Norton for a 30,000 mile ride?
- Thread starter HenryUK
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Henry the American Indians say we don't fully mature until age 56 and I say once you're over the Hill You Pick Up Speed! I've recently learned an ole Irish saying when I was frustrated on recent Commando recovery, "We are not here for a long time just a Good Time. I merely add that I want to take as many with me as I can.
The Commando is the ideal bike for your end of the World ride quest. Regardless of what the naysayers say, there is no other bike that can be so comfortable to live on. Its vibes are so dulled down its more therapeutic than traumatizing fatiguing but for sure not if configured along the lines the vast majority here do low bars and hard sleek solo seat and tiny tank you can't rest on or grip with knees, pashaw. I've done just enough long distance to find my body and bike would completely disappear for effortless cruise in a trance state fully alert just a grin and eye balls projecting into the wind and future.
I'd get a '71 or '72 crank cases and a small port standard head with standard cam set up for mid 8ish compression ratio and a single 30 or 32 mm carb. Mikuni should last longer than an Amal.
The frame is fully up to as much off road rough stuff as you can take, no one breaks frames except by removing the wonderful isolastic mounts. Alls you should do is just weld a 1/2" dia tube brace about mid way down front frame and another across the middle of rear frame up-bends. Add the simple 3 rod links
and you will not believe how competent the handling and isolated from nuance road and wind jiggles wiggles and upsets so even if feeling low and ill its refreshing to be on the Commando. No fork damper as not needed and takes away from the light steering, like English racer bicycle. All other modern bikes of significant size and power are sluggish dull brutes compared.
I have solved the Roadholder fork issues and inexpensive kit is now available for better fork action than I've experienced in sport bikes, even modified-upgraded or endruo, trials and MX bike, poor dangerous corner cripples on or off pavement, pashaw.
The front frame tubes are too close to stretch a leg out on to rest, but a bar across the fork brace [you should add one] allows foot forward ease and also is a protector of bike when dropping all loaded down. Saved me more than once away from home as bars and controls and tank and mirror and signals were fine.
After a few miles of feeling what the forks are doing you will be way more expert on what is really happening and matters most over the most elite cycle engineers-designers for poor dangerous corner crippling ignorance, pashaw! I"m spending way too much on Ms Peel to have power and lighteness to out sprint the moderns as already know they are dangerous corner cripples at rates and loads Ms Peel is a breeze to take, plus 3 more faster way funner ways to change direction they don't even know a cycle can do w/o crashing, heheheehehehehhehhe
I'd stick with steel rims WM2 on both ends to fit same size tire but would go with 18" as way more common than 19". I'd get a dual tread tire that's more on road oriented as most traction is by tire compound and inflation pressure, not tractor cleats which roughen ride and deform on pavement crisis dodges.
I'd put on 2" taller rear shocks to match the 2" taller stance my fork mod can provide for more road shock and hi centering clearance, like going over edge of a wash out or peaks in the path and more cargo capacity w/o bottoming. My fork mods can not be bottomed or topped out to even feel them but for soft sudden change of direction w/o any upset to chassis or pilot teeth.
I'd put front crash bars, attached up near the stem and down by the engine mounts and factory cross brace and triangulated so fork foot bar collides with them just as reaching the stem stop to both back up the fork twisting off and bending bars into tank plus keeping some the full load off frame tubes holding the main crash bars. So top of main bars would angle steeply down to clear legs out on fork tube and lower bar less up angled to meet at apex the fork bar contacts on crashing. You will go down by your own fault or others or who knows what.
Rear crash bars would be a squarish loop I'd configure to help attach big hard bags. Later can discuss how to do the hard attach points and some optional triangulation that should not hinder pilot getting out the way but could just as well hang on to bike tightly and not be hurt much either.
With my above mods there is A LOT to be said and confidence to stay on bike and fight out a horrific upset and save the day, but of course can also be worse as may be flung off in hi side bike can land on you, ugh. But can also stay in bedroom or office desk and not live much at all. I left the big city and big clinic practice for more time than money but an real cool unpredictable life style in rural Ozarks Dixieland. I'm impressed no end by your insight to use that endearing term for south side of Mason Dixon line.
