Primary chain: tight control

Are you talking about the effort required to pull the clutch lever in or something else ?

elefantrider said:

It could be a worn clutch hub. Will know after teardown. I know as a general rule, you are not supposed to use any lubricant on clutch hubs, but is there anything to make the clutch release better?

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The oil bath in the chaincase will ensure sufficient lubrication of the clutch wheel slots. Never lubricate the clutch centre and friction plate tangs. Anything you put on there will be slinging off and smears the friction plates, you don't want that.

If the problem persists, you have to check the actuator, cable and clutch lever - maybe these parts are not providing sufficient lift? Are you using a lever which has a 7/8" distance from fulcrum to center of nipple?

-Knut

I would assume there is the stock Atlas type actuator in there. Will check when I tear it down next month.
As the cable adjuster is almost all the way out, maybe the friction disks are worn thin??

Gear grinding into 1st when stopped, especially when just starting out when the transmission oil is still thick and cold, is a very common condition on many British (and other) motorbikes. It helps to shift up into 2nd, then go down to 1st to get underway. I've done this for years and it helps.

elefantrider said:

I would assume there is the stock Atlas type actuator in there. Will check when I tear it down next month.
As the cable adjuster is almost all the way out, maybe the friction disks are worn thin??

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Did you find out what it was elefant? I have similar issues. Ran the bike without side cover and the chain bounces around. must be some friction causing it somewhere.

Banging into 1st harder than usual could be a sticky slow releasing clutch caused by hypoid weeping out onto the clutch around the clutch rod. If it gets onto the clutch plates the steels a friction plates don't separate quickly. Need a DynoDave clutch rod seal, or something similar, and ATF in the primary. Don't over fill the gearbox. I don't let the gear oil level get up to the threads on that check hole. At least 1/4" below that. I don't cover the chain in ATF fluid either. Fluid level up only to the bottom of the primary chain. None of that is news. I'm just repeating it.

I can't remember what the symptoms are when the clutch cush rubbers need to be replaced. You might want to take a look at the cush rubbers. They could be mush.

I have a 1 1/16" fulcrum to nipple distance at the clutch lever and no gear banging. Snicks into every gear. Barnett plates and springs.

Winnie said:

Did you find out what it was elefant? I have similar issues. Ran the bike without side cover and the chain bounces around. must be some friction causing it somewhere.

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I've narrowed it down to piston slap due to worn pistons. It has a .010 piston-to-wall clearance!

I haven't replaced them yet because it still runs good. They are stock STD dished and that makes it very easy to kick over.

Meanwhile, I'm looking for some STD or .010 over dished pistons.

My P11 sounds like a bucket of nails on a paint shaker at idle. I think everything in it is slapping. I haven't taken it apart for the same reason. It doesn't seem to want to roll over and die.