question on offset crank

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Looking at old chat on offset crank.Is there any improvement with 90',180',or is it best to get 360' with no flywheel as such? I'mlooking to improve responsiveness on throttle,is the point of flywheel torque?engine braking?I know it's an old subject but need the advice in an easy to read reply.This bike is 850 mark3 and needs to be useful on the road.P.
 
Offset cranks are a gimmick and a waste of time, as are light flywheels for a bike that "needs to be useful on the road". A light flywheel will just make your idle more tempermental and give the bike a harder time in high gear dealing with head winds and hills.

If you want to improve responsiveness on throttle for the least amount of money then put a thin cylinder head gasket kit in it from Jim Schmidt engineering to bump the compression up to a maximum of 9.5:1.

If that is too boring, easy and cheap for you to believe it will work, then go ahead and spend the money to have the head milled, or to buy a set of Mr. Schmidt's steel rod and light piston kits that will get you close to but not over that same maximum compression ratio.

Done.
 
brokennorton said:
is the point of flywheel torque?engine braking?I know it's an old subject but need the advice in an easy to read reply.This bike is 850 mark3 and needs to be useful on the road.P.
Broken
The stock crank gave good torque for road use and engine braking. The engine just vibrated but the Isolastic system took care of this, if it is setup properly. I don't understand why you would use a offset crank on a commando. :roll: I think it would better serve the rider on the featherbed frame using the 850 engine.
Regards,
Thomas
CNN
 
Commando's have isolastics, so no need for non 360 crank, if you want less vibes below 2500 then fit Jim Schmidts light pistons and matching longer con-rods. And if you no longer have the cross over down pipes fitted and need more mid range put them back on and live with the breakages.
 
Many of those fitting non 360' cranks notice the isolastics are only good to isolate vertical plane orbitals not the buzz of horizontal secondary harmonics of off set cranks, but for sure they are smoothing in solid mounts if the valve train like annoyance don't bother ya. I was warned and warned by Brit Iron, NOC-UK and INOA member ship for over a year to avoid lighter flywheel in my Combat but a privateer talked me into it and very very pleased he did to point I using the same 4.5 lb less and 1/2" OD smaller flywheel in my 920 project. After realizing in amazment my ole Peel could out drag w/o wheelies the sports bikes to 90 mph we tried bench racing unloaded engine response. Poor inline 4's though bog on throttle snaps just off idle like our Cdo's do till about 1500 rpm, so I'd spot them 4000 to my 2000 starting rpm then snap wide open and see who'd get 5000 more rpm faster, which my warned against small port 2-1 light crank Combat always did 1st. They'd sound like vaarrRROOM while Peel went bBLAAP! Idled to 5-600 no problemo but lack of cam oil surfing speed and never had it stall pulling in clutch while rolling or shifting - which was big warning issue that was a non issue to Peel. Btw Peel in her sprinting prime was about 60 lb lighter than factory so extra advantage taking of her more responsive engine. My current factory Combat has more the common vaarRROOMM response and take some care not to bog on trhottle snaps down low, just like common Commandos are know for. The heavier flywheel does tend to stabilize more, ie: takes a tad more effort to tip bike angles, which I like for THE Gravel travel but not on paved fun flings. Less mass to accelerate means quicker sprints on power alone but depending on bike set up and pilot it may not give faster race track times, which implies to me to take advantage of lighter flywheel in handling ya got to get a bit crazier that common. Interesting the higher I geared my Peel the harder and longer she pulled in all the gears.
 
"If you want to improve responsiveness on throttle for the least amount of money then put a thin cylinder head gasket kit in it from Jim Schmidt engineering to bump the compression up to a maximum of 9.5:1."

THAT I can attest to... after learning my pitiful plodder '74 850 had only 8.5:1, I was stoked to find the thinner gaskets.
 
beng said:
Offset cranks are a gimmick and a waste of time, as are light flywheels for a bike that "needs to be useful on the road". A light flywheel will just make your idle more tempermental and give the bike a harder time in high gear dealing with head winds and hills.

If you want to improve responsiveness on throttle for the least amount of money then put a thin cylinder head gasket kit in it from Jim Schmidt engineering to bump the compression up to a maximum of 9.5:1.

If that is too boring, easy and cheap for you to believe it will work, then go ahead and spend the money to have the head milled, or to buy a set of Mr. Schmidt's steel rod and light piston kits that will get you close to but not over that same maximum compression ratio.

