OIl leak from kick start

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MATTT said:
im hoping the shaft wont need shims as ive not got a dial indicator,is there a way to feel how much play there should be? not an accurate way i know,the RGM guy said it may well not need shims but how will i know without using a guage?
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You only need the dial indicator if you replace the layshaft bearing with a roller bearing.
 
sorry another question!
which one is the sleeve gear?

ive ordered the bearing off the RGM site , i think its a needle bearing possibly,although the chap on the phone said it may not need shims


its this one "layshaft superblend bearing fits all"
p.number 67710
 
MATTT said:
got the layshaft out with the bearing stuck on the end of it , just need to work out how to get it off the shaft now
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Try levering it off with a couple of screwdrivers or thin wedges inserted between it and the 4th gear pinion.



MATTT said:
the bearing had a name on it,i cant remember now im home what it said,spoke to RGM and was told it was a standard roller bearing but a good quality make
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As the bearing came out on the end of the shaft it should be a one piece ball bearing?

MATTT said:
couple more things i need to know,do i fit the new bearing onto the shaft 1st or loctite it into the casing and push the shaft in afterwards?
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The new RGM bearing should be a two piece bearing with a loose single lipped inner race if it's the layshaft roller bearing? There is also another high quality one piece phenolic cage ball bearing option as recommended and sold by Mick Hemmings.

First, fit the inner part of the roller bearing to the layshaft with the lip towards 4th gear, there's no need to use any Loctite, then fit the outer part of the bearing back onto the inner, and with the casing reheated, use the layshaft to install the outer part of the bearing into casing. Again you shouldn't need any Loctite unless you were able to pull the old bearing out cold, it felt loose or there was evidence that it had been spinning in the casing, in which case please let us know?

The gearbox casing should be hot enough so that the bearing literally "falls" into place without any need to tap it in.
 
morning all

the new bearing is a roller type and the original was a 1 piece ball bearing type-when i removed the old one i had to gently wobble the shaft and pull it at the same time
it came out after about a minute of doing this,still stuck on the layshaft
i hadnt heated the casing at all though,so its fairly tight but maybe not tight enough?

thats why i was thinking of using loctite around the outside of the new one what you think?


matt
 
MATTT said:
the new bearing is a roller type and the original was a 1 piece ball bearing type-when i removed the old one i had to gently wobble the shaft and pull it at the same time
it came out after about a minute of doing this,still stuck on the layshaft
i hadnt heated the casing at all though,so its fairly tight but maybe not tight enough?

thats why i was thinking of using loctite around the outside of the new one what you think?
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Yes, in that case it probably would be a worth using "bearing fit" Loctite on the outer part of the bearing, (the bearing inner is usually far to tight a fit on the layshaft anyway) as being able to wiggle the old ball bearing out of the cold casing is possibly not so good? And I really do suggest you use some heat on the case when you fit the new bearing.
 
well the parts arrived today
heated the casing with a handheld mini hot gas gun and put some loctite on the bearing
it pushed in quite easily when warm( i tried it cold and it wouldnt have dropped in without being tapped home)
put the layshaft onto it and gave it 3 gentle taps to make sure it was home ok

all the gears and bushes are fine,its been rebuilt by the look of it , the layshaft bearing i took out was also fine and was a Fafnir 203K - C3- normal ball bearing type

i went to replace the kick start pawl as it was worn slightly and pushed the pin out and it was in 2 pieces so i will have to do another order

put the gasket and the kick start shaft and theres just under a mm of play so im going to get 3 sized shims and try a few and try to borrow a dial indicator off someone as i dont have one
has anyone ever tried to shim it out without measuring it ,fitting shims to allow just a small amount of movement ? ( in case i cant get a dial gauge )
 
MATTT said:
has anyone ever tried to shim it out without measuring it ,fitting shims to allow just a small amount of movement ? ( in case i cant get a dial gauge )
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If you think you can tell the difference between .005 and .025, go for it.

Basically you want a little (very) movement. What you don't want is no movement or too much.
 
swooshdave said:
If you think you can tell the difference between .005 and .025, go for it.
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lol im not that good !!

im just planning ahead in case i cant get a guage-as i was sure some people must just do it by feel,its moving a fair bit at the moment so will def need a shim or 2
I will just try and get 3 different sizes and if needed fit one after the other and get it like you descibe,not ideal but it should be ok

thanks
matt
 
MATTT said:
swooshdave said:
If you think you can tell the difference between .005 and .025, go for it.
Click to expand...

lol im not that good !!

im just planning ahead in case i cant get a guage-as i was sure some people must just do it by feel,its moving a fair bit at the moment so will def need a shim or 2
I will just try and get 3 different sizes and if needed fit one after the other and get it like you descibe,not ideal but it should be ok

thanks
matt
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You saw how you have to open up the ID of the shims slightly to make them fit?
 
yes thanks i did read about that
ive got a small hand held dremel type tool that will do the trick

ive decided to ask to borrow a DTI or if not im going to buy one,as ive looked tonight and they are cheaper than i thought
might only use it the once but it may come in handy again
probably have to buy a metric one though and not many of them come with magnetic stands so i will need to look about a bit

im normally very particular how i work and i dont like the idea of guessing the end float id prefer to do it properly and get an exact measurement and them get the exact shim in there

ive no plans to ever sell the bike and this will then be one less thing to worry about

hopefully i will get to ride it soon as ive owned it for 5 months and not ridden it once !
 
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