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- Nov 11, 2013
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- 5,396
Yes. I have them on and they are fine.Not to go too far astray with the thread, but do the Koni-Ikon_ clear the chain guard sufficiently?
Yes. I have them on and they are fine.Not to go too far astray with the thread, but do the Koni-Ikon_ clear the chain guard sufficiently?
When you have them apart do look at the seals as well. Ludwig is spot on.Forks built but I’m not happy with them as they have a bit of stiction. I suspect the bottom bushes which were a very snug fit (the wear was mostly in the top bushes prior to replacement and the new top bush/stanchion combination is a perfect sliding fit). I’m busy all weekend so it will be next week before I strip them and have a further look.
Dave
LudwigOriginal fork seals have too much stiction .
I prefer Ariete 003T seals , but you have to remove some of the outer coating to get them in .
Less stiction , seals better , last longer ..
KommandoThe part number is in Ludwig's post.
Do you have a fork brace? I found that the Hyde fork brace on my Commando when I bought it caused sticktion because it slightly misaligned the forks. This happened regardless of the adjustments present in the brace. I discovered this when I rebuilt the forks/added the Fauth mod shortly after buying the bike in '06. After futzing around with the adjustments to try to eliminate the issue, the only thing that worked was removing the brace. I pitched the brace in a trash can and the forks have been excellent ever since.
Dellis :
Screw you assembled Landsdowne dampers in the new stanchions ( without the sliders )
Then look at the bottom if the damper bodys are perfectly concentric in the stanchions .
If so : fine .
If not : you have a problem that is not easy to correct .
Jack up put stand under front iso mount to get front wheel off ground. Unscrew top nuts on forks and stroke whole front end. Loosen fender, axle one thing at a time till stiction goes away. Misalignment, chrome tubes not straight or round, pocket in bottom of slider not square to bore can make damper rod crooked to bore when bottom bolts tightened. Its gotta be one of these
Could be as simple as the mudguard and stays, if you need to pull on a stay to get the bolt to line up then over bend the stay until its natural position is directly over the bolt hole. And bounce the suspension after every step, don't stop after tightening the bottom yoke bolts, carry on after each of the next steps.
What I mean is :
If any of the screw theads involved to hold the damper rod ( top nut inner and outer , stanchion inner , damper rod ..) is only slighty out of square , the damper rod will not sit straight ( parallel ) in the stanchion , resulting in extra friction between the damper tube , damper cap and piston .