I'd stick with 530 chain and start out with the X-ring sealed kind but 530 plain chain is very common around the world, just carry extra master links. Test wear by how much you can lift chain are back of sprocket out of the valleys as that is how far up the chain links ride on teeth under way. About a 1/3 up valleys and I'm pensive to replace it as the teeth will soon be thinned the fanned over and breaking off. duh don't ask, I didn't come to my blunt opinions the easy way.
Bob Patten has been a mentor to me on the rod links and what happens to teeth in Gravel conditions which is the most common pathways world wide. He had to make a sprocket teeth to get back home. What I've found is dry chain best in the grit or makes a messy grinding paste. Expect about 10,000 miles before its a loosing state of more wear than economy not to switch chain.
I'd put on LED running and signal lights and a upgraded halogen or even HID headlight. Then can go slower and still charge to run. Biggest battery you can stuff in is wise as can ride longer if a wire breaks before finding fixing.
There is Sparx 3 phase alternator that increases wattage at lower rpm.
A LED color change or other volt meter is way worthile to keep tract of charge vs discharge time and alerts to charging and battery state.
I'd put in the lowest ratio 1st gear you can find and the taller 2nd gear ratio 850's use and gear box sprocket 21 T for long legged easy mileage loafing cruise. Most you fun accelerating and dicing the fun twisties under 80 mph will be the wonderful 2nd gear, but don't want to stay in low gears long as oil can't get into the sleeve bushes so eats them up which wobbles clucth basket and then miss shifts. 4th gear lock these part together so no oil no problemo and is good mid 30 mph to over the ton. I love the torque so I don't have to peddle shitf my Cdo around like I do my corner crippled, sluggish effort steering fat tired tingling vibration road racer modified '00 SV650, pashaw...
Interstate tank with a big tank bag on it you can rest your trunk/head on while still seeing ahead well is wonderful on the long boring endless opens to get somewhere worth being.... Any octane you get should work but may have to tweak timing a bit now and then for elevations and fuel available.
You will need aftermarket air filter as factory air box is trauma to deal with. I'd get the one piece kind and then over wrap it with filter foam to be easy to knock off most the layer daily and not have to deal with the main filter as much.
To carry heavy loads the rear loop needs struts from back of Z-plates up to luggage rack itself or just the rear of frame loop. Also double as handles to lift and drag up from spills. I'd somehow tie these to the rear crash bars and storage bag supports.
I'd go with a 2 into 1 exhaust as lighter and more low down spunk but also think about rigging a basket-holder on muffler for on the road cooking oven.
I'd not put on a full crusier fairing as heavy and wind buffet handling uspsetter but would a tall fork mounted screen you can look over w/o wind blast and maybe with lowers to keep blast off the legs some. The one in my photo's dampened semi truck blasts and stablized to self centering dampened forks at speed.
Pazion SureFire ignition seems most robust for the buxs, points may work but will be a constant attention getter on every slight let down on firing. Extra spark plugs of course.
As much as ya can mount fenders and brackets with thin rubber under which does dampen a good bit of the metal ringing most don't even notice they are noticing until done like that I found.
Tools and spares are a whole 'nother post while ya chew on the above and others pick apart my recommendations on what I'm doing on my mostly still a Commando where it matters most - Ms Peel. I plan my asses to be stored in her tank hung up in some bar or bike shop. How about you?
Looking like my headlight here, white patch is gel coat knocked off but still serviceable until a deer knocked it so hard the hinge broke so got another, my 3rd in a decade now, ugh...
The Commando is the ideal bike for your end of the World ride quest. Regardless of what the naysayers say, there is no other bike that can be so comfortable to live on. Its vibes are so dulled down its more therapeutic than traumatizing fatiguing but for sure not if configured along the lines the vast majority here do low bars and hard sleek solo seat and tiny tank you can't rest on or grip with knees, pashaw. I've done just enough long distance to find my body and bike would completely disappear for effortless cruise in a trance state fully alert just a grin and eye balls projecting into the wind and future.
