Oil Pressure Sensor (2016)

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Seems like much ado about nothing, it's $30 part for christ's sake. My experience with the OP warning lights on triumph's/beezers has been good. If the light goes solid you've got a big problem, stop the bike. If it starts to flicker at idle on a warm bike (and worsens over time), this is a clue that your pump is worn, as it was on my triumph when the light started flickering at idle. Put a new morgo pump in there, and 4 years later the light never comes on when the bike is running.

Run it with or without an OP gauge if you want, but it just seems like simple and cheap insurance for your bike
 
JimC said:
Those using a tap in the input to the oil pump fall into two categories, those who have destroyed the engine due to the tap being closed and those who will destroy the engine due to the tap being closed. Never, never put anything inline between the oil tank and oil pump.
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Well I agree with your first statement (myself including category one :oops: ) however your last statement sounds a little bit omniscient as there are reliable automatic valves available to prevent (or at least to slow down) wet sumping like the oil tank valve I have been using on my Commando and Dominator for many years and many miles now. I am aware of some automatic valves will cause oil pressure reduction or even oil starvation. According to HNW numerous of these oil tank valves are in use but if someone has first hand bad experience with this oil tank valve please share your info :!: :?:

Oil Pressure Sensor (2016)
 
I wonder how many commando engines have been destroyed by owners and their hodge-podge attempts to keep from destroying their engines.
 
nortonspeed said:
JimC said:
Those using a tap in the input to the oil pump fall into two categories, those who have destroyed the engine due to the tap being closed and those who will destroy the engine due to the tap being closed. Never, never put anything inline between the oil tank and oil pump.
Click to expand...

Well I agree with your first statement (myself including category one :oops: ) however your last statement sounds a little bit omniscient as there are reliable automatic valves available to prevent (or at least to slow down) wet sumping like the oil tank valve I have been using on my Commando and Dominator for many years and many miles now. I am aware of some automatic valves will cause oil pressure reduction or even oil starvation. According to HNW numerous of these oil tank valves are in use but if someone has first hand bad experience with this oil tank valve please share your info :!: :?:

Oil Pressure Sensor (2016)
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I've wondered about that unit myself, and have not come across and reviews on it. I'm curious what, if any, effect its location within the oil tank itself might have on flow rate? Are there any hydraulic engineers on this forum?
 
acadian said:
I've wondered about that unit myself, and have not come across and reviews on it. I'm curious what, if any, effect its location within the oil tank itself might have on flow rate? Are there any hydraulic engineers on this forum?
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Acadian I did test 3 different types of automatic anti wet sump valves and posted the results on this forum earlier:

I have tested three types of automatic anti wet sump valves: RGM valve (closed alloy body), CNW valve (alloy with see-through part in the middle) and HNW oil tank valve. Compared to using none the RGM type valve effected an oil pressure drop of approximately 10% throughout the rev range where the CNW valve caused oil pressure loss close to nothing and the HNW valve causes no oil pressure drop at all. When I took the valves apart I found out the RGM type valve has a reasonably tight spring to press a steel ball on its seat preventing oil from entering where the CNW valve has a synthetic ball hold by a less tight spring and the HNW oil tank valve has a larger soft spring and ball pressing against a rubber seating instead of an alloy seating of the former two valves.

But like you suggested a hydraulic engineer who can shine a more specific light on this matter would be welcome :!:
 
The location of that unit is not going to help or hinder compared to an inline valve, you need to be able to prime the line so you have to prime the banjo and hold it up until you can screw the unit in keeping all the oil in, what is looks to have an advantage is the size of the opening and no doubt the x sectional area for the oil flow is larger than an inline unit. What really helps in these inline valves is a spring that is only just strong enough to hold back the head of oil plus a pliable seat for the ball for a good seal. I took an air line inline valve and shortened the spring until it would only hold back 24" column of oil eg the distance between the bottom of the sump and the oil level in the tank, and being for air it had a rubber seat for the ball. After I had finished I could easily blow through it unlike some of the ones that are available, its been in position for 20 years now with no issues or wet sumping.
 
I have the RGM type fitted to my 750 commando it's been on there apprx 20 years never had a problem with it,I always prime it up when I change oil ,but having read of these valves jamming shut on people it is a worry so maybe I'll remove it
 
On mine for the first run of the day I check the return for long enough so it must be fresh supplied oil coming back, for it to then fail later on in the day would be a very low risk as the ball has already been lifted from its seat earlier in the day, its the ball sticking to the seat that is the concern.
 
Longer term report on the switch Don is supplying. It's been mild here the past couple weeks, and I've had the bike out 3 times to stretch her legs. Happy to report the switch functions as intended. This past weekend we saw record high temps, and I had her out for a couple hours, mixed highway and congested traffic. I know she was warm because my oil bypass valve had opened and was letting oil to the cooler. Light never flickered, even while waiting in traffic. I confirmed it was functioning several times through day (coffee stops) - key on = light on, kick over = light off....

I know there's many opinions about the value of light vs. gauge, or running nothing at all... but all I want to know is "Got Pressure?"

IMO this is an inexpensive and effective bit of insurance that gives some peace of mind.

One note, the dowdy washers supplied weeped a slight bit, and I wasn't keen on applying more torque so I replaced with plain aluminium washers
 
Oil Pressure Sensor (2016)

I sacrificed one of the Titanium banjo bolts to see how much load it would take, well it snapped at just under 30ft/lbs
so dont be to concerned about not getting enough tension on the banjo bolt to stop any weeping.
Make sure that the middle sealing washer is central and on its shoulder when tightening.
The recommended torque for the standard banjo bolt is 15ft/lbs
Don
 
Hi Don,

Are these available for sale now, or just in the R & D stage? I would also like ordering info on your one-piece rear axle. Thanks!

Don
 
Oil Pressure Sensor (2016)


I'm expecting this wee A2 puppy to seal at up to 80 psi so I think that titanium bolt is well up for its job.

Jg
 
How do I get a message to Don, user name Badass140, to get information on how to order his oil pressure switch? I'm quite interested in it.
Thanks, Jim (firebirdscrambler)
 
firebirdscrambler said:
How do I get a message to Don, user name Badass140, to get information on how to order his oil pressure switch? I'm quite interested in it.
Thanks, Jim (firebirdscrambler)
Click to expand...
Erm his user name is "madass 140" and the product is very good
 
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