Primary Puzzle (2010)

Mine rotor is fairly flush with the stator on the outside. I think others have found that the 'flushness' is not critical for output. But you do need the shims and the cupped spacer to keep things from hitting the sprocket key, as I remember from just doing it yesterday.

Dave
69S

If you hold the rotor up to the crank sprocket I think you will find that it would pinch the chain without those spacers in there. The alignment question has been addressed in some other threads and has it's proponents but I think Dogt is right in that the measured output was not greatly affected by some misalignment.

Russ

PS-yes I have now had a cup of coffee

rvich said:

I am not selling this as a good idea. That will be somebody else's job. This is just to provide information in the event it is usefull to somebody else! The dimensions of the washers are 2" O.D. (51mm), and 3/4" I.D. (actually about .765 or 19.5mm)

My last question is whether or not this is one of the fabled self destructing rotors?

thanx!
Russ

Click to expand...

Supporting your rotor with two of those belleville washers is always a good idea for both type rotors (early type rotor or later welded type rotor).
To true up the front side of the rotor you do need a lathe.

What type of rotor you carry depends on the serial number on the front side (Russ in your case the number is probably already turned of to fit the belleville washer). The early type rotor (until 1978) serial number end ....2006 the later welded type (from 1979) end ....2298.
If your bike carries the early type rotor fitting these belleville washers is highly recommended!

nortonspeed said:

What type of rotor you carry depends on the serial number on the front side (Russ in your case the number is probably already turned of to fit the belleville washer). The early type rotor (until 1978) serial number end ....2006 the later welded type (from 1979) end ....2298.

Click to expand...

The 850 Mk3 RM23 rotor was: 54201143 (although part 60600444 is listed) this type is also welded and is the type fitted to my own 850 Mk3 and is stamped "03/77".

http://www.nortonownersclub.org/support ... alternator

As part of cNw's estart kit they provide two Belleville spring washers; one for the clutch nut and the other for the outboard side of the rotor. The don't provide a torque for the clutch nut and only say to tighten the nut until the spring washer is flattened, however on the rotor nut they do specify a torque of about 70 ft lb. The change eliminates the locking tab washer on the clutch and the serrated lock washer on the rotor.

This is a old tread 10 years ago, as for the clutch nut the torque setting at 70 ft lb was to much 40 ft lb is the norm now for that nut and the original lock tab is not really good at its job.

I used a Schnorr washer and 42 ft/lbs on the clutch nut, 70 ft/lbs on the rotor nut with a new serrated washer. (similar to stock and one time use)

I probably should have got the Mk111 style C clip that the clutch inner recessed spacer engages, if it is not a standardised part now.