Problem I Haven't Seen Before

marshg246 said:
Fast Eddie said:
Reed valve breather is a must do IMHO. Either crank case or sump, but def one or t’other.

FE & Matt are now on my S-List :)

The bike is FINALLY more-or-less done have had its shakedown and little fixes. After the first ride, a puddle of oil formed on the floor - hadn't dropped any since I rebuilt the engine. On banjo was slightly leaking so I tightened it up and tried again - another puddle, but smaller. Absolutely cleaned everything and tightened all oil connections - found none loose. Another run and there were drips on the gearbox - that when I noticed the drip on the bottom of the air cleaner.

The reed valve breather connects to the breather pipe at the top of the oil tank. The internal oil tank breather pipe that runs into the air cleaner ends just across from the engine breather connection. Start wet sumped and oil is shot directly from the engine breather to the open end of the oil tank breather! Fills the tube and then runs into the air cleaner were it slowly drips out.

Now I have to find another way to connect the engine breather to the oil tank - Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
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I found the other type of square oil tank (engine breather into top of tank, not into froth tower) and won the auction for $14 + $14 shipping. Fairly ugly but came out fine once blasted and painted. Of course, lots of finished bike had to come apart to install it. It's all back together again. Now I'm waiting for another nice day to re-test the bike - hopefully I'm done with it!

Moral: Don't install a sump reed valve in a square oil-tank Commando unless you plan to change the tank or modify it!

I really, really hope this is my last entry in this thread - I am sick of this beautiful 69S.
 
Have you still got the early crank ? Where the rotor slot is, is of no consequence to me, I machine the extension off anyway. If you want sell it, I might be interested in buying it - as long as ithe flywheel has not been drilled to rebalance it
THe bike you have, has probably been developed to give better performance. The timing marls are of no importance when you are serious about tuning.
All this stuff about counting rollers on the timing chain and using dots and timing marks is nonsense. You need a degree disc and a means of finding TDC.
 
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Most guys who ride on public roads do not fang their bikes, so tuning marks are good enough. If you want to go quicker, the fine tuning can make the motor's performance more weather dependent.
 
acotrel said:
Have you still got the early crank ? Where the rotor slot is, is of no consequence to me, I machine the extension off anyway. If you want sell it, I might be interested in buying it - as long as ithe flywheel has not been drilled to rebalance it
THe bike you have, has probably been developed to give better performance. The timing marls are of no importance when you are serious about tuning.
All this stuff about counting rollers on the timing chain and using dots and timing marks is nonsense. You need a degree disc and a means of finding TDC.
Click to expand...
I have it, can't imagine the shipping cost to you. I can't get to it until I have help (recent hip replacement). Next time I'm in the shop I'll take pictures.

The bike was put together by an idiot - thankfully he didn't try to run it - pistons in wrong sides among other things.
 
acotrel said:
Have you still got the early crank ? Where the rotor slot is, is of no consequence to me, I machine the extension off anyway. If you want sell it, I might be interested in buying it - as long as ithe flywheel has not been drilled to rebalance it
THe bike you have, has probably been developed to give better performance. The timing marls are of no importance when you are serious about tuning.
All this stuff about counting rollers on the timing chain and using dots and timing marks is nonsense. You need a degree disc and a means of finding TDC.
Click to expand...
The flywheel has more drill holes than I've ever seen in a Norton crank. Also, the sprocket keyway is an absolute mess.
 
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