project

hi glen
just cheked whith a supplier
the cylinder heads are for standard 84 mm bore ported to 1 1/8"
black shadow spec
will pick them up tomorrow whith other bits

10:43 am local time
graham
 
made some progress on the tank. Top skin is done but needs polishing and a lot of work fairing up the weld areas.

Here it is with tank and seat both laying loose on there. Still a bit of tuning to do where the tank and seat skirt meet, they need to a little width adjustment. That can be accomplished when the tank bottom and inside is fitted and welded to the top skin.

Im hoping to get this balloon tired corner cripple on the road sometime this spring.


project



project
 
The Oberon bar end signals from Blue Streak Racing showed up today. What a treat to install a part that I don't have to make first. Near instant gratification!

They are very well made, super bright and with a little adapter allow for the clamp on bar end mirrors to fit on. The signals have a lens + amber 10 LED circuit board fore and aft . Being at the widest point on the bike they are very visible.
I'm also mounting a 140 flexible red LEd under the rear cowl lip. This is split into two 70 led sides . With a self cancelling Module
(Penta Star XP) the rear leds will seve as turn signal, running lights and brake lights, all by wiring into the three way module, which is about the size and weight of a small chocolate bar.

There is a 20 amp hour 410CCA Lithium Ion battery in the rear cowl, weighs just 2.5 pounds and will run the electric starter that Herve Hamon is developing. There are some existing starters that are OK for a standard motor but wont cut it with the increased displacement and CR. Herve is testing his unit on his own 1300cc Vincent race motor over the next few months. Herve and his Brother Paul own Alton.

project
 
Worntorn,

Since following your build on here I have been wondering if you know Paul Brodie.
He lives in Langley BC and also builds specials from scratch.
Many years ago he built a Vincent special using modern cycle parts, got it to a rideable/functional state but didn't really finish it off.
He's subsequently built a spine frame for an Aermacchi racer and spine frame for an extinct Excelsior engine he built from photographs.
His website is www.flashbackfab.com
 
There is a 20 amp hour 410CCA Lithium Ion battery in the rear cowl, weighs just 2.5 pounds and will run the electric starter
Click to expand...

Potent light battery for you big beast. How are these recharged, on or off bike?
I'm going with a string of LEDs on my little special for several reasons, can't wait to be dazzled by yours.
 
Seeley, yes I do know Paul. He sold his Vincent before I bought my first one, so I dont know him well.

He is a very talented welder and fabricator and was the founder of Brodie mountain bikes, real high end rides.

His experience with his Vincent was just about dead opposite mine. He will freely admit that he had neither funds nor the ability at the time to properly build the engine, so it was entirely unreliable for him.

A friend of mine owns the bike now.

Hobot, these ligtweight race batteries get charged from the alternator just the same as with a common lead acid job.
Aside from the advantages of light weight and tiny size for a given amount of power, the maker also states that these batteries can be left without charge for a full year and will only lose 10%of their stored power. One more advantage is that they can be mounted any which way.


Glen
 
Glen. Just happened to stumble on your project post as Vincents are in another stadium than I play in. Ok Now I'm with ya on that type Li chemistry, brain blanked out but have read the ads and in my Peel plans too but only 4 ah range as no electric commensor involved. Hope yours slaps ya silly with its lightened big bore behavior. Pro = for-ward, Ject =-aimed.
 
Top notch all the way, that is shaping up to be a stunner. I like the turn signals and, well everything 8)

Jean
 
Thanks Jean.

i moved the rear sets down three inches and remounted them today. The bike is very comfortable to sit on, fits like a glove.

One of the best things Ive done was to spend an afternoon sitting on various new bikes at the local Yamaha/Triumph dealership.

They had quite a number of new bikes in as well as a number of tradeins including two gsxrs. I found the riding position on all of the Japanese sport bikes to be very uncomfortable. The Triumphs, on the other hand, were quite comfy. Prior to this I had planned to set the bike up much like a Gsxr as far as ergonomics were concerned.
After sitting on all the bikes I rethought that idea and opted for numbers similar to the Triumph Daytona. The seat is a NOS item for a 2001 Daytona. It had the right shape to fit the frame rails as I had already made them. It turns out to be a really comfortable seat as well, I think even a little more comfy than the new Daytona I sampled.

It would be awful to do all this work only to endup with a bike that is torture to ride!


Glen
 
Yes, and me. I built a TT2 replica, ok in the hills but getting there and back it's the most uncomfortable torture implement I've ever had the misfortune to ride! Graeme
 
Very nice work. When are you going to powder coat the frame??? ha ha. Like I said before too bad you are not closer to Edmonton!!!
 
Thanks

Yep, the painting wasnt much, just two strips of black on the wheels and black on the fork crown. Will need to buy a big bottle of Mothers aluminum polish for maintenance tho!

Discovered a minor goof up today. The chain clearance over top the swing arm cross tube is a bit tight. The solution is to fit a 22 tooth countershaft sprocket instead of the standard 21 tooth that is on there. To keep the overall ratio the same the back sprocket will get changed for a bigger one as well. This will lift the chain a little plus Ill need to put the swing arm back in the mill to machine in a little flat where the chain runs and maybe fit a delron slide there.

Glen
 
Its pretty common for long travel dirt bikes to have a chain rub plate+side guides on top the swing arm. Harleys also use a wide variety so maybe as a back up - keep in mind. I'm going to have to contain the chain on my long travel Commando to miss oil hose above and swing arm below, so will have the rub plate on bottom and a steel roller across the top. Steel roller may mount on frame, when I get to that part of project, gotta have tranny build 1st. I'd sure look into clear anodizing finishes with that much gleam going on.
 
I was strongly considering some kind of clearcoat at least for the tank and rear cowl until a friend had his done. The job was done nicely enough but I don't care for the look of plastic over polished aluminum. Then I read various horror stories of clearcoat finishes peeling, yellowing, getting scratched and so on. Not an easy job to get the clearcoat off when it goes bad apparently.

On this bike a fair bit of the polished is Stainless steel. Now that it is polished, it should be almost zero maintenance. So some of the time I might have spent attending to frame paint can be spent polishing aluminum I suppose.

Even with polished aluminum, on my other bikes I find that once it is nicely machine polished it's not all that hard to maintain it with a soft cloth and some liquid aluminum polish. There again, if the tank and cowl were painted there would be maintenance to keep that clean and waxed, so is it really that much more work to keep the polished aluminum up? I guess I'll find out!

Glen
 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/c ... polish.php

Instead of mothers, try this stuff... it's awesome, and comes in a huge can that will last and last. I got some for xmas from my dad as he swears by it, so I took it to the Norton shop here afterwards and we took an old primary cover that was in very bad shape and this stuff made it look like new with only using a rag. Now I am waiting to use my buffer with it to see if I can signal the space station with my bike later!!!
 
I had a can of that for a while, it works well. So well It grew legs one day.

We used simichrome when I was at Cessna, it also works well.
 

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