Proper way to change the OIL

Hello to all!!

I've been getting conflicting opinions from shops and riders on the best way to change the engine oil. Can anyone clarify the best step by step process to changing the oil.

I'm under the assumption that I only need to change the Oil from the OIl lug under the engine, next to the center stand. My Brother on the other hand insists on draining it at the Oil tank as well.

Also, How many quarts of Oil is standard to fill after I drain it.

I know this is a very elementary question but I feel like I've been changing the OIl incorrectly.

Many Thanks in advance!

Brian

it depends how often you change your oil but if you do it only every other year or so you should not only drain but also clean your tank You ll be amazed what muck stays in after draining
also when changing oil and filter ,leave your filter off and kick until CLEAN oil is comming out of the oilfilterhousing Again you ll be surprised what dirt will show .
By kicking it you get rid off the dirty oil in the crank

also when changing oil and filter ,leave your filter off and kick until CLEAN oil is comming out of the oilfilterhousing

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This is one of the better recommendation I've seen posted here. Maybe it's already being done by others, but it's new to me. Thanks.

All good advise.
I start w/ draining the oil tank, you can catch 2 quarts in an old 1 gallon jug w/ a funnel no need to remove tank.
Next I drain the sump from underneath the engine.
Lastly, I remove the filter again use a pan under motor and filter as some still lurks inside the engine and filter.
You could take a cup full of new oil after draining and replacing oil tank and sump plugs and work it through the system
till it drains clean oil at the filter location.
If you have never removed and cleaned the oil tank screen do so and replace the two aluminum washers w/ the new style copper
washers to avoid leaks. This will not void your warranty!
And lastly inspect the oil tank at the base for any signs of cracks.
I use 40 wt Castrol for riding in spring,summer and fall in Penna.
She hibernates in the winter, I have an electraglide to abuse for that.
I check the oil circulation before riding and change each season whether I do 600 miles or less.
MarshalNorton
Happy Motoring :mrgreen:

PalmerNorton said:

I'm under the assumption that I only need to change the Oil from the OIl lug under the engine, next to the center stand. My Brother on the other hand insists on draining it at the Oil tank as well.

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As these engines are "dry sump" then most of the oil should be in the oil tank, therefore logically you need to drain the oil from the oil tank, and not the sump?

However, if the oil has had time to drain down to the sump, (as it will do over time) there is going to be a certain amount of oil in the sump, and in any case the sump strainer (large hexagon unless it's a '72-'73 750 model in which case it won't have a strainer?) should be cleaned at the same time, so whatever oil is in the sump will drain when the strainer is removed, so the answer is drain both the oil tank and the sump, clean the sump strainer, the oil tank strainer and as recommended give the oil tank a clean out too, and fit a new spin-on filter ('72-on models or unless the filter kit has been fitted to an earlier model?).

PalmerNorton said:

Also, How many quarts of Oil is standard to fill after I drain it.

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You really ought to have access to a manual, even when doing these fairly straightforward maintenance tasks such as changing the oil, as it would give you all this basic information (and a lot more besides). Online manual> http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repai ... mmando.pdf

Refill the oil tank using the level marks on the dipstick, rather than just tipping in a set amount.

The system should take approximately 3 US quarts/2.8 litres/liters of oil, but only fill the tank to halfway between the low and high marks on the dipstick, start the engine and run it for a few minutes, then re-check the level on the dipstick.

Never over-fill the oil tank, only fill it to about halfway between the high and low marks, and always start the engine and run it for a few minutes before checking and topping up the oil level.

And don't forget to change the gearbox oil, fork oil and brake fluid (if appliccable?)!

For what it's worth, I use a vacuum oil drain system that essentially 'sucks' the oil out of the oil tank. It's much less messy than trying to use the drain plug. I then drain the sump.

Here's a picture of the system that I use (It costs about $40.00):

There are many sources for manuals - riders manuals and shop manuals - online or copies or originals. The information you require is in there. MarshalNorton has it right and LAB has further clarified it. Change your oil and be done with it.

++++++Edit:
I re-read this and I'm sorry if I may have come across a bit harsh... My point is that the basic info is in the manual. People have added their own tricks and tweaks, and this may be the source of some of the conflicting information. But if you start with the manual then you can then compare it with what others are doing and decide if it makes sense to you.

Russ

Get a empty plastic bottle of coke or similar (2 litre size) and cut the bottom off it. Leaving the screw top on, you can use this as a funnel and oil catcher when you empty the oil tank. As the Meerkat on the telly ad says, 'simples'.

Stops all the oil going every where, or worse, is like me the funnel you had, filled up quicker than it emptys!