Oil filter plumbing help...

I got an oil filter adapter, and filter.
Did not come with hoses, or instructions.
Read the article on old brits website, and found it hard to understand.
I know I need some 1/2" hose, but how do I route the hoses?
What connects to where?

Thanks guys!

PS Got 4 new black diamond valves, guides, seals, etc... Getting it all done, decarbonizing, surfacing, blah blah blah!

trace out how they are connected now the hose closest to the timing cover comes from the oil tank outlet which has the large banjo. leave this one alone!!! remove the line on the engine closest to the center of the bike it will connect to the oil tank on the metal pipe. this one will be re piped for the oil filter. the line from the engine will connect to the fitting that feeds the outer diameter of the oil filter. the line that connects to the center fitting ( it will exit in the center of the threaded part that the filter screws on ) will go to the oil tank. all this is if you are using the Norton filter adapter.

See this:

http://www.oldbritts.com/oillines.html

fin_du_monde said:

See this:

http://www.oldbritts.com/oillines.html

Click to expand...

Right out of the manual. You do have a repair and parts manual don't you?

I know they are plainly marked, but there has been some prior confusion about the oil routing diagram colors. The blue is cold oil (feed), whereas the red is hot oil (return). It's not like the blood flow charts you studied in high school biology. Hopefully, everyone already knows this.

Confusing, but very British

The oil line routing makes great sense for function, but no sense for form. Coming out of the engine in the pipe that is closest to the bikes centerline is the return, it heads for the filter and enters the filter housing in the nipple closest to the bikes right outside. the filter nipple closest to the bikes center CROSSES the input line at the engine plates and heads to the oil tank, making its termination just inboard of the large banjo fitting that is the oil supply to the engine, more likely to your anti-sumping valve.

The oil system was designed by bi-polar individuals, isn't it wonderful to have this piece of British history rigjht in your hands?

Thank goodness it works, please make sure that you check for abrasion of the oil lines every chance you get. I am seriously thinking of removing my filter after a few thousand miles and just plumbing it the way the 750s did.

RS

I use a spiral flex metal sheath where there is a possibility of chaffing.

I have to agree that the plumbing is not the ultimate but I don't think the addition of the filter was actually "designed". They wanted to add a filter and used pieces that were readily available and found someplace (the most cruel and unusual) to mount it. It is do-the-minimum engineering. I also use the spiral flex metal sleeves where the hoses rub on the engine plates. The spiral sleeves do show rubbing wear but the hoses have been fine. Probably still on my 2nd set now in 37 years. (Will add that to my Spring maintenance list.)

Mine is a '72 750 and I added the Norton filter as soon as it came out a year or two later. After I did this I used to dissect the filter element after each oil change and see what it caught. The answer is "a lotta stuff" - metal in paste form and even some bigger pieces that amazingly made it thru the oil pump gears. So I would not want to go backwards and remove it.

Oil anti-sumping valve? :shock: Let's not get started on this one!

The silly part is Norton't version came out a lot like the Pontiac oil filter I added to mine way back when. Norton's version is actually nicer since it is smaller. My engine also used to leave a surprising amount of crap in that filter. This is way better than having it end up in the crank and sump.