No spark!

Surprisely, even with new spark plugs and "probably" everything ok, zero spark! Can anyone help?

Welcome to the forum!

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"Probably"
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I think we could do with a bit more information than that? Which model, electronic (if so which type?) or points ignition, etc.

Well I’d say that “probably” everything is NOT ok… coz if it was, it would spark !

Plugs first, then points.

Also check the wiring for a bad earth and ignition switch and kill switch.

AND test the battery - how many volts?

I just bought two new Champions, and check for continuity right out of the box. One had no continuity.

L.A.B. said:

I think we could do with a bit more information than that? Which model, electronic (if so which type?) or points ignition, etc.

Click to expand...

Commando from 1973 (frame 303348). No electronic, contact breakers (as original). Cleaned them with sand paper ......

carlosazevedo said:

Commando from 1973 (frame 303348). No electronic, contact breakers (as original). Cleaned them with sand paper ......

Click to expand...

Alright, so you've set the points gaps and statically timed it according to the manual instructions. You should have power as far as the ballast resistor through the white/yellow from the kill button then white/blue wires and then to both negative 6V coil terminals through white/purple and then to each set of points and condensers from the coil positives? Make sure the points wire terminals are positioned between the insulator and the spring (as below) and not fixed under the nuts.

"No electronic, contact breakers (as original). "



As noted by LAB, easy to place the wire terminals incorrectly (against the nut). Did you have spark BEFORE you did the replacement work? If so, it's directly related to whatever re-assembly was done.

New condensers depending on age too .

L.A.B. said:

Alright, so you've set the points gaps and statically timed it according to the manual instructions. You should have power as far as the ballast resistor through the white/yellow from the kill button then white/blue wires and then to both negative 6V coil terminals through white/purple and then to each set of points and condensers from the coil positives? Make sure the points wire terminals are positioned between the insulator and the spring (as below) and not fixed under the nuts.

Click to expand...

I just checked all the electrical circuit (?). There is power everywhere. I think the contact breakers should spark, but nothing. At the end, can it be from the condenser? Faulty? Maybe chaging the contact breakers and condenser something will hapen.

carlosazevedo said:

At the end, can it be from the condenser?

Click to expand...

It could be but I wouldn't expect both condensers to fail at the same time although I suppose it could happen and in any case the condensers generally stop the points from sparking it wouldn't necessarily prevent the engine from starting. I wouldn't expect the failure of both sets of points at once either.

This may have been said before.

The moving contact should be isolated from the engine casing when the points are open.

The moving contact should be live when the points are open and the ignition is switched on.

The moving contact should have continuity to the engine casing when the points are closed.

As per several comments - sure does sound like a short in the points connection! As stated earlier, it's really easy to install the points with the wire grounded (on the wrong side of the insulator!!!! Did you (OP) check/verify that??

Hi Carlos,
Let's troubleshoot this together.

In the first photo below, with your ignition on, (and engine not running!) turn the engine until you see the points on the right are open by seeing there is a gap between them. If you are not sure where to see the gap, please reply and I will send you a photo.

With your voltmeter set to at least 20 DC volts of range, put one test lead where the blue arrow points and the other test lead where the yellow arrow points. Which of the two leads does not matter for this test.
Measure the same for the red and black for the points on the left after rotating the engine to see the left points are open. (Note that in this picture below, the right points are open and the left points are closed. )
And please tell us what the meter says for right and for left in volts with ignition on.

In the second photo, with ignition off, rotate engine until the right points are closed and then set your voltmeter to Ohms "Ω"
The put the two leads where the blue arrow points and the yellow arrow points. It does not matter which leads go on which of the colours.
Please report what the meter reads.

Then in second photo, with ignition off, rotate engine until the left points are closed and put the voltmeter leads where the red and black arrows
point and measure the Ohms. You should read close to zero ohms
Please report what the meter reads

Dennis

Have you had progress yet with getting a spark?
Dennis