New member wants old bike

I have been shopping for a Norton to replace the one I sold 30+ years ago. I am taking my time and learning so much here. My question has to do with the bikes I have seen advertised that are supposedly very low mileage having spent most of their life in storage. Assuming this is true, what potential problems are there with a bike that was recently put into service after a long nap? I imagine many bikes are simply parked while others may have been "properly" stored longterm . Never the less, are there seals that may dry out, possible internal corrosion,etc.? There is a certain appeal in buying a Norton that has not been "wrenched on" but it may be a liability in my mind. What should I look for? Thanks, Gary

The rewards AND pitfalls are too often impossible to know, even when a significant part of the history is known.

No two Commandos are alike, even when close in serial number range; sitting "out" can do strange things to an old bike.

I hope you find a good one, there are plenty of them out there...

Unless you personally know the history of a bike you have to assume that it will need work.

The amount of work also depends on what you want to do with the bike, a completely original one or a daily rider.

It's been said here many times that a "barn fresh" non-runner will most likely cost more to bring back than a basic runner. There aren't really any cheap ways around it. Even paying for a "restored" bike is a chance unless you know the person who did the work.

You just have to figure out when you want to pay:

$5k for a basic runner and $10k in restoration

or

$10k for a restored bike and $5k in making it what you want.

:mrgreen:

In September of '09 I bought a 750 that had been sitting in the back of a heated shop for 20 years. The major pieces on this bike were basically just exactly what you would have expected from a low milage bike that you might have bought in 1978. With some major exceptions, the rubber everywhere was shot, so new tires, isolastics and seals. It still needed a layshaft bearing upgrade. The shocks were shot and the forks needed attention. The carbs needed rebuilt. The wiring needed to be upgraded as the old bullet connectors were fatigued and cracked. Switches needed cleaned. The swingarm needed attention. Basically, the bike needed to be disassembled and put back together using new gaskets, seals, etc. The only thing I did not do was tear down the motor. Was it worth it? You bet! Was I glad that after getting back into Nortons after a 30 year sleep that I didn't have a basket case to start on? You bet! It was easy to get this bike out on the road and not very expensive. Mostly it just needed attention. But you take your chances with any 35 or 40 year old bike. Even one stored well might have sat with valves open for long periods that can affect seats and springs.

Now I have a basket case project in the works, and I am glad to have a runner to play with while I sort out the other. The basket case is actually lower milage than my runner, it just never got stored properly. But I would still rather work on a bike that was neglected than one that was abused. That is just me. My advice, fwiw (not much) is to buy as much bike as you can afford and get out riding as soon as possible.

Russ

Let me put this another way. While there may be obvious issues present even to my untrained eye, such as cracked rubber, surface corrosion and so on, are there any tell-tale signs of potentially serious issues with a running bike, something internal, engine trans, forks? Thanks again, Gary

Kickstart lever wanting to drop as you ride shows the layshaft bearing on the driveside needs changing for a roller instead of a ball, stop immediately and walk (but it is fixable but don't ride the bike until its fixed).

Rest of it is listening for noises and checking for play in fork and wheel bearings etc, but if the rear wheel moves from side to side this could be swingarm bearings, loose Isolastics or the shaft is not being supported by the gearbox cradle. All fixable in varying degress from simple to a days work.

The chances are good that unless you're really sharp and experienced (like a lot of the guys on this here forum!), you're going to fare like the rest of us shlubs and discover things that need attention, big and small, as you go along. Caveat emptor, when it comes to these bikes......

Unless you really know the history of the bike, it is hard to tell what you will be buying. I bought an 'S' back in 72 with 4K on it, ran it until 80 or so, put it away, not nice in a barn, and started rebuilding in in 03, finished last year. Even though I knew pretty much what I had, I rebuilt the whole thing, cost about $7K, but I know exactly what is in it. If you have the bucks, you can get a CNW bike for $25-30K as I understand and you won't have to worry about it.

Most likely unless you find a real clean one for $7-10K you will be putting a lot of time and money in it to start, unless you just want a rag runner.

If you can get someone that knows Nortons to inspect the bike with you.

Dave
69S

Actually, IN SOME CASES, $5K can get you a very nice Norton that will run for many years with no more than GTO (gas, tires & oil).

Spending upwards of $7,500 should mean you have a verifiable record of maintenance and refurb/overhaul with name(s) of parties having been responsible for same.

Actually, IN SOME CASES, $5K can get you a very nice Norton that will run for many years with no more than GTO (gas, tires & oil).

Spending upwards of $7,500 should mean you have a verifiable record of maintenance and refurb/overhaul with name(s) of parties having been responsible for same.

Click to expand...

Now there's a case for people to buy their bikes from you!! If you can manage that as a general standard, , it would take a lot of the guesswork and worry out of it.

There are PLENTY of well-known, well-reputed BritBike businesspeople around, YOU JUST HAVE TO DO A LITTLE HOMEWORK.

Asking around on forums like this one is a great first step.

Lots of folks bad-mouth e-bay, but I've only been "burned" once, and it was a small-ticket item. Maybe I'm beating the odds, but I read the ads pretty carefully, NEVER READ ANYTHING INTO THEM, and try to talk to the seller personally. You can learn a lot in one 10-15 minute phone call that you'll never pick up from reading an auction listing.

Buying through E-bay and Paypal, while many despise it, gives you several guarantees; using a credit card can give you several more.

WHENEVER POSSIBLE, have someone local (and knowledgeable on brand/model) check the bike out in person.

gmlaverda said:

I have been shopping for a Norton to replace the one I sold 30+ years ago.

Click to expand...

Well, you had one 30 years ago? I promise, they haven't changed much. If you had a handle on your previous Norton, and if you're anything like me, it is in your soul, you'll know a good one when you see and hear. The hard part is keeping your emotions in check.

pvisseriii said:

gmlaverda said:

I have been shopping for a Norton to replace the one I sold 30+ years ago.

Click to expand...

Well, you had one 30 years ago? I promise, they haven't changed much. If you had a handle on your previous Norton, and if you're anything like me, it is in your soul, you'll know a good one when you see and hear. The hard part is keeping your emotions in check.

Click to expand...

The two best days in the life of a motorcyclist are the day that you purchase a new-to-you bike and the day that you sell it...Dreaming about running into the widow of the guy that owned 4 CNW builds that she wants to "clear out" for cheap money, is just that a pleasant dream ( my favorite, actually).

I think that pvisseriii nailed it when he said that you'll know what to buy when you see it; plan on spending between $5K and $10K to satisfy your ego, AFTER YOU BRING IT HOME...

RS

Widow? Hell, divorcee!

When I finally sprang for my bike it came down to how much money I might spend traveling the country looking for the right one as opposed to finally just doing it and getting started. Travelling around shopping for bikes might be a nice way to take vacations but from where I live it gets expensive. It is still debatable as to whether or not I paid the right price but the bike fit my qualifications.

My punch list was:
(not necessarily in order of importance)

-steel tank
-complete bike
-not modified from stock (thus making it possible to work on it from the manual and for me to choose the mods)
-able to start and drive (not necessarily ready for the road)
-fasteners and components not showing signs of being wrenched on by idiots (I hate rounded bolts, stripped screw heads and broