanding in terminology here.
Are the "caps" the shim cups I mentioned? Maybe my 70 model differs from later ones, which I am not familiar with.
In any case, it should not be detrimental to the functioning of the isolastic system if the caps were to "float" a little, since they are the interface between the vibrating assembly and the non-vibrating one. My original caps, which I re-used as per the instructions (the kit did not include new caps anyway), ARE quite a snug fit on the cradle tube.
Kickstart, when you make new caps, make sure their i.d. is much larger than the o.d. of the vernier tube, as the original shim cups are, since this radial clearance is what allows the engine/cradle assembly to vibrate independently of the frame.

Cheers
Martin
 
MFB said:
A slight misunderstanding in terminology here.
Are the "caps" the shim cups I mentioned?
Click to expand...

I think so, they are usually referred to as "tube" or "end" caps in the manuals and parts books.
 
A little off subject but how are those two smaller inner bushing supposed to work? The two outer ones are compressed in there and are absorbing all the vibrations, but the rubber on the inners are just hanging out in mid air and don't even touching anything. It's like you could take them out and it doesn't seem like it would make a bit of difference.
 
Robb2013 said:
A little off subject but how are those two smaller inner bushing supposed to work? The two outer ones are compressed in there and are absorbing all the vibrations, but the rubber on the inners are just hanging out in mid air and don't even touching anything. It's like you could take them out and it doesn't seem like it would make a bit of difference.
Click to expand...


According to a 1975 Norton advertisement: "Between tube and housing are four rubber bushings, the outer two of a soft composition to absorb the vibration, the inner two somewhat smaller and harder, to prevent extreme movements."

So, it seems the inner "floating" rubber bushings would only contact the tube under extreme conditions, acting as a movement limiter.
 
Anglophile said:
Robb2013 said:
A little off subject but how are those two smaller inner bushing supposed to work? The two outer ones are compressed in there and are absorbing all the vibrations, but the rubber on the inners are just hanging out in mid air and don't even touching anything. It's like you could take them out and it doesn't seem like it would make a bit of difference.
Click to expand...


According to a 1975 Norton advertisement: "Between tube and housing are four rubber bushings, the outer two of a soft composition to absorb the vibration, the inner two somewhat smaller and harder, to prevent extreme movements."

So, it seems the inner "floating" rubber bushings would only contact the tube under extreme conditions, acting as a movement limiter.
Click to expand...

Makes sense.
 
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