Norton head removal

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gioleo123

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Apr 28, 2024
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Hi, guys.
I purchased a poorly running Commando last year and I'm trying to get it roadworthy to use.
It looks like I have a blown head gasket on my 71 Commando. I see a lot of oil seepage between the head and barrel near the exhaust ports, and the compression is only at 100lbs each side. I removed everything as per the Workshop manual but I am having a heard time removing the three bolts that are accessed from below.
I have a set of the superslim ww spanners, but I can't get enough of a turn on them to remove the two front bolts. The rear bolt wont move at all. Is there a special trick or tool I need to get these off. I have already purchased the koken ww socket set and the exhaust nut removal spanner, so I guess another tool won't hurt.
I also have a new copper gasket. When its time to reassemble, does this go on dry?
Last question how do you torque these lower bolts as there is no way I will be able to get my torque wrench into these tight spots.
Any advice is much appreciated! Gio
 
gioleo123 said:
Hi, guys.
I purchased a poorly running Commando last year and I'm trying to get it roadworthy to use.
It looks like I have a blown head gasket on my 71 Commando. I see a lot of oil seepage between the head and barrel near the exhaust ports, and the compression is only at 100lbs each side. I removed everything as per the Workshop manual but I am having a heard time removing the three bolts that are accessed from below.
I have a set of the superslim ww spanners, but I can't get enough of a turn on them to remove the two front bolts. The rear bolt wont move at all. Is there a special trick or tool I need to get these off. I have already purchased the koken ww socket set and the exhaust nut removal spanner, so I guess another tool won't hurt.
I also have a new copper gasket. When its time to reassemble, does this go on dry?
Last question how do you torque these lower bolts as there is no way I will be able to get my torque wrench into these tight spots.
Any advice is much appreciated! Gio
Click to expand...
There is a special wrench that AN sells that helps with the rear bolt: https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details-2/18702/combination-spanner-1-4-whitworth-obstruction- Even with it, you may find your grinder to be your friend - some castings have very little room in there.


Use an open end on the front two. Once off, throw them away and buy these:

andover-norton.co.uk

Andover Norton - CYLINDER HEAD SLEEVE NUT (NM24260) (NMT2034) - 06.3192

CYLINDER HEAD SLEEVE NUT (NM24260) (NMT2034)
andover-norton.co.uk

Be sure to anneal the copper head gasket - for some reason, they are not supplied annealed and will leak.
 
gioleo123 said:
Hi, guys.
I purchased a poorly running Commando last year and I'm trying to get it roadworthy to use.
It looks like I have a blown head gasket on my 71 Commando. I see a lot of oil seepage between the head and barrel near the exhaust ports, and the compression is only at 100lbs each side. I removed everything as per the Workshop manual but I am having a heard time removing the three bolts that are accessed from below.
I have a set of the superslim ww spanners, but I can't get enough of a turn on them to remove the two front bolts. The rear bolt wont move at all. Is there a special trick or tool I need to get these off. I have already purchased the koken ww socket set and the exhaust nut removal spanner, so I guess another tool won't hurt.
I also have a new copper gasket. When its time to reassemble, does this go on dry?
Last question how do you torque these lower bolts as there is no way I will be able to get my torque wrench into these tight spots.
Any advice is much appreciated! Gio
Click to expand...
I use a fishing scale and 6" combination wrench to torque the hard to access nuts. Pull 60# on a 6" wrench and you will get 30'# of torque on the nut
 
gioleo123 said:
Hi, guys.
I purchased a poorly running Commando last year and I'm trying to get it roadworthy to use.
It looks like I have a blown head gasket on my 71 Commando. I see a lot of oil seepage between the head and barrel near the exhaust ports, and the compression is only at 100lbs each side. I removed everything as per the Workshop manual but I am having a heard time removing the three bolts that are accessed from below.
I have a set of the superslim ww spanners, but I can't get enough of a turn on them to remove the two front bolts. The rear bolt wont move at all. Is there a special trick or tool I need to get these off. I have already purchased the koken ww socket set and the exhaust nut removal spanner, so I guess another tool won't hurt.
I also have a new copper gasket. When its time to reassemble, does this go on dry?
Last question how do you torque these lower bolts as there is no way I will be able to get my torque wrench into these tight spots.
Any advice is much appreciated! Gio
Click to expand...

While head is off, be sure to check the two front stud holes in the block by removing studs and putting a light down pushrod tunnel, to check for cracks from stud hole drilling through into tunnel. A common source of oil leakage up stud threads and out front of head fins. Use locktite to fix studs in and stop the leak.
 
Thank you guys for all the great advice. I am going to go ahead and order a King Dick 'obstruction' spanner.
This should do the trick. I will definitely anneal the copper gasket.
 
I've sprayed this on my annealled copper head gasket, 3 times, no leaks.
Norton head removal
 
concours said:
I've sprayed this on my annealled copper head gasket, 3 times, no leaks. View attachment 114147
Click to expand...
I use it on all gaskets if I feel the need for a more positive seal.

I've used it on automotive steel head gaskets, composite head gaskets, paper gaskets, even fiberglas reinforced silicone gaskets in some applications.
 
I've had heads where the two front bottom nuts were really difficult to get a wrench on because the casting was poorly relieved there. I ground down the OD of the box wrench to get them off, then took a Dremel to the casting to give me more clearance for reassembly.
 
marshg246 said:
Be sure to anneal the copper head gasket - for some reason, they are not supplied annealed and will leak.
Click to expand...
One reason for not annealing copper gaskets before supply is that current recommendations are to install the gasket within 20 minutes of annealing it!
 
SteveA said:
One reason for not annealing copper gaskets before supply is that current recommendations are to install the gasket within 20 minutes of annealing it!
Click to expand...
Weird, I've installed many on Triumphs that came annealed, and I've never had one leak. Where did you hear that recommendation?
 
Copper does not age harden, you anneal every gasket just before you use it as you can never be sure if the supplier annealed it or not and if its your own and been on the shelf for a few years then is your memory good enough to know 100% if you annealed it. There is also no need to quench copper or to get it all cherry red at once, you can do it an area at a time with plenty of overlap. The quench just makes it easier to remove any crud on the gasket.
 
kommando said:
Copper does not age harden, you anneal every gasket just before you use it as you can never be sure if the supplier annealed it or not and if its your own and been on the shelf for a few years then is your memory good enough to know 100% if you annealed it. There is also no need to quench copper or to get it all cherry red at once, you can do it an area at a time with plenty of overlap. The quench just makes it easier to remove any crud on the gasket.
Click to expand...
Agreed on age hardening, but the rest is weird to me. Annealed copper is very malleable (bends easily), un-annealed is not.
 
kommando said:
Copper does not age harden, you anneal every gasket just before you use it as you can never be sure if the supplier annealed it or not and if its your own and been on the shelf for a few years then is your memory good enough to know 100% if you annealed it. There is also no need to quench copper or to get it all cherry red at once, you can do it an area at a time with plenty of overlap. The quench just makes it easier to remove any crud on the gasket.
Click to expand...
I give it bend test.
Calibrated fingers.


JMWO
 
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