PW3 Cam timing

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Dyno Dave makes a handy crank end time wheel wigget attacher

PW3 Cam timing

PW3 Cam timing
 
illf8ed said:
lcrken said:
This is really testing my memory, but I think I once did it by using a rubber expansion plug from the local hardware store. It was just the right size to fit inside the sleeve nut that holds the alternator on. I think I had to make a stepped washer to reduce the size of the hole in my degree wheel to take the smaller stud on the plug.

Ken
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This is one of the thoughts I had. Didn't know where to find the rubber plug.

Thanks
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I think I got it at an auto parts store (freeze plug repair piece), but it could also have been from Home Depot. That was 20 years ago or so, and memory is a bit dim.

Ken
 
I don't know why David took me under his wing so much a decade.3 ago but i ended up with one his few time wheel adaptors and one of his first clutch seals [on 2nd Combat now] and he saved Peel's cases discovering a microscopic crack that lead to others and then one of my worse times being a brutal mechanic. I'm a pilot not a wrencher so found a spacer on the crank end and magnet holding was way more my speed, so Dyno holder is available to lend out extended periods. Once you've degree'd crank and knife edge marked TDC and proper total advance you never need time wheel again for that particular engine's life.
 
Might be worth lifting the needles up a notch. Did mine about a week ago & it is going really well now. Pulls hard up to the red line in 2nd & 3rd. It has taken over 400 miles for my engine to free up though after rebuilding.
 
Hi
Cant remember the site at the moment but it does a degree disc on line. You download it once you have adjusted it to size.
I made mine fit the front belt drive pulley but you can also make one to suit your rotor. Stick it on, turn the engine over on the dead stop & make your own mark for tdc & mark the alternator/case then mark your 29/31 degrees.
Chris
 
I bought some of those rare earth neodymium strong magnets with a hole in the center on eBay and bolted one to an aluminum degree wheel made by Motion Pro. Then just stuck it on to the end of the crank. A little bit of fiddling to get it centered but pretty simple.
 
Flo said:
Might be worth lifting the needles up a notch. Did mine about a week ago & it is going really well now. Pulls hard up to the red line in 2nd & 3rd. It has taken over 400 miles for my engine to free up though after rebuilding.
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May play with larger main jets in the 932 Amals. I believe I have 230 in there now which is standard for combat spec. Needle position has no affect at wide open throttle. Cam and ignition timing are where they should be. Tappet clearance also to spec. Head has new black diamond valves, guides, seats and springs so can eliminate that.
 
Hi, I use the pw3 cam in my racer for many years, this year I advanced the timing by 5°and I´m VERY SATISFIED with
the gain of torque. I have open megaphones on the bike, compression ratio is 10:1.

Christian
www.gearhead-racing.com
 
I think you can advance the cam in most commandos until the exhaust gets louder and you lose power. My 850 cam is advanced about 12 degrees, however it does have a two into one exhaust. The timing on the inlet is OK, however the exhaust closing point is silly - still works OK. Makes me wonder how many guys have provision for fine variable adjustment of the cams in their race motors ? I usually try to optimize everything about my bike by trying different things while using a bit of judgement based on what has worked elsewhere.
 
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