New owner - first 24hrs

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Oh heck, nervous about messing this up although I suppose it wont run any worse than it is now. Would you say follow the above exactly then by backing off the screw then carefully turning till it touches then a 1/4 turn or just give it a 1/4 turn from where it is now. If I do the latter, at least i can turn it back a 1/4 to where it started.
 
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Oh heck, nervous about messing this up although I suppose it wont run any worse than it is now. Would you say follow the above exactly then by backing off the screw then carefully turning till it touches then a 1/4 turn or just give it a 1/4 turn from where it is now. If I do the latter, at least i can turn it back a 1/4 to where it started.


Important!!!! If you crack it loose you’ll need a nut. Norton sets it and peens it in place. Read my manual first. Id say Norton has been great at setting it right but there is always human error. Nothing bad will happen if you turn it. But if you turn it and don’t add a nut, then it will vibrate out of position until you do add a nut.
 
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Hi - they may have set it right at the factory, but it might be like my one which worked it’s way loose resulting in the bike cutting out like your one is. I read Richard’s manual and had a look at the bike - no screw. Found it behind the stater motor!
It’s easy to adjust though if you follow Richard’s manual - but you need to add a locking nut, and I put some locktight on mine
 

Clive

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Do you think it is worth giving it a quarter turn then? can you take a pic of it so I wouldn't turn the wrong thing
You could do a few careful miles and see if any improvement....

There are enough descriptions in the forum of how to let it warm up then carefully adjust, otherwise a factory visit. Does Clem think it could be anything other than this adjustment being out? - The last thing you want is a warranty problem.

Above all I would regard it as a safety issue at present so don't take any chances. Bhphorseguy has posted some details are there any other views from anyone who has made this adjustment
Hi - they may have set it right at the factory, but it might be like my one which worked it’s way loose resulting in the bike cutting out like your one is. I read Richard’s manual and had a look at the bike - no screw. Found it behind the stater motor!
It’s easy to adjust though if you follow Richard’s manual - but you need to add a locking nut, and I put some locktight on mine
Thought 1 - if it was running fine when set at factory why was it out with no miles on the clock?
Thought 2 - If the adjustment is so critical it possible to put a temporary bit of tape/foil/shim material on the piece that the stop buts against, or around the screw? even if it lasts long enough to go round the block a couple of times it might give an indication if adjusting the screw would work.

####### Make absolutely sure no chance of interfering with throttle movement. ######
 
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Fast Eddie

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The bike is so new though...

... before fiddling with anything I’d want to see what it’s like after ensuring the battery is fully charged, the tank is full of fresh - good quality - fuel, and given a good ride up to proper operating temperature.

It only happens at tick over right? That’s almost normal for old Amals, so those of us blessed, or cursed, with the experience of riding old Brits with old Amals are quite used to using ones throttle hand as a tick over regulator!

Seriously, my point is that this shouldn’t be seen as a ‘ride stopper’ at this stage of the game.
 
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The bike is so new though...

... before fiddling with anything I’d want to see what it’s like after ensuring the battery is fully charged, the tank is full of fresh - good quality - fuel, and given a good ride up to proper operating temperature.

It only happens at tick over right? That’s almost normal for old Amals, so those of us blessed, or cursed, with the experience of riding old Brits with old Amals are quite used to using ones throttle hand as a tick over regulator!

Seriously, my point is that this shouldn’t be seen as a ‘ride stopper’ at this stage of the game.
It definitely takes away from the fun of a new bike and is a pita! Follow my instructions and you will be much happier. Mark the screw with a bit of magic marker if you don't want to count the turns. You can turn it back in 5 seconds either way, no one will ever know. Many bikes were delivered mis-adjusted, I doubt it's different now, the bike needs to be ridden before you can do this perfectly, dealers don' do it, period!
 