I'd get a '71 or '72 crank cases and a small port standard head with standard cam set up for mid 8ish compression ratio and a single 30 or 32 mm carb. Mikuni should last longer than an Amal.
The frame is fully up to as much off road rough stuff as you can take, no one breaks frames except by removing the wonderful isolastic mounts. Alls you should do is just weld a 1/2" dia tube brace about mid way down front frame and another across the middle of rear frame up-bends. Add the simple 3 rod links
and you will not believe how competent the handling and isolated from nuance road and wind jiggles wiggles and upsets so even if feeling low and ill its refreshing to be on the Commando. No fork damper as not needed and takes away from the light steering, like English racer bicycle. All other modern bikes of significant size and power are sluggish dull brutes compared.
I have solved the Roadholder fork issues and inexpensive kit is now available for better fork action than I've experienced in sport bikes, even modified-upgraded or endruo, trials and MX bike, poor dangerous corner cripples on or off pavement, pashaw.
The front frame tubes are too close to stretch a leg out on to rest, but a bar across the fork brace [you should add one] allows foot forward ease and also is a protector of bike when dropping all loaded down. Saved me more than once away from home as bars and controls and tank and mirror and signals were fine.
After a few miles of feeling what the forks are doing you will be way more expert on what is really happening and matters most over the most elite cycle engineers-designers for poor dangerous corner crippling ignorance, pashaw! I"m spending way too much on Ms Peel to have power and lighteness to out sprint the moderns as already know they are dangerous corner cripples at rates and loads Ms Peel is a breeze to take, plus 3 more faster way funner ways to change direction they don't even know a cycle can do w/o crashing, heheheehehehehhehhe
I'd stick with steel rims WM2 on both ends to fit same size tire but would go with 18" as way more common than 19". I'd get a dual tread tire that's more on road oriented as most traction is by tire compound and inflation pressure, not tractor cleats which roughen ride and deform on pavement crisis dodges.
I'd put on 2" taller rear shocks to match the 2" taller stance my fork mod can provide for more road shock and hi centering clearance, like going over edge of a wash out or peaks in the path and more cargo capacity w/o bottoming. My fork mods can not be bottomed or topped out to even feel them but for soft sudden change of direction w/o any upset to chassis or pilot teeth.
I'd put front crash bars, attached up near the stem and down by the engine mounts and factory cross brace and triangulated so fork foot bar collides with them just as reaching the stem stop to both back up the fork twisting off and bending bars into tank plus keeping some the full load off frame tubes holding the main crash bars. So top of main bars would angle steeply down to clear legs out on fork tube and lower bar less up angled to meet at apex the fork bar contacts on crashing. You will go down by your own fault or others or who knows what.
Rear crash bars would be a squarish loop I'd configure to help attach big hard bags. Later can discuss how to do the hard attach points and some optional triangulation that should not hinder pilot getting out the way but could just as well hang on to bike tightly and not be hurt much either.
With my above mods there is A LOT to be said and confidence to stay on bike and fight out a horrific upset and save the day, but of course can also be worse as may be flung off in hi side bike can land on you, ugh. But can also stay in bedroom or office desk and not live much at all. I left the big city and big clinic practice for more time than money but an real cool unpredictable life style in rural Ozarks Dixieland. I'm impressed no end by your insight to use that endearing term for south side of Mason Dixon line.
I'd stick with 530 chain and start out with the X-ring sealed kind but 530 plain chain is very common around the world, just carry extra master links. Test wear by how much you can lift chain are back of sprocket out of the valleys as that is how far up the chain links ride on teeth under way. About a 1/3 up valleys and I'm pensive to replace it as the teeth will soon be thinned the fanned over and breaking off. duh don't ask, I didn't come to my blunt opinions the easy way.
