Hi all, in trying to make the clutch adjustment in the primary, (clutch slips in 3rd and 4th gear) I am unable to keep the clutch pack from turning when I try to loosen the adjusting nut. I have it in 4th gear, brake is on , but everything still turns. I have tried this with the slack taken out of the clutch cable and with the cable completely loose, makes no difference. I have a great mechanic but hate to bother him all the time and I want to learn on my own, so I guess I'll bother everyone on the forum instead. I enjoy the forum immensely and love the passion that you all have. (It is a 1972 Commando,titled as a 1973) Thank you, Jeff
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DogT
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Sounds like the diaphragm is not completely engaging the clutch pack. I'd go through the complete clutch adjustment by the book. Only thing I do different on mine is when it comes to loosening the clutch rod adjuster stud, I only loosen it less than 1/4 turn. There are plenty of clutch threads but the instructions in the riders manual is spot on.
Welcome.
Dave
69S
Welcome.
Dave
69S
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Some times the way to loosen off a stubbon nut is to shock it loose , try using a 1/2" drive rattle gun with a impact socket of course yes this is a good sight .
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Try Heat on the bugger as its so prone to come undone on its own might be locktited on. Suggest oil caked plates for the clutch slip on power more than the cable adjustment. Its also possible, ugh, that the nut on RH of main shaft has backed off so takes up the adjuster nut slack. Must open tranny cover to get to that, ugh. The plate stack could be worn down but when about right the diaph. spring will just slide into its groove w/o hardly any slack and not force to get in. Takes special variety of compressor device to do the spring. Of must jam stuff or clamp chain to stop basket from turning at times.
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I had the same problem a while back. I have an electric impact gun from Harbor Freight that easily got that nut loose. Overall it's a pretty worthless tool (doesn't generate enough torque for the big jobs) but it worked great for this.
Good luck with the project and post some photos!
Debby
Good luck with the project and post some photos!
Debby
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Plus there is gearbox oil contamination of plates causing slippage. The gearbox oil follows the pushrod to the clutch. There is a seal kit for this. Some smear grease on the pushrod to stop oil travel too.
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Instead of trying to turn the nut, give it an impact. That might jar it loose.
Thanks to all who replied. I used the impact wrench and the nut came off instantly.Backed the adjusting screw off a little more than a 1/4 turn. Went for a ride and I think that did the trick. Just looking at my original post guess I now need advice on spelling. (Motorcycles).
Jeff
Jeff
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I think I would back off between 1/2 to 3/4 out from seated on the threaded slot head adjuster bolt.
Reason being that as the clutch pack gets hot from riding it expands and thus needs more room than just 1/4 or so
which may be fine for short rides now in cooler weather but an issue when primary/clutch gets hot
Reason being that as the clutch pack gets hot from riding it expands and thus needs more room than just 1/4 or so
which may be fine for short rides now in cooler weather but an issue when primary/clutch gets hot
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