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Guys it is winter in the UK right??? Your brand new bike was probably not fully road tested right. If you get a lucky warm spell with clean roads then you will have to adjust the screw no one else!!! At least that is the way it seemed to happen in the US when the first batch hit us just before winter!
 

comet

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When I was talking to the factory last year about resolving an ongoing running issue, I was told that I needed to upgrade my SC ECU to the newer Omex one and replace the throttle body. I was looking at a bill around £1600.

The reason given for the new throttle body was that owners had “fiddled” with the adjustment screw and that this was preset using a vacuum setting and should not be touched. The fact that the screw was peened in place did appear to support this explanation (in my limited technical view anyway). The only way that the factory could guarantee the resolution of my issue was with a new throttle body. As it turned out we didn’t go down this route, but I am now confused about this adjustment screw as what I am reading here contradicts what the factory told me.

In a separate post Richard-7 refers to the setting being achieved via software. Isn’t this something that the factory would have access to?
 
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When I was talking to the factory last year about resolving an ongoing running issue, I was told that I needed to upgrade my SC ECU to the newer Omex one and replace the throttle body. I was looking at a bill around £1600.

The reason given for the new throttle body was that owners had “fiddled” with the adjustment screw and that this was preset using a vacuum setting and should not be touched. The fact that the screw was peened in place did appear to support this explanation (in my limited technical view anyway). The only way that the factory could guarantee the resolution of my issue was with a new throttle body. As it turned out we didn’t go down this route, but I am now confused about this adjustment screw as what I am reading here contradicts what the factory told me.

In a separate post Richard-7 refers to the setting being achieved via software. Isn’t this something that the factory would have access to?

Yes, its the standard factory software ALL dealers have. Most of the bikes in Canada that we had issues with the throttle screw was because it vibrates out of position meaning the peen wasn’t done right. Human error is almost every peoblem with these bikes. Lack of experience by assemblers. Its not their fault. I’m sure they are trying the best of their abilities. So we adjust to the software and counted the turns. Then I did to a few bikes without the software for practice before sharing and sure enough I was correct. So yes, the factory does set it. And I’m sure they are better at it now than in 2013 but here’s something to consider. That metal tab that hits the set screw is s soft and wears. So in a daily rider. That will eventually need tweaking a few times over its lifetime.

Hope this helps.
 
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Guys,

Do not adjust the screw. We go to lengths to ensure this doesn't vibrate lose like it did all those years ago, lesson learnt. The throttle bodies are set at the supplier and should not be adjusted. The ECU will not work properly if this is adjusted by the owner.

If the bike stops running properly and ends up back here you will be charged for putting it right, fiddling is not covered under warranty. Please be aware we have had catastrophic engine failures entirely attributable to this.

Also we have very different software to dealers, we can adjust, data-log and look at many more parameters.

Thanks

Simon
 

contours

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After following this thread to this point I can only say I hope I don't run into this problem on mine. :confused:
 
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Finally after several weeks of ownership I have got my new Cafe back together and don't appear to be missing any fasteners! The tank was a bugger to get seated properly and after probing around with a torch I could see that it was snagging on a -ve battery cable which I had accidently re-routed. She took several attempts to fire up but the Shorai held up well and I managed to warm her up close to operating temp just sitting in my shed, blipped throttle a few times, even took her up to 3k rpm briefly and on each occasion she settled back to around 1400rpm. Oil level was fine, dash lights were fine. Reset the clock, strange observation on the odometer and trip which are now showing 40mile and 25mile when I swear they were both showing 19 mile when I parked her up straight after the pdi... o_O

I fired her up again after resting for 5 mins to mimic stopping for fuel and she behaved perfectly. I let her rest for 30mins and fired her up again and all was well. My only concern was the strange bag of noises which the engine produced after the first start and warm up, it sounded like a hammer drill randomly coming from the gearbox which knocked away for 10 seconds, then faded away for 10secs, then came back for 10secs etc etc. I didn't get this noise on the 2nd or 3rd start up. I did snick her into 1st gear and rode all 3 yards to the shed wall and she felt fine :)

