Please explain to me how to remove stock amal carbs

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
70
Country flag
Hi guys,

Yes I did search on this forum and through google on how to remove the stock amals but I had no luck. I'm new to carbs so I'd rather not start pulling everything apart and make it more difficult to reassemble them if needed.

So far all I have done is disconnect the "pull" throttle cable from the place where it connects to the splitter which actuates the two different cables straight to each carb. How do I take those two out of the splitter? I'm having a heck of a time trying to pull the actual cable up into the splitter so that I can pull them out of the slots holding them in.

Or instead should I disconnect the cable from each carb? In order to do that must I actually take the tops off the carbs by removing the slotted screws?

Please let me know. As I said, I'd rather not jump in too deep.

Thanks!


P.S. I'm removing these carbs because I'm hoping to install my new JS Motorsport Keihin CRS carb kit.
 
WHOA!

1. Unscrew the tops and pull out the slides, DO NOT try to disassemble the throttle cable junction block.

2. Remove filter(s)

3. Disconnect fuel line ferrules at the fuel taps (turn off the taps first)

4. You need ball-ended allen wrenches to make the job easier, remove the allen head screws at the joint between the intakes and cylinder head

Carbs are now free from the bike.
 
GP +1

Slight variation

You can unscrew the tops but leave the slide in until the carb is off the studs and then pull the slide out as you lower the carb.
 
Make/have a couple tools for the job:
Cut down 7/32 Allen wrench and short shank crosshead screwdriver with a good fit for the Posi drive 2BA screws.
I have always wanted a true fitting screwdriver for the British screws.
Americans tend to have messed up heads on the Amal screws because we use the wrong fitting Philips head.
Please explain to me how to remove stock amal carbs
 
I found the cut down allen key (wrench) essential.
Americans aren't the only ones who use phillips screwdrivers on pozi drive screws. I haven't even seen a pozi drive screwdriver in hardware stores, although the bits are available for driver guns. And slotted screws are a PITA. Better to change over to allen screws on the carbs, then a ball ended allen key makes life easy.
 
From an earlier (July 2016) post:
"I became so frustrated working those inner allen-head bolts that I drilled 2 holes in the frame plate just outside the big grommet area, bought a Bondhus 03111 t-handle wrench (looks like the tool number is now 13111) and now have a straight shot to those 2 devilishly-placed fasteners. Cut about 5/8" off one of the "T" handles to get some rotation clearing the frame top tube, and feel much better every time I go there. "
At least one other person liked the idea. I just took another look at those holes. They are about 9/32 dia, the edges of the holes are just outside the grommet itself, and they are in about the 4:00 and 8:00 o'clock positions as viewed from the back. You'd have to remove the tank to drill them, and I'm so glad I did.
 
Bob Z. said:
Americans tend to have messed up heads on the Amal screws because we use the wrong fitting Philips head.
Please explain to me how to remove stock amal carbs

I replaced mine with socket-head screws (allens) and eliminated ALL cheese-head and phillips-head screws.
 
Got the carbs as well as the manifolds off. I always thought it was a good idea to stick an oily rag in the ports going into the heads if they are going to be exposed for a few days but I just read another post on this forum that said the oil will cause the seals to rot. Any thoughts on that? Thanks very much.
 
The inlet valve seals are oil seals and soaked in oil when the engine is running, they would not last long if they reacted to oil.

Sounds like a man in a pub story.
 
Never mind, just figured it out. I just needed to fiddle with it for an extra 5 minutes!
 
I find it helps to have a good pair of hemostats to hold that slide spring tightly compressed on the cable while removing/installing stuff.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top