Quicker tank mounting

N

nonsense

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Feb 5, 2022
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I keep having to remove the gas (petrol) tank to get to carbs/ wiring, and undoing the four nuts everytime, while not hard, is a bit tedious. I was going to drill the studs to accept R clips, but figured I would ask here if anyone has any concerns in doing so. The main difference from nuts would be no clamping force between the rubbers and mounting plate; the lower rubber washer would be slightly loose, but I don’t see that being a problem. This is a roadster tank, if you think it matters.

Thanks!
 
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My fiberglass Roadster tank has only two nuts at the front and a large oring at the rear under the main frame tube to the knobs on the tank . Maybe you could use two wing nuts front and rear , till you have your carbs sorted ! .
 
I was shocked at how insecure my '75 CB750 tank appeared. Its' single fuel line is secured to the tap with one spring clamp. The rear of the tank has a rubber piece that's attached to the frame. It lifts and stretches over a flat tab on the back of the tank. At the front, there are two horizontal rubber bungs, sticking out either side of the frame. The tank has two U shape castings inside the tunnel, the U is open at the front, so the tank slides onto the rubber bungs. Slide the tank onto the rubber bungs and stretch the rubber over the rear tab, done. 2 seconds. Including the fuel line, less than 30 seconds to remove the tank.

No vibration or rubbing in use. Simple and easy. Maybe the vibration is different to the Norton. Would be interesting to try something similar, as I find the Commando tank a bit fiddly.

However, Honda could have learned something from Norton about the space for feeler guages to do valve clearances!
 
Mart UK said:
I was shocked at how insecure my '75 CB750 tank appeared. Its' single fuel line is secured to the tap with one spring clamp. The rear of the tank has a rubber piece that's attached to the frame. It lifts and stretches over a flat tab on the back of the tank. At the front, there are two horizontal rubber bungs, sticking out either side of the frame. The tank has two U shape castings inside the tunnel, the U is open at the front, so the tank slides onto the rubber bungs. Slide the tank onto the rubber bungs and stretch the rubber over the rear tab, done. 2 seconds. Including the fuel line, less than 30 seconds to remove the tank.
Click to expand...
I have a cb400 that’s the same way, I’ve found I don’t even have to remove the fuel line if the seat is off (which I think it has to be to remove the tank). Just pivot the tank 90deg and set it above the air box.

I don’t think anything quite so simple could be easily done to the Norton tank, but something quicker then the nuts would be appreciated.
Shelby-Right said:
My fiberglass Roadster tank has only two nuts at the front and a large oring at the rear under the main frame tube to the knobs on the tank . Maybe you could use two wing nuts front and rear , till you have your carbs sorted ! .
Click to expand...
I think I’m looking for a more permanent change, it’s just so much easier to get to everything without the tank. Removal makes head torquing and valve lash maintenance easier as well, and I’m sure I’ll come up with some other “improvements” that need the tank removed. The O ring at the back sounds nice, I might try that. I’m worried about wing nuts vibrating off (I’ve never seen any with nylock), With a lock washer it could be doable.
 
Short term until you think your need to remove the tank often is gone:
1) Don't bother with the rear nuts
2) Add another rubber washer to the front so that the nylock nut goes on by fingers to the plastic and then only wrench tighten one or two turns.

Long term:
1) Use 06.0622 instead of studs on the rear and slot the rear mounting bracket so you only need to loosen the nuts.
2) Make a small bracket to move the reflector down and forward. This helps a lot with the front nuts. This is the best picture I have of them installed. The reflector is completely out of the way but does not look out of place with the tank on.

Quicker tank mounting
 
nonsense said:
I have a cb400 that’s the same way, I’ve found I don’t even have to remove the fuel line if the seat is off (which I think it has to be to remove the tank). Just pivot the tank 90deg and set it above the air box.

I don’t think anything quite so simple could be easily done to the Norton tank, but something quicker then the nuts would be appreciated.

I think I’m looking for a more permanent change, it’s just so much easier to get to everything without the tank. Removal makes head torquing and valve lash maintenance easier as well, and I’m sure I’ll come up with some other “improvements” that need the tank removed. The O ring at the back sounds nice, I might try that. I’m worried about wing nuts vibrating off (I’ve never seen any with nylock), With a lock washer it could be doable.
Click to expand...
Could you add a large grommet to the front frame holes with say a grommet inner hole 7/16 then machine up a screw on "shaped " piece to push through the grommet, if you think the grommet might come out , I have made my own custom ones with suitable lips from neoprene and super glue , you can linish and lighty polish to make them look like real ones basically a three piece stack
 
