New Product - Turcite Fork Bushings

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Now available at JSmotorsport.com

Slippery, longer lasting Turcite Fork Bushings reduce wear on fork tubes and reduce friction for smoother ride. The slit allows the bushings to have a more precise (tighter) fit without binding when temperatures are too hot or cold.

Jim S

New Product - Turcite Fork Bushings
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

Sorry, but I do have to ask. How can those splits take up any clearance of smaller tubes?
Do you put shim behind the bushes?
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

Hi, if they were slit less (I wonder would that make them male?) and the top bushes were longer to utilize the end of travel hydraulic cushion I would be tempted. Any chance?
 
The slits allow the bushing to give one way or the other over various temperature changes. This way I can give you a bushing with tighter clearance that won't bind up.

The longer bushings mentioned gets around the problem of too short dampner rods from limiting fork travel and clanking. But they don't solve the problem - the forks still clank at full extension because the now upper & lower bushings collide. The problem is the 1/8' hole near the lower bushing. The solution for a hydraulic stop at full extension is to plug the 1/8" diameter hole near the lower bush. I forced a short piece of 1/8" brass rod into the hole so it was barely below the surface and would not damage the upper bushing. This creates a hydraulic stop 1/2" before full extension. I've tested it and it works great, no more clanking. To make this work you must either install longer dampner rods that don't top out or longer upper bushings or the RGM tube (coventry sleeve) between the bushings.
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

Thank you for your prompt response.
I'm afraid the slits and lack of a longer top hat option are a showstopper for me.
All the best.
 
Antrimman

All the bushings are machined without slits. I only slit them one set at a time before I sell them - so yes they are available without slits. But I don't advise it because with the slits I can make them to a more precise tolerance (tighter fit) than without slits. Without the slits, bushings can bind if the tolerance is close and the temperature is too hot or too cold. The 1/32" slits cause no problem whatsoever.

The only way to create a hydraulic stop at full extension is to plug the 1/8" hole at the bottom of the fork tube or install an RGM type tube (coventry sleeve) that covers up that 1/8" hole BEFORE the forks get near full extension so there is some oil trapped between the two bushings. With that 1/8" hole there is not enough distance or oil above the lower bushing to trap the oil and make an effective hydraulic stop. But this will only work if - you install longer dampner rods that don't limit your travel or use the RGM tubes or longer upper bushings. I haven't tested the RGM tube but it seems like the easiest solution, it presses snugly into the top of the fork leg, beneath the upper bushing so it won't slip downward. Note that the 1/8" hole still needs to be plugged to avoid clanking.

Read more detailed explanations about these problems & fixes at:
http://atlanticgreen.com/forks.htm
and
http://www.nocnsw.org.au/forks.html

Jim S
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

Hmm, I have only one issue I can think of on Peel's Roadholders, they oscillate so fast in line of drive I can't see the axle but as a blur. Only thing I can detect doing this is the slack in the top bushes when forks unsupported and moved fro/aft. Two sets of new brass ones rounded well on stanchions were looser yet so gave up on factory variety. I can not feel this oscillation just see it but makes me pensive if it ever hums into same harmonics as tire squeal it may surprise me. I have no sense of it affecting handling or lines at all but still makes me pensive I ain't yet found that combo of conditions where it will. I'll take a set thank you now I understand the slit function insight. If they have some innate weakness to binding shock impact loads, I'll be testing next year an d let ya know.

Interesting way to get top out hydro stop Jim. Will have to study forks again to understand what ya figured out.
I got Peels by longer damper rod and spring spacers but you still have to compress fork a tad over 6" before its stops softly.
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

hobot said:
Hmm, I have only one issue I can think of on Peel's Roadholders, they oscillate so fast in line of drive I can't see the axle but as a blur. Only thing I can detect doing this is the slack in the top bushes when forks unsupported and moved fro/aft. Two sets of new brass ones rounded well on stanchions were looser yet so gave up on factory variety. I can not feel this oscillation just see it but makes me pensive if it ever hums into same harmonics as tire squeal it may surprise me.

You might want to balance that wheel.
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

You might want to balance that wheel.

Not a bad idea yet mostly had, but that don't affect the ~1/16" slack I can get at the axle distance from the top bushes. I have great respect for any one pressing a C'do to induce its handling quirks, I don't ever intend to enter that territory on a normal C'do ever again in my life time as may be the last time.

On the other hand I have almost no respect for any other motorcycle handling than Ms Peel. Realize she has driven me stark raving mad 24/7, not even as intense as finding dead younger brother a few years ago. Where ya see others having tank slappers or sliding rear out is merely the end of low orbit ho hum phase 2 on Peel and the beginning of what's on my mind and heart - 3 further faster ways around > to turn every turn into a sharper decreasing radius or a series of no let off straights... So Peels needs don't relate to anything others know about as all others try to avoid Peel's extra states of easy glee -at all costs- including loss of racing careers in chicanes instead of losing life itself. I must do the same on moderns too of course, as they are all deadly corner cripples no one knows how to solve but by 'puter cutting power before and into apexes.

