primary chain adjustment

is there anywhere I can find a step by step instruction on how to adjust my primary chain with pictures ? mine is so tight it's about ready to pop.
the manual if I've read it correctly says to loosen the bottom bolt & adjust with the adjuster to 3/8 slop however it says not to touch the adjuster nut on the left , I am confused
thanks Ray

Here you are
http://www.doov.com/apps/nortoncompanio ... n&Itemid=9

Its no big deal. Slacken both nuts (and the 2 bolts to fix the gearbox). By adjusting you move the gearbox. Backward = tight, forward = loose.

Ralf

so the "left nut" that I am supposed to not fool with is on the "left" side of the bike & not the "left" side of the picture . I think I get it now

The left nut is this round one, which is captive in the cradle. So you can slacken the bolt from the right side without holding the nut.

Here's a fool proof way from Mike Taglieri


"I've always found it difficult to measure the total up-and-down play of the chain, because you have to wiggle the chain up and down somehow and also measure how much it's moving, all through a small hole. An easier way is to measure a tight chain compared to a slack chain, since this is half the total up-and-down play. To do this, make two marks 3/16" apart [not 3/8"] on the end of a stick or piece of paper. Then put the bike on the centerstand and the gearbox in 4th, and lie on the ground next to the primary.

Now, if you move the rear tire in the forward direction with your foot, the bottom of the chain tightens and you get all the slack on top. If you move the rear tire in the backward direction, all the slack is on the bottom and the top is tight. So pick out some feature on the chain (top of link, bottom of link, rivet, etc.) , and compare it to the two marks as you move the wheel back and forth. You can easily see how much it's moving compared with the two marks and loosen the chain appropriately. (BUT DON'T OVERSHOOT! If you get it TOO loose, you have to tighten it and start all over again).

Once the tight chain/slack chain play is 3/16", you know the total up and down play is 3/8". I also try to check it later when the engine is really hot. You can do this at the side of the road, and there should be at least SOME play then, or it needs to be a little looser.
Mike Taglieri"

The basic rule is you need to adjust the chain from too tight, not from loose. For sure don't ride that bike with the chain dead tight.

Of course you have to loosen the final drive chain to do all this and then set it up too.

Dave
69S

Theres about three points to check .

With a gnatty rider , the rear chain knappens to outlever the front . So ,
IF the things 'just done 'the rear will pull it back across any slack in the ADJUSTER .
( see dual adjusters :x :lol: )

SO , once its 'set right ', YOU wind the adjuster / s UP against the Top Bolt , Holding Forward .
( as we presume theres a iota freeplay , adjuster to top bolt . not forgetting to check the adjuster mount bolts nut . ) :shock:

Other deprivations are ascertained by placeing a hoof on the top run of the rear chain with a finger on the top run of the primary chain . Pressure varying tension on primary indicates slack in mainshaft bush / bearing . Theyd all have a iota .

But worth takeing into account , as you dont want it to pull primary bar tight .

The other ( third ) you wont see . But with top and lower box bolts slacked way free , gearbox rocking radially ( viewed from top ) may indicate some slackers run it with them loose , and the bolts arnt a good fit in the trans case .

WHERE all these fasteners Tighten , Grease gunk paint or debri in the joints isnt doing anything a favour ,
The bolts should really be really tight . 1/2 drive sockets or a gentle foot applied to take up the slack & the nip .
NOT to screw the thing out of existance .
touchey feely , dial in the brain cells to the task in hand . Or make your best attempt remembering its not a steam shovel .

Thanks guys you've all taken a heavy load of stress of my already overtaxed brain. Drain Bamage from the 60's ya know

KrazyRay

mine is so tight it's about ready to pop.

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Sorry to tell ya but much as others are like girl friends trying claim your emotional sense of mechanical manhood, I can tell ya > it only takes one over tight event to bend tranny shafts into a slight candy cane twist. Then can expect tranny to decay its bushes and bearing and bores before its time to really test your decision or fate to take on task of a fully fettered Commando. Clutch wobble and then funny shifting may be first clues. Then again may have lucked out. Must check hot to know for sure.

well the good news..............so far so good.... primary loosened and as a result the clutch plates are no longer stuck solid, I can actually spin the rear wheel in gear with the clutch pulled in all the way. no tellin how long this bike has sat in the back room but I'm guessin 10 to 15 years however it's only got 6000 on the odometer. side note the lower trans bolt wasn't even finger tight & the top bolt needed a breaker bar ........go figure. now I'm starting to think a complete frame off rebuild may be in order. the left rear chain tensioner is bent badly & needs to be replaced. oh & btw what are those two large holes in the underside of the headlight bucket for?? turn blinkers maybe ?? ahhhhhhhh the joys of motorcycle maintenance.

krazyray said:

ahhhhhhhh the joys of motorcycle maintenance.

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You ain't kiddin!

OH my what a mechanic's man hood tester to take on. I'm not up for that level of recovery. Could easy end up replacing most the bike that shows on the outside.