Bob Patten has been a mentor to me on the rod links and what happens to teeth in Gravel conditions which is the most common pathways world wide. He had to make a sprocket teeth to get back home. What I've found is dry chain best in the grit or makes a messy grinding paste. Expect about 10,000 miles before its a loosing state of more wear than economy not to switch chain.
I'd put on LED running and signal lights and a upgraded halogen or even HID headlight. Then can go slower and still charge to run. Biggest battery you can stuff in is wise as can ride longer if a wire breaks before finding fixing.
There is Sparx 3 phase alternator that increases wattage at lower rpm.
A LED color change or other volt meter is way worthile to keep tract of charge vs discharge time and alerts to charging and battery state.
I'd put in the lowest ratio 1st gear you can find and the taller 2nd gear ratio 850's use and gear box sprocket 21 T for long legged easy mileage loafing cruise. Most you fun accelerating and dicing the fun twisties under 80 mph will be the wonderful 2nd gear, but don't want to stay in low gears long as oil can't get into the sleeve bushes so eats them up which wobbles clucth basket and then miss shifts. 4th gear lock these part together so no oil no problemo and is good mid 30 mph to over the ton. I love the torque so I don't have to peddle shitf my Cdo around like I do my corner crippled, sluggish effort steering fat tired tingling vibration road racer modified '00 SV650, pashaw...
Interstate tank with a big tank bag on it you can rest your trunk/head on while still seeing ahead well is wonderful on the long boring endless opens to get somewhere worth being.... Any octane you get should work but may have to tweak timing a bit now and then for elevations and fuel available.
You will need aftermarket air filter as factory air box is trauma to deal with. I'd get the one piece kind and then over wrap it with filter foam to be easy to knock off most the layer daily and not have to deal with the main filter as much.
To carry heavy loads the rear loop needs struts from back of Z-plates up to luggage rack itself or just the rear of frame loop. Also double as handles to lift and drag up from spills. I'd somehow tie these to the rear crash bars and storage bag supports.
I'd go with a 2 into 1 exhaust as lighter and more low down spunk but also think about rigging a basket-holder on muffler for on the road cooking oven.
I'd not put on a full crusier fairing as heavy and wind buffet handling uspsetter but would a tall fork mounted screen you can look over w/o wind blast and maybe with lowers to keep blast off the legs some. The one in my photo's dampened semi truck blasts and stablized to self centering dampened forks at speed.
Pazion SureFire ignition seems most robust for the buxs, points may work but will be a constant attention getter on every slight let down on firing. Extra spark plugs of course.
As much as ya can mount fenders and brackets with thin rubber under which does dampen a good bit of the metal ringing most don't even notice they are noticing until done like that I found.
Tools and spares are a whole 'nother post while ya chew on the above and others pick apart my recommendations on what I'm doing on my mostly still a Commando where it matters most - Ms Peel. I plan my asses to be stored in her tank hung up in some bar or bike shop. How about you?
Looking like my headlight here, white patch is gel coat knocked off but still serviceable until a deer knocked it so hard the hinge broke so got another, my 3rd in a decade now, ugh...
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2006
- Messages
- 1,081
Henry, I think it's a great idea 
I was going to suggest that you strip and build the bike completely once or twice, to familiarise yourself completely with how it fits together, but you have already thought of that.
Also get a few thousand miles under your belt before you set off just to get used to what regular maintainance is necessary.
If you aren't in a hurry to do the journey and can do your own spanner work, I think it's achievable. Most parts are readily available and can be posted out to you should you need them.
I wish I was barking enough to want to try something like this, but I'm not. :cry:
Good luck.
I was going to suggest that you strip and build the bike completely once or twice, to familiarise yourself completely with how it fits together, but you have already thought of that.
Also get a few thousand miles under your belt before you set off just to get used to what regular maintainance is necessary.
If you aren't in a hurry to do the journey and can do your own spanner work, I think it's achievable. Most parts are readily available and can be posted out to you should you need them.
I wish I was barking enough to want to try something like this, but I'm not. :cry:
Good luck.
just one question: why not on a BMW GS (or any other new-and-reliable bike) as you say at the beginning?
