Rear drum problem

Hi David, If it isn't a tight fit, it will move. You will eventually end up with the scenario you started with.

exactly Kerinorton and what will happen is the bearing outer race will spin in the housing causing the housing to wear and you end up with a lip just under the circlip which the bearing will catch on when you try to push it out, giving you the same symptoms or scenario that you already encountered. that bearing should be a very tight fit.

OK - loctite red it is then. I dont think it will need a shim, but still need to probe it with feelers.

make sure the face the circlip bears on is clean and with no imperfections or it may give you false reading.

Here is a scenario I discovered with the EN1 civic gearbox. On very heavy rough use in revers gear etc, the bearing which held the [ cant remember now which shaft ] wore the circlip retainer into a knife edge, which eventually allowed the bearing to simply push right through the housing past the circlip using only the fingers. This was a design fault. There was no means of locking the circlip [ snap ring ] in place. Like I am saying with your drum, the circlip needs to be a tight fit. You need to have to tap it snugly into place.
The Honda problem was the bearing was retained by only the inward pressure of the circlip itself , in the groove of the bearing,. The bearing could go straight through the housing from both directions with hitting a stop of any sort. That housing where the bearing sat, was hardly any wider than the bearing.
[ And we know japs build the best cars in the world, but they have made mistakes as well , and generally they are good at fixing them. That why I would never buy a BMW. ] n

That's why the snap-ring retainer at the back of the Commando clutch, is held in place by a stepped washer which should fit very snuggly round the outside of that snap-ring.


You should now understand fully what we are talking about.

Dereck .

.009 feeler can barely get in and .010 can't.

Loctite has bearing retainer compounds that would be more appropriate than a thread locker for this.

maylar said:

Loctite has bearing retainer compounds that would be more appropriate than a thread locker for this.

Click to expand...

h

Good point! Since the bearing is reasonably snug when the hub is cold, you only need to prevent the bearing from spinning, not absorb radial loads.

Most likely, you will have to use brass for shim stock, as brass has the widest selection of thicknesses. A brass washer in the bottom of the bore will do the job, and does not have to fit with such exact niceties as it would if it were bearing against the relatively narrow circlip, nor does it have to be as hard as steel.


Slick

You might have to use a 10 thou shim as I suspect a 9 Thou one wont be available. Put the shim in first then the bearing. A good tap round the edge of the bearing will ensure it is fully seated. Fit the circlip and used a small tapered punch to ease the circlip into the grove.
Dereck

OK - I ordered a brass shim pack from RS that will likely last me a while.

But, all of the loctite retaining products are $$$. - like $70-100 for a small bottle!

Are there any less dear equivalent alternatives?

Hi David, I don't know the answer to that. They are all expensive. You could enquire about Chemtools products. Also Trademe
Dereck

gortnipper said:

OK - I ordered a brass shim pack from RS that will likely last me a while.

But, all of the loctite retaining products are $$$. - like $70-100 for a small bottle!

Are there any less dear equivalent alternatives?

Click to expand...

Go with red Loctite. I suspect (suspect means maybe, perhaps, no way to know for sure, etc) you are not going to get much Locttite of any sort in the space that exists between the bearing and a COLD hub. With minimal Loctite, breaking it loose at a future rebuild should not be too difficult.

Now here is your dilemma. If you heat the hub, apply Loctite to the bearing race, drop in the bearing, the excess Loctite will be squeezed out top and bottom of the bearing when the hub cools. If any of that excess gets in the bearing, it is toast. I know you said you had sealed bearings, so maybe you will get away with it.

OTH, if you drop in the bearing dry (no Loctite), there will be hardly any gap between the bearing race and the hub for Loctite to wick into after the hub cools. This assumes you will apply Loctite AFTER the hub cools with a syringe. Thus, my suspicion that not much Loctite will be able to get in there to give trouble at a future rebuild.

If you drop in the bearing dry, then wick in the Loctite BEFORE the hub cools, you have the same scenario as in paragraph 2 above.

I would do it this way: Heat hub, drop in bearing dry, allow hub to cool, then with a toothpick apply a drop or two of red Loctite into the ring that will exist between the bore and the radius of the outer race. Work the Loctite evenly around that ring. Then take your wife's hair dryer and heat the area. Heat will cure anaerobic Loctite quickly. This technique should (hopefully) provide a Loctite ring that will prevent the bearing from spinning, but will not offer too much resistance to removal at a future date.

Then, if you can wedge in the circlip having a ten thou shim as Dereck suggests, the shim in the bore BOTTOM as I suggest, the assembly should be sufficiently tight to resist bearing rotation, unless you run the bearing until it seizes, then nothing will hold it.

Slick

gortnipper said:

OK - I ordered a brass shim pack from RS that will likely last me a while.

But, all of the loctite retaining products are $$$. - like $70-100 for a small bottle!

Are there any less dear equivalent alternatives?

Click to expand...

I would stop at the nearest NAPA or big box auto store you might be able to find it in a small tube. It's been a while since I bought some but I'm I know it was not crazy expensive and I got a small tube not a big squeeze bottle.
Also note that the release temps on that is in the 400 degree range similar to red loctite.


EDIT: Just found it