Done.
beng, on what do you base this statement regarding offset cranks? I've been interested in an offset crank for a Triumph 750 twin for some time and have done enough research and talked to at least one racer with an offset crank to feel that one would be an improvement over the 360* crank. A lot of Yamaha 650/750 guys also have gone to the offset crank to tame the 360 vibes. Granted, in an isolastic Commando the rider is isolated from the engine vibrations but the engine components aren't. For a standard, stock Commando, I probably wouldn't bother but if a guy had a solid mounted engine in a featherbed or custom frame it may be worth a look. I'm with you on the crank wt. even though hobot seems to have good results with a lighter, smaller diameter shaft. Light wt. reciprocating parts plus longer rods and an offset crank would be an intersting experiment and I know there are some Nortons out there with offset cranks but don't know of any running for some feedback. There are more than a few Triumphs and Yamahas running with offset cranks that swear by the conversion...any comments appreciated...Mark
 
search up < Norton offset crankshaft > for more scope from vendors and users to help make up your mind. Cam re phase is straight forward-ish but the new phased sparker can be troublesome it seems.
 
Thanks hobot, I'll search that and see what they say. I sure do like the Rody crank that SirEddys LSR is gonna run...Mark
 
marksterrtt said:
..any comments appreciated...Mark

I first read of (76 degree) cranks with the 'drain pipe Triumphs (iirc),the next was riding a Yamaha TRX850 when they were released which is a highly underrated motorcycle,the benefits of a 90 degree V Twin (L actually) with a compact block and cylinder angle allowing the front wheel to be closer to the crankshaft centreline.
One other benefit like the V is a piston in motion all the time ie when one is at TDC or BDC the other is mid stroke that in itself would make a difference with lighter rotating mass and stored kinetic energy compared to a standard two up,two down crank.
Of course excess weight removal on a bike like a Norton that does not have a tunable external flywheel can lead to some of the symptoms mentioned but I personally never had trouble with idle (Ducati beveldrive) with some 2.2 kgs out of the crankshaft itself and another 2 or more from the outer starter flywheel.
I have a hunch it would be the same with a offset parallel twin crankshaft.

I am not sure the financial cost of it to a road going Commando would be worth it and it would remove what essentially a Commando is.
A offset Triumph and Norton ride comparison would be interesting all the same.
 
If you arrange the throttle slides to shut completely , with no flywheel & high compression , if you shut the throttle the engine can stop completely
so you go off the road backwards . which is safer . :x

A infinate flywheel would take forever to redline , then shut throttle , it'd never stop . :shock:

Therefore , a few pounds of the flywheel gets it snappier , without being entirely instantaeneous .

The Offset is a completely differant issue virtually . Though the rotational impulses are interrelated , so perhaps a lighter flywheel ( 10% ? ) for similar response . The ADVANTAGE is the the IRREGULAR Pulse Transmission should increase traction on doubtfull surfaces .

question on offset crank


as fireing impulses on some pictures indicate . This is where the Olde massey furgesons had better traction when it was scarce ,
in comparison to the parralel twins. Therefore they ' Hook Up ' out of the turns , rather than walking the back wheel out .
In certain track conditions .

Also theoretically , the crank is less stressed , therefore other things too . Like a canter rather than a trot .
 
In my opinion, based on having ridden two Norton twin motors of 500 cc with 90 degree cranks in featherbed frames - is that for this purpose they are a good option. Vibration is reduced considerably.

However Jim Schmitz now markets lighter pistons and different rods which may be a cheaper and more straightforward way of achieving the same outcome.

For an engine mounted in an isolastic Commando frame the advantages would not be so clear. But I add I have no experience of larger engines in Commando frames.

John
 
:shock: Things to consider when going with an offset crank:
The cost of the crank conversion
The cost of the cam conversion
You will need a Power Arc or equivalent ignition system. I have seen modified Boyers set up for an offset crank in a featherbed-framed Norton.
If it’s going into a commando frame then money could be spent elsewhere. IMHO
I would rather put dollars to the Lightweight pistons and rods from JS if it were going in a Commando frame as mentioned above. I am rebuilding a 74 850 engine and would have used his setup for it if I needed new pistons. There was only 0.001" out of tolerance with the bores so I just put new rings to the build.
But if you want to play then Knock yourself out and have at her. It just will not sound like a Commando anymore :shock:
Cheers
Thomas
CNN
 