Or why not on a simpler bike that everyone can fix but more reliable than a commando (maybe a Guzzi as someone else was suggesting, or a basic BMW like the R75/5 -I;ve done the last 60K Km on mine without having ANY trouble besides changing the clutch a couple of times and the bearings of the rear whell).
What' bringing you towards a commando ?
+ as everybody else is saying, ride one hard for long before you make a final decision.
I've ridden a royal enfield for a couple of months in the indian himalayas. and that is not a reliable bike either BUT anyone can fix it and there are spares at every corner shop. Not sure you'll find commando spares that easily round the world...
Or why not on a simpler bike that everyone can fix but more reliable than a commando (maybe a Guzzi as someone else was suggesting, or a basic BMW like the R75/5 -I;ve done the last 60K Km on mine without having ANY trouble besides changing the clutch a couple of times and the bearings of the rear whell).
What' bringing you towards a commando ?
+ as everybody else is saying, ride one hard for long before you make a final decision.
I've ridden a royal enfield for a couple of months in the indian himalayas. and that is not a reliable bike either BUT anyone can fix it and there are spares at every corner shop. Not sure you'll find commando spares that easily round the world...
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
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- 18,978
Why not just buy a luxury cruise ticket around the world and avoid the down sides of anything two wheeled?
Some of my gooder adventures meeting people was d/t stopping to diddle something or beg some help with trouble. Logic of normal people who think they will live forever or have family or work depending on them - does not apply to this guy or subject line. I am not yet up for such a burn your bridge phase of life right now but have been in past and each time started out in "scared confidence" that changed my life for the better in the long run.
Some of my gooder adventures meeting people was d/t stopping to diddle something or beg some help with trouble. Logic of normal people who think they will live forever or have family or work depending on them - does not apply to this guy or subject line. I am not yet up for such a burn your bridge phase of life right now but have been in past and each time started out in "scared confidence" that changed my life for the better in the long run.
think I've got to clarify one point there. I am not saying you should not do this with a commando. What I wanted to say is that reading from your post you do not seem to be (yet) in love with commandos then I wonder why you have such a plan why you want to do such an journey with that specific bike. If any of the many commando enthusiast on this forum expressed such an idea it would make perfect sense to me. As this comes from someone who has not ridden a commando yet I wonder what is behind this choice...
hope it's more clear.
hope it's more clear.
ashman
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- Jul 11, 2010
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- 6,459
Hi Henry
I recon go for it, I would get a 74 850 interstate, completely rebuild motor and gearbox (get the motor completely balanced for smoother running) do up all the surspention, new isoslatics, check the frame, belt dive primary (easy to carry a spare belt should you need it) a good big tool bag, a rack on the back as well heavy duty saddle bags, then head off, take your time, do all the maintenances when needed.
Let me know when you are in Australia, Brisbane as you will have a place to stay and I have a big shed for any repairs and with so many other members here all over the world you will get to meet some good poeple on your trip as well free places to stay.
So good luck for your trip, if I didn't have the family I would love to do a trip like that and as for a Norton I think it would survive the trip, maybe with a few things falling off on the way, also carry a few spare nuts and bolts, wire and cable ties.
Ashley
I recon go for it, I would get a 74 850 interstate, completely rebuild motor and gearbox (get the motor completely balanced for smoother running) do up all the surspention, new isoslatics, check the frame, belt dive primary (easy to carry a spare belt should you need it) a good big tool bag, a rack on the back as well heavy duty saddle bags, then head off, take your time, do all the maintenances when needed.
Let me know when you are in Australia, Brisbane as you will have a place to stay and I have a big shed for any repairs and with so many other members here all over the world you will get to meet some good poeple on your trip as well free places to stay.
So good luck for your trip, if I didn't have the family I would love to do a trip like that and as for a Norton I think it would survive the trip, maybe with a few things falling off on the way, also carry a few spare nuts and bolts, wire and cable ties.
Ashley
Local bike mag here has a story of a couple on a new Suzuki sports bike just did the UK to Oz trip. Said it was a doddle, just put petrol in it and rode.
