I've read that to facilitate easier starting the MK3 kicker can be fitted to the earlier 850's. It's a little longer and gives a bit more leaverage. I'm a bit of a light weight and my 850's engine is pretty healthy. Sometimes that damn kicker just doesn't want to move. Always starts in 1 or 2 kicks but a little more mechanical advantage would be nice. Is this a worthwhile mod? And no, I'd never ever go to electric start so switching to a MK3 is not in the cards.
question on kickstart lever for early 850
- Thread starter lrutt
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the MK3 has more offset to clear the control's but is NOT going to help in the hard to kick part. the best way to fix this is with a belt drive with an overdrive ratio. you will need to also change the final drive ratio to compensate for the primary change but it will also be a LOT easier on the gearbox.
windy
windy
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Bill, how much of difference is there with the OD belt drive system you mention? What is the downside to this mod?
norville offers several ratio's to choose from. as for a down side I guess you could overdrive to much that you could not get a small enough counter shaft sprocket to get your overall gearing back to stock (21/42) butt all in all it is a win win with a decrease in torque into the gearbox, less strain on the output side with the smaller sprocket and easier kick starting. plus you get a lighter primary drive.
windy
windy
Just to confirm - I've just fitted a Mk3 kickstart to my Mk2A - yes it does give slightly better clearance of the exhaust (only by a small amount though) but as far as leverage is concerned I offered-up my original kickstart against the new Mk3 unit and I'm damned if I can see any real difference in length etc. The only thing I did notice is that when I fitted the new kickstart was how worn the splines on the old unit were - even when the fixing bolt was tightened as hard as I dare the thing still wobbled slightly on the shaft - with the new pedal I only had to lightly pinch the bolt for it to be a rock-solid fit.
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My Mk I came with a Racing Spares lever on it, which was worn to the point that the footpeg was no longer horizontal, making the start while on the bike almost impossible.
The Mk III lever is about 3/4" longer and offset about 1/2" from the RS lever.
For me, it was a very positive upgrade.
The Mk III lever is about 3/4" longer and offset about 1/2" from the RS lever.
For me, it was a very positive upgrade.
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ludwig said:
True, but the RS lever was 3/4" shorter than the Mk III lever, too, which works out to a 10% difference. I also didn't like the fact that the RS lever didn't fold tight to the body of the bike, meaning it would poke my calf unless I rotated the lever back about 15 degrees, which in turn meant kicking from the side of the bike as the kick stroke would go past bottom vertical. Changing just the 'pin' wouldn't work either, as the Racing Spares crank and the Norton crank have the stops arranged opposite to each other, so parts are not interchangeable. As long as I had to replace crank, pin, and rubber, I was best off going with the Mk III assembly, at about $170.
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