Yes, good responses and thank you all for the input. I understand the cost issues but if you need a cam anyway then that cost is the same and the ignitions are also available so no issue there. The only decision is whether one wants to experiment and spend the money on the crank and perhaps better rods and pistons. Johnm's personal experience on 2 offset cranked 500's was telling, considerably less vibration he said. My original response was to 'beng' in regards to his stating to original poster that offset cranks were a 'gimick' and I was wondering if 'beng' had any experience to share since this would be helpful to me and anyone following this post. I was hoping for actual experiences with offset cranks in Nortons as I understand all the considerations but have little personal 'been there, done that' revelations. Keith Martin shared that from past experience offset cranks made no more power and stroked Triumphs (Norton stroke?) shook like crazy. But would an offset crank tame the Norton shakes...or a stroked (89mm) Triumph?

I'll search per hobot's suggestion, thanks for the thoughts and responses and hope the posts generated were of some benefit to original poster...Mark
 
The crank processing will cost about 50% more than plain Jane.
The cam processing will cost about 200% more.
The ignition adapting about 300% over wasted sparker and maybe a pair of em.
Review the Crankshaft porn thread as some offsets and feedback there.
Geoff Ed Collins may be the most active last few yrs supply offset cranks.

https://www.google.com/#output=search&s ... =p&pdl=300
 
marksterrtt said:
beng said:
Offset cranks are a gimmick and a waste of time, as are light flywheels for a bike that "needs to be useful on the road". Done.

beng, on what do you base this statement regarding offset cranks?

First of all the thread starter was looking for ways to improve throttle response, for that an offset crank is definitely a waste of time and money compared to the thin head gasket, it is no contest.

Second John M hit the nail on the head, modern light pistons made this modification obsolete. If you want to get vibes down it is much easier to just buy a set of rods and pistons and throw them in the engine.

Third, comparisons with a Yamaha engine are useless as it is a completely different engine especially in one important way, it has it's crank supported in the center. What does this have to do with offsetting the Norton crankshaft?:

From an engineering point of view, the Norton crank is a steel beam supported at each end. It has four bends in it to get the beam out to where the connecting rod big ends are, it's stroke. This adds the length of the stroke to the beam, and the longer you make a beam without increasing it's cross section the more it will deflect when acted upon by some force, whether it is a boy jumping up and down on it like a trampoline, or if you attach a counterweight on it and spin it, the beam has to try to hold the spinning weight in place.

When you offset the journals, you can see that you are adding more length to the steel beam that is the crank, you are making it less stiff! You still have to balance it, because it is essentially two vertical singles linked together, and it is still going to be out of balance by whatever balance factor you use, but now because you have made it longer the flywheel is going to move around even more the higher you rev it, and of course a longer beam between two points is weaker than the shorter one as far as bearing weights or any other force that is trying to bend it, compression and combustion pressure etc. is that what you wanted?

So in a street bike ridden in an uninspiring way, the offset crank is going to trade one large slower frequency vibration, for two smaller amplitude vibrations, or because they are linked together they will be felt as the same energy but at a higher frequency. If that change in frequency is more comfortable to a street rider then great, maybe he has won? But if he puts in high compression and runs the engine at high rpms without increasing the cross section of the steel beam/crank, or decreasing the distance between the points that support it, as in the case of a V-twin, then his engine will destroy itself much more quickly than the engine with the shorter and more stiff 360 degree crank, which would be the stiffest possible configuration for use in the Norton engine design, the shortest crank.

I said it here before, the strongest custom crank for a Norton twin will be one that has it's heaviest point closest to the point where the power is taken from it. The flywheel needs to be moved from the center of the beam to the end close to the PTO. This is because each time energy is taken from the central flywheel through the PTO, the inertia of the flywheel tries to twist the crank into two pieces. This puts an incredible load on the crank during performance use, and sets the flywheel twisting and flopping around like a beached carp. Because the spinning flywheel is not attached to the beam/crank at it's center but on one edge, it will rotate on the axis of the rod journals, as well as try to spin on other axises than the crank center-line(!).

If the crank only had enough weight along it's length for the necessary counterweight, which would be lessened with modern light rods and pistons, and the balanced flywheel weight necessary for smooth operation was moved to the point of the PTO as on the 1954 works Norton Manx single racers, then when the clutch was dropped or power was taken from the crank for any reason, that energy would only have to travel the very short distance from the flywheel to the sprocket, and that energy would now be taken from the Center of the flywheel instead of having to be taken off-center at the axis of the rod journal, creating no twisting forces besides that along the axis of the crank center-line.