Lotsa Commandos got to Oz this way back in their day - take lots of chain lube.
And a credit card and fax machine, so you can order parts to remote parts of the world.
And a good pair of goggles, for the desert bits.
Have fun...
Lotsa Commandos got to Oz this way back in their day - take lots of chain lube.
And a credit card and fax machine, so you can order parts to remote parts of the world.
And a good pair of goggles, for the desert bits.
Have fun...
At the heart of all of this is the question - Do you want the motorcycle to be a part of the adventure? If you do, take the Norton. If not, take something less needy. Sounds to me like you want the Norton to be a part of the journey and I think that's way cool. Just keep it simple and rebuildable, that's my motto.
Mike
Mike
Go for it. A well prepared Commando is perfectly capable of doing the trip. Example, a couple of years ago a bloke from up the road stopped in my driveway while I was getting my Commando out. He said had one too but it had been left in his shed for years and he now wanted to restore it. I asked him about it, he said he bought in new in 1972 and rode it from England through Africa then across Australia with the majority of the 20,000 miles on dirt roads! And he never had a problem that jeopardised the trip. Just did the usual maintenance, spare tubes, changed tyres and chain and oil and that was about it. On his own, no Ewen MacGregor and Charlie Borman on BM's with fleet of helicopters and ambulances.
Mick
Mick
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Go for it Henry, I am very jealous, You are most welcome in Christies Beach, as you would be any where in Aust. Plenty of Members over here to keep you in Bee, er
Wodka. Be aware of Aussie climate and long straight roads.
AC.
Wodka. Be aware of Aussie climate and long straight roads.
AC.
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- Feb 22, 2011
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- 572
Good ole Chez... Started out sane, ended up radical..
Made for a good movie, but bad for Batista Cubanos.
JD
Made for a good movie, but bad for Batista Cubanos.
JD
hobot said:One fella that made a Norton part of his life journey became an icon on radial Tee Shirts, so careful not to get sucked into that dead end. But think of the pictures we could drool over sitting comfy at home and work...
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Great choice. Great adventure. Go for it!
What other bike in the world is there that you can still get every single part for? Even those currently being manufactured! At worst you might get holed-up for a couple of days waiting for delivery. At best, nothing will break!
Qui audet adipiscitur: Who dares, wins.
What other bike in the world is there that you can still get every single part for? Even those currently being manufactured! At worst you might get holed-up for a couple of days waiting for delivery. At best, nothing will break!
Qui audet adipiscitur: Who dares, wins.
Orsonoce said:
Since I got into bikes and built a shed for working on them I've had an old enamel tin plate advert for the commando on the wall, I've never been able to afford one (I have a collection of ten bikes, but the most expensive one was 300 quid). Once I'd decided to do the trip there was only one choice! It's a drop-dead gorgeous machine, purely mechanical. One of the things I loved about my old Trophy (found in a shed, replaced the needles and it runs fine) was that there was nothing on the bike that didn't absolutely need to be there. I've got a BMW flying brick that I can't stand for the same reason - it's got a 4 kg adjustable motorised screen!??!
I'm not married to Elle MacPherson, but I don't need to be to know I'd jump straight on given half a chance!
pelican said:
I guess when I get back I'll write the book! One thing I've learned is not to worry about the future, just crack on with it. I might find somewhere I really like and stay around for a while, I might meet the girl of my dreams, hard to predict! I'll always be able to get a job doing something, and I'll always have friends I can stay with, so sticking around just for the security/millstone round my neck that is home ownership isn't that appealling to me
I think a Commando will make your trip something extra special. Lucky bugger.
If you keep on top of things as soon as they start to wear it will be easily capable. As long as you start with a good known bike.
Central and northern Australia can be very hot November to March. Not the best for old bikes.
Graeme
If you keep on top of things as soon as they start to wear it will be easily capable. As long as you start with a good known bike.
Central and northern Australia can be very hot November to March. Not the best for old bikes.
Graeme
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