Only a week or so and the bike will be ready for my first road trip. Anyone else feel intimidated prior to their first ride on a Cafe? Those clip-ons are low, and that tank is a long stretch for someone who's 5ft 9ins, and my feet barely touch the ground.... I am getting very sweaty palms just thinking about my first trip out :eek:
 

BritTwit

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One of my friends is 5'8" and he has a technique for handling seat height issues.
He shifts his weight on the seat to prepare of stops so he can get most of his foot flat on the ground before coming to a halt.
Nothing to be intimidated by. Just focus on the technique. After a while it will be come natural.
I'm 6'2" so the reach to bars is not a problem for me. It's actually less straining than my Ducati 999.
At 5'9" it will probably be fine for you to a distance, but after a while you will surely feel it in you back.
Just make frequent stops, and take breaks to relax your back.

Make sure that you protect the rear of the tank from the rubbing of your pants or zipper.
One benefit of your height is that your knees will nicely fit the tank side indents.

Cheers
 

Fast Eddie

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Hey Mark,

I’m glad you said the tank fitting was a faff, I thought it was just me. And the seat, getting the bolts back in seems inordinately difficult to me!

Interesting what you say about it starting. You do know the drill I assume, ie DO NOT touch the twistgrip whilst starting?

Mine tended to take 2-3 goes before it’d fire up nicely. When I fitted the Shorai, I also fitted iridium plugs and Magnecor leads. I have NO IDEA what difference these make. But it fired up first press after re assembly, and has done so several times since.

The fuel light is on now though, so my first ever run will be to the petrol station.

I gotta work on Thur and Fri (1st and 2nd) and am away on the Sunday, so I am seriously hoping for nice weather on the Saturday !

I can hardly wait...
 
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Nothing to be intimidated by. Just focus on the technique. After a while it will be come natural.
You are right, I felt exactly the same way when I prepared for my first ride on the Thruxton last Summer but I now hop on and off like it's nothing.

At 5'9" it will probably be fine for you to a distance, but after a while you will surely feel it in you back.
I worried about my back when again, I took the Triumph out. It has clip-ons but they are on 1inch risers. I could only manage 30mile on my first ride but now enjoy a 100mile ride without probs. The Norton is that bit lower so I keep my fingers crossed.

Make sure that you protect the rear of the tank from the rubbing of your pants or zipper.
That crossed my mind, I am sitting hard against the back of the tank. Any recommendations without spoiling the lines of the bike?

One benefit of your height is that your knees will nicely fit the tank side indents.
Yep, my legs tuc in nicely, might even put on tank knee protectors to stop the rubbing :)
 
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Hey Mark,

I’m glad you said the tank fitting was a faff, I thought it was just me. And the seat, getting the bolts back in seems inordinately difficult to me!

Interesting what you say about it starting. You do know the drill I assume, ie DO NOT touch the twistgrip whilst starting?

Mine tended to take 2-3 goes before it’d fire up nicely. When I fitted the Shorai, I also fitted iridium plugs and Magnecor leads. I have NO IDEA what difference these make. But it fired up first press after re assembly, and has done so several times since.

The fuel light is on now though, so my first ever run will be to the petrol station.

I gotta work on Thur and Fri (1st and 2nd) and am away on the Sunday, so I am seriously hoping for nice weather on the Saturday !

I can hardly wait...
Mine has been a reliable starter so far, usualy first push. I have had the tank off for best part of a fortnight and I think the fuel lines were bone dry which is why it took 4 or 5 attempts to fire up after tank went on.

I have so many bits of equipment in my barn that run on regular unleaded that I keep a supply of 4 x 10litre jerry cans topped up so I rarely take the bikes to a station to fill up lol

I haven't heard from Norton about registration.... I am assuming that Olivia is still planning for the 1st March, I will give her a call. You and me both are hoping for some nice weather at the beginning of the month :)
 
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