Rapping on Maney 40 mm crank pulley?

I placed Maney 40 mm belt pulley on crank tapper for it to slip on about 1/2 way then hand wiggle another half of that and *light* hammer taps to get about 1/8 inch from seating about 1/16 from case face. I stopped short so still easy to pry off - when noticed there are no threaded holes to pull it back off like the 30mm Kenny Dreer sold. Before I get past another point of no return please fill me on removal method and tools. Does regular grabber claw jaw puller work w/o marring the small side plate edges?

hobot said:

I placed Maney 40 mm belt pulley on crank tapper for it to slip on about 1/2 way then hand wiggle another half of that and *light* hammer taps to get about 1/8 inch from seating about 1/16 from case face. I stopped short so still easy to pry off - when noticed there are no threaded holes to pull it back off like the 30mm Kenny Dreer sold. Before I get past another point of no return please fill me on removal method and tools. Does regular grabber claw jaw puller work w/o marring the small side plate edges?

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Drill and tap it for a puller -or you will be sorry when you need to remove it.

Ugh that is what I was afraid of, another trip to machinist delay. Hope to pry it off now while I still can before ionic bonds get best of me again.

I run a 40mm Maney system on my race bike, the front pulley came with the tapped holes.
As Jim says, drill and tap before fit up
REgards Mike

ugh I am not cut out for mechanics. Turns out my living room shop lamp cast a shadow on the dark part area but looked today part in hand - discovered it already has puller holes as provided by Maney out the box. i

hobot said:

ugh I am not cut out for mechanics. Turns out my living room shop lamp cast a shadow on the dark part area but looked today part in hand - discovered it already has puller holes as provided by Maney out the box. i

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PTO could mean 'power take-off' in relation to this cog, perhaps also in some cases 'please turn over'!
Ta.

as Bill Cosby used to say. " some people do the darndest things ".

Dereck

DO NOT use a claw pulley to remove a pulley. Assuming the engine pulley is CORRECTLY made it will have inner and outer guide plates and these have a specification and if INCORRECT will increase any wear of the edges of the belt because IF your belt system is manufactured and fitted correctly the belt will wonder across the engine pulley making LIGHT contact with the flanges when in use. IF the belt makes hard contact with only one pulley you have a system problem...just as you have if you notice a chain sprocket is polished on only one side of the teeth not that many would notice.........
To supply an engine pulley that is to be fitted to a tapered shaft without tapped holes with which to pull it off is rediculous. When I supply such to the friends I, very occasionally, make a belt system for I even supply the puller as part of the system!!
I understand there are light aircraft out there with the props fitted to a tapered shaft with just a big nut to hold them on in place, the taper taking all the load. Mind you the taper is probably only about 5 degrees or less and rather longer than that on the Norton crank but as everyone who has ever removed a Norton tapered crank sprocket / pulley knows only tooooo well when the taper FINALLY lets go you DO NOT have your leg or Manx tank etc in the line of fire as it flies across the garage with gusto......a lesson most people probably learn the very first time they do the job as I remember rather well.

Ah so J.M. when you can Snatch peddle out of hand you are able leave the compound -
Once you can Crack loose tappered crank fitting - you can dig deeper into more doo doo -

I just want to be a pilot not a mechanic but desparation to recover Combats - has forced me to greasy nasty rusty tool shattering, part destroying semi-expert dissmantler. I almost never put a puller or wrench on mower or motorcycle w/o hi heat first. Have broken 3 crank pullers, 2 cheap steering wheel pullers and factory roboust puller. First two just bent before relief but the robust Norton puller POPPED in half just watching it as I applied more heat before rapping on the puller shaft to shock surface grip. When works as advertised, After Restore- I get puller tuant then light cig with torch then aim torch on sprocket/pulley and it simply pops loose on its own w/o flying off. D/t major other major mechanical failures of everything supporting life, home, vehiciles, head spine limbs, Peel has been just over a decade delayed and moved into living room d/t the destructive decay forces of climate, animals and insects in shed so only attended to after some other rescure wore me down & blurry forcing self to move dream machine forward a bit- so my mental state is always expect the worst to be pleasantly surprised when it works as advertised.

I know all about belt drive issues the hard way so now know > start with new AMC sleeve bushes and do not fill with gear lube spanking wheelie prone sports bikes in tights for most an hour a go WOT 6000-7500 in lower gears... belts can take shot gun blast through the flats but if sides rubbed raw belts tend to unravel suddenly to pack up inside alternator...

I got my routine *Blank Staring Brit Iron State* just prior to the pulley test fit - as long prior had 5/16 thick alu crade + Maney cases holes drilled to interference fit aircraft 7/16 bolts, to fit perfect when cases/cradle test fit in frame, *after* grinding cradle and gb shell to accept bigger TTI gear box, sent to Ken Canaga Left Coast Racing to force internals together but on return cradle would not fit by ~1/2"' mis alignment of the r low bottom bolt, so hours of grinding and fitting juggling taking too much off engine oil passage or thin weak cradle bolt surround - to finaly get perfect fit again... but mood and blurred nerves to vistion - over looked puller holes placing pulley lightly on. I'm not equipped to make up a special with 750 Combat head on 920 jugs plud bent crank with too worn ends after all welded up and Nitrided.

Paralell twin, no tinkrin'

http://m.powersports.honda.com/model/st ... 2015/specs

No way am I taking on another cycle to crash&mangle into a rat cycle on top of me, especially a dangerous handling buzzy modern. I get plenty of private mails form other old cycle owners from 4 forums I have quit plus locals not on any forums with vintage Japan and American cycles &or newish elite brands of UK and Europe to know they suffer as much or worse wear outs and let downs as Commandos. D/t bad Norton factory parts and road events I have put like 40K miles on poor ole SuVee vs 15K total on 2 Combat2 over same period. I have too much history on many mechanical things, cranes, ultralight aircraft to sewer pumps & microscopes and people troubles- so look up to those it appeals too. I have crashed = taken down twice as much on SuVee and its recoveries than Combats. I look up to those who dont get depressed taking on or forced into more work. I think I have only one more invention on Peel before final assembly & may live to see it happen but yoose all may not last that long. See how Norton mechanics has turned the long lasting J.M. into a curmudgeon like me.