The blur that concerns me ONLY happens when front is lifted out of traction by power planting in phase 3 Straight Steering [not ho hum counter steering] but not yet completely lifted off surface so is sliding skewed for a few yds till path opens enough to let me pull her trigger >by let off - for frame sling-shot-un-wrap of stored energy or- >by more power for over 60' degree laid over sideways wheelie. With 2" lifted Peel I hope to need dolly wheels on bars nearing 70' degrees lean. Peel can squash skinny rear patch down wider don't ya know - so can hook up more power than other cycles No Matter Their Power Potential.

While front is still in more or less surface contact there is some drag on it yet and I have to predict-sense this to compensate for that -until tire & drag effect completely disappears to let the Real Boss have its way like a unicycle. I fear that the slight fork blur oscillation fro/aft may surprise me unpredictably into a bluff face, over railings or into a truck grill that's cutting corners into my blind lane. So far I've not been able to really let Peel's hair out because I do not allow my self the luxury to ever use more than half a lane path on tarmac in public. Yes that's how secure Ms Peel is and you better believe this don't apply to no other cycle on pavement set up or SPLAT! MX bikes hooked in a vertical wall rut and ice spiked Speedway racers are what Peel can do on on dual purpose tractor tires on tarmac. Can't hardly wait for real race tire grip next year.

I Know the Front will go away on Peel, Hell that's where her Real Fun begins, but it must happen on my terms not by surprise.

One of the most wonderful-flabbergasting things about rump tri-rod'd Peel Commando - is every nuance of harmonics gets through clearly on its source and its influence on grip and handling. So this fork oscillation-blur is last mystery-phenomena to me as I can not feel it through bars or in traction line holding or skewed sliding effects BUT its Ms Peel -not a corner cripple- so she Also has to deal with the wind eddies on forks in this half steering half sliding state PLUS the lift-drops of ground effects of air trapped between me/bike and the road surface. One the reasons for OIF is to be rid of the aero dynamics of side covers and I may need Sperm Whale fin knobs to get even more out of her. How much of that do you read about on them fancy 'puterized elites, pashaw. if ya can't leave phase 2 handling then its not up to Peel's need of fighter pilot breath forcing to keep vision focus working fast enough.

No Engine Harmonics get though, Peel her self essentially disappears to my sensation of her but for SHOVES forward as there is nil sense of side flings on pilot after Phase 2 is left far behind, like a shift or two faster than you can conceive possible. Was for me too after corner school and my own modern corner famous SV650 on non DOT race tires.

The main reason for big block blown Peel ain't the sprints - its to explore phase 4 and 5 handling that's simply too fast of action of forks for a human to do, only pure power response can trip her out and hi side her in time after time through 10-15 mph bluff face rough ancient wagon trails nearing red line in 21T 850 ratio 2nd gear -60>90 mph. I measure Peel's time through sharps by parts of a heart beat not long drawn out breath holding time.

Ms Peel may be the Only cycle to really appreciate what Jim Schimdt and his piss ant attitude has actually accomplished. Its likely wasted efforts for most of ya RoadHolder C'do's.

hohohobot throwing Peel's power spirals right into Earth's Core yet missing...
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

I love new stuff for our old bikes, here's what came up on a search---Turkite® (Ethylene chloro tri fluoro ethlyene [ECTFE]) is a high-quality, internally lubricated material that is ideal for applications with demanding wear and friction requirements. Its low water absorption enables components made with Turkite® to retain their integrity over long periods.

Turkite® has excellent moisture resistance dimensional stability high fatigue, chemical, and corrosion resistance volume resistivity with low dielectric constant
when i get around to rebuilding my front end I'll certainly install these. Cj
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

So if this new Turkite stuff is so good. How about using it as a swing arm bush next ??


Tim_S
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

Tim_S said:
So if this new Turkite stuff is so good. How about using it as a swing arm bush next ??


Tim_S

It might not work as some things might work good with sliding but they may not take load.
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

Tim_S said:
So if this new Turkite stuff is so good. How about using it as a swing arm bush next ??


Tim_S
Plastic as a poor modulus,it would spread under load. forks OK swing arm No.
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

My XS650 has plastic swingarm bushings. There is a reason bronze bushing and needle bearing kits exist!
 
Re: New Product - Turkite Fork Bushings

Seems to me the best solution is to fit Jim's Turkite bushes AND JRB's Lansdowne dampers. You will then have front suspension that actually works.
 
"Seems to me the best solution is to fit Jim's Turkite bushes AND JRB's Lansdowne dampers. You will then have front suspension that actually works." My Thoughts exactly. Cj
 
Jim,

Sent off an email to you with a fitment issue. Seems that the top bush is too large an O.D. once fitted on the fork tube. It wont slide into the fork leg, there's an interference issue.
I don't want to force it in as that would deform the part and really mess up my day as these are not inexpensive bits.
Fork tube diameter is 1.3585"
With the slit, the bushing expands and if the wall of the bushing were "just" a bit thinner it would have fit with no problem. As it is the Turcite part is an interference fit and if "hammered" in, not only deform the soft part, it would create a binding situatation and prevent smooth fork movement.

JD
 
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