No need for the steering damper anymore...

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Today I went out for a bit after having removed the steering damper which was on the bike when I bought it. I had taken it off once before but the steering was definitely a bit tank-slappy after hitting any sort of bump so I put it back on.

But this time, I had recently changed the POs 18" rims with 120 rear, 100 front tires to oem 19" rims and 4.10 avon road runner tires on both ends. The POs 18" 120 rear tire was nearly 2" in diameter larger than the 100 front tire. This morning, without the damper, the steering was completely stable - no tendency toward tank slapping under any conditions and I looked for/found plenty of nice bumps/potholes to challenge. Max speed I was able to hit was 70 so perhaps it wasn't a complete test but it used to get twitchy even at 40 over bumps without the damper.

I didn't have a damper on my old 750 and it never exhibited any tendency to tank slap so I was always wondering why the 850 did it; Obviously it was the different diameter tires installed by the PO that was primarily responsible.

Regarding dampers/fork braces, etc...I recently read a quote that I thought was pretty good though I can't recall the specific article. It had to do with mods, including dampers and fork braces. A specific question was asked about the "improvement" gained with a Hyde Fork brace and the author stated something to the effect that a stock Norton Commando had lapped the Isle of Man course at over 100MPH with "no assistance needed by Mr Hyde."

I removed the PO's Hyde fork brace a while back because I found that it added considerable friction to the fork action because the brace itself was not true from upper to lower surface so the relationship of the forks did not remain parallel. This was an issue with the brace itself, not the eccentric bushings or the adjustment. The brace tried to make the forks closer together at the top than at the bottom.
 
Mike,

My 72 Combat used to shake it's head at high speed. That was with a WM2-19 front and rear with Avon Super Venoms . Finally wore out that rear Avon and replaced it with another Avon Super Venon. Same size, same tire, only new. Gone were the high speed shakes. I now run a rear Dunlop GT 501 120/90-18 and a WM4-18 with no problems whatsoever. This experience left me to conclude the Norton, with it's unique isolastics, is susceptible to any imperfection in tire or mounting. This rim /tire size debate does resemble the "Great Oil Debate".
 
And of course, changing tire sizes changes the rake of the steering head....and thus...trail. Who says I never pay attention in class?
 
JimC said:
Mike,

My 72 Combat used to shake it's head at high speed. That was with a WM2-19 front and rear with Avon Super Venoms . Finally wore out that rear Avon and replaced it with another Avon Super Venon. Same size, same tire, only new. Gone were the high speed shakes. I now run a rear Dunlop GT 501 120/90-18 and a WM4-18 with no problems whatsoever. This experience left me to conclude the Norton, with it's unique isolastics, is susceptible to any imperfection in tire or mounting. This rim /tire size debate does resemble the "Great Oil Debate".

Actually tire construction with the same tyre model can vary. Motorcycles are inherently more susceptible to these variations.
 
MexicoMike said:
I removed the PO's Hyde fork brace a while back because I found that it added considerable friction to the fork action because the brace itself was not true from upper to lower surface so the relationship of the forks did not remain parallel. This was an issue with the brace itself, not the eccentric bushings or the adjustment. The brace tried to make the forks closer together at the top than at the bottom

Also noted the same fault and consisdering if the brace is worth the hassel, had to actually measure the tubes with out the brace and then try and and reset the measurement with the brace fitted, although I do notice the difference when trying to change direction when braking, but.......
 
rvich said:
And of course, changing tire sizes changes the rake of the steering head....and thus...trail. Who says I never pay attention in class?


In my case the 18" tire I'm running is 1/10" more in diameter than the original 19" tire. I doubt the change in rake could even be measured, let alone have any effect. Difference in rider weight could easily account for more of a change in trail then the tire size. For that matter, is the stock trail ideal?
 
Sorry Jim,
I thought Mike said he had a two-inch differrence. I didn't realize we were talking about 1/10 of an inch. My mistake.
 
rvich said:
Sorry Jim,
I thought Mike said he had a two-inch differrence. I didn't realize we were talking about 1/10 of an inch. My mistake.
Mike did say two inch difference, between front and rear. I was referring to the difference between the 19" and 18" rear only.
 
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