Shelby-Right said:
Could you add a large grommet to the front frame holes with say a grommet inner hole 7/16 then machine up a screw on "shaped " piece to push through the grommet, if you think the grommet might come out , I have made my own custom ones with suitable lips from neoprene and super glue , you can linish and lighty polish to make them look like real ones basically a three piece stack
Click to expand...
I was actually considering 3D printing a rubber piece to stay on the bike, with a screw on barbed/ balled piece to push through and lock, I think similar to what you are describing. The rear of moto-guzzi tanks (or at least one) is attached like this, however the front attaches similar to the Honda, with cups that need to be pushed forward onto rubber pieces. I’m not sure I like the idea of nothing holding it down to the frame in the event of an accident, where I worry the pegs could pull out of a grommet
 
nonsense said:
I keep having to remove the gas (petrol) tank to get to carbs/ wiring, and undoing the four nuts everytime, while not hard, is a bit tedious. I was going to drill the studs to accept R clips, but figured I would ask here if anyone has any concerns in doing so. The main difference from nuts would be no clamping force between the rubbers and mounting plate; the lower rubber washer would be slightly loose, but I don’t see that being a problem. This is a roadster tank, if you think it matters.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Funnily enough I’ve been thinking the same for my 961 and Interstate. If you make the holes slightly shorter than the stacked height of the mounting rubbers, bracket etc., you should be able to press down on the tank so the holes become visible then pop the R clip through. That should give enough tension to keep the tank secure I reckon.
 
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cliffa said:
Funnily enough I’ve been thinking the same for my 961 and Interstate. If you make the holes slightly shorter than the stacked height of the mounting rubbers, bracket etc., you should be able to press down on the tank so the holes become visible then pop the R clip through. That should give enough tension to keep the tank secure I reckon.
Click to expand...
Maybe stamp out some EPDM foam 🤔 to give yourself something more compressible.
 
Tornado said:
Still amazes me how quickly this guy got his tank off as bike burned:

Click to expand...

One of the reason my Featherbed tank is not bolted down, the great fire of 82, able to pull the tank off once the fuel lines melted the tank came off, saved my Norton and till this day the tank sits on the rubber mounts and in 41 years hasn't come off while riding, sits nice and tight on the rubber mounts and the seat keep it in its place.

Ashley
 
ashman said:
One of the reason my Featherbed tank is not bolted down, the great fire of 82, able to pull the tank off once the fuel lines melted the tank came off, saved my Norton and till this day the tank sits on the rubber mounts and in 41 years hasn't come off while riding, sits nice and tight on the rubber mounts and the seat keep it in its place.

Ashley
Click to expand...
I watched that a while back , it took a long time for a fire extinguisher to arrive .
 
When mine went up I was on the bike and motor fired up, I was leaving my mate's place and he was yelling fire fire and I thought he was saying bye till the flame went up my left arm lucky I was wearing my leather jacket, no fire extinguisher and panic, the bike dropped and it was up in flames didn't take long for the fuel lines to melt and that's when the flame took off, but was able to pull the tank off and by that time my mate threw over a big tarp.
Damage was new paint job gone, seat melted, speedo glass and face destroyed and wiring melted.
Next day had the bike rewired, kept the charcoal paint job on the tank and put airfilters on, bike was going again but had to wait for the seat to be redone.
Lesson don't run volicity stacks without airfilters and make sure the new fuel tap didn't decide to leak.

Ashley
 
My Featherbed tank is held down by only a metal strap and a bungee cord.

Yes the bike went on fire and yes I closed the tap and removed the tank in a hurry.
 
Drill a hole through each tank stud for a small spring clip (p-clip?) like the ones used on trailer hitch pins. The hole would have to be in the right place so the rubbers are compressed slightly.
Or make new pegs that thread into the tank.
The tank has a lot of weight when full and could easily become a separate projectile in an accident if not well secured. (Also batteries.) It's on there good for a reason.
 
To me 4 nuts and 2 fuel lines to be disconnected for "servicing" is no real drama... imo....BUT....for 🔥
There are several small Extinguisher/Suppressors available on the market that preform very well...that could save your bike or one of your mates ....This one @320mm long im sure you can find somewhere to jamb it....
www.dne.co.nz

Fire Suppression - Drummond & Etheridge

www.dne.co.nz www.dne.co.nz
 
wing nuts instead of hex nuts? with the end of the stud drilled for a small R clip should the wing nut loosen.

Personally, dont have a problem with the existing set up, although I use plain nuts (rather than a nyloc) with a spring washer to keep them from loosening.
 
That
daveforty said:
wing nuts instead of hex nuts? with the end of the stud drilled for a small R clip should the wing nut loosen.

Personally, dont have a problem with the existing set up, although I use plain nuts (rather than a nyloc) with a spring washer to keep them from loosening.
Click to expand...
Wingnuts , Was a bit of a joke , you didn't quite get it . No problem .
 


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