Looking at the Norton crank/beam and it's poorly located central and offset-held flywheel in this light, one can see that the offset cranks being marketed as cure-alls for the flaws of British parallel twins is at best out of ignorance, at worst out of greed and vanity. They will not cure any problem, just change one problem, and make others worse.
 
beng bang boom, your description expanded my head on our crank shaft animations. I've had a terrific insight into this crank flex issue and most of it is d/t the inertia of the piston jerk down from TDC, especially the one on the intake stroke, ugh. JSM kit sure decreased the crank deflection loads. Next real advance will have to come from new materials and construction methods if sticking with the external appearance of Cdo engine. Quasi crystalline ceramic with graphine laminations in stressed ripples for self activation of electron cloud flux into embeded microcapcitors that actively deform against distortions. Get Jim Schmidts Race Manual for more cheap-ish DIY responsiveness. There is a Boyah secret trick in his wisdoms.

A cheap-ish ReSponsive 'Combat' I enjoyed, nay lived to die for a few seasons, was 4.5lb lighter 1/2" tighter flywheel, 10-ish CR no base plate just real FlameRing gasket crank, 3 1/2" holes vented to TS volume + Krank PCV, 2S cam, 28.5 mm standard head/valves, TotalSeal rings, .0055+ bore gap knurled pistons, 2>1> Dunstall megaphone with ~2" outlet and about everything cryogenic tempered then dry friction coated, OO LA LA! Loose some mass and link up isolastics and collar the swing arm then see how ya and strangers view your ole clunker...

Matt some of your shots like this one feel like punches in the groin to me. Plug in the above on that sort of surface YeeHawww, hold my drink and watch this...
question on offset crank
 
A light flywheel on a Norton should improve it's longevity for high-performance use, but it may not improve high performance in all situations. C.R. Axtell and other tuners experimented with taking flywheel weight off the center of the crank on British parallel twins and adding it to the ends of the crank next to it's support bearings. Flywheel weight is important in racing in more than one circumstance, in high gear it holds a reserve to fight wind and elevation changes, and it also smooths the engine power curve to help the rider control traction during acceleration etc..

So a light flywheel might help someone out with one problem but it might create others depending on how the engine is used. One old dirt tracker I know who raced a trackmaster Triumph back when it was current, said he liked the heaviest crank he could find. He built the engine for more power, but if he did not have the flywheel to smooth the power coming out of turns then there were traction problems.

In the end trying to squeeze Japanese Four or Ducati V power out of the much poorer Norton engine design might be a useful distraction for some people for whatever reason, but it will always use either a lot of parts or a lot of money and time.

The sweet spot for vintage British parallel twins is to just put them together to run as good as they can within their mechanical limits, just enough compression to do the job but not bend the crank or overheat it, and optimizing the cam, intake and exhaust tuning to make the most torque under 6500 rpm, where it's design can operate with a minimum of distress.

So just a nicely tuned and optimized, mostly stock engine. Instead of changing the Norton twin to compete with modern machinery, change your mind to fit the Norton twin as it is, and put your time and energy into enjoying what it has to give and has given many for decades, simplicity and competence as daily transportation and sane sport riding.
 
beng said:
The sweet spot for vintage British parallel twins is to just put them together to run as good as they can within their mechanical limits, just enough compression to do the job but not bend the crank or overheat it, and optimizing the cam, intake and exhaust tuning to make the most torque under 6500 rpm, where it's design can operate with a minimum of distress.

So just a nicely tuned and optimized, mostly stock engine. Instead of changing the Norton twin to compete with modern machinery, change your mind to fit the Norton twin as it is, and put your time and energy into enjoying what it has to give and has given many for decades, simplicity and competence as daily transportation and sane sport riding.

+1 on that statement.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
Oh poo I want more torque per mass than them fancy pants foreign modern appliances can deliver and a touchy throttle that sets wheel spin to a set rpm to wait an instant for light crank re-hook to nail it more upright on tire patch than can take it better than them buzzy balloon tires things. But Peel is not really much of a real Norton left so what works for her and me don't really apply to real Nortons like my factory Trixie, which is plenty smooth and fast for sane thrills w/o spills. For some reason if I keep Trixie spun up in lower gears on THE Gravel she don't skip around on her tires as much. I assume its the flywheel gryo helping as wheel speeds the same in higher gears that gets a bit too loosey goosey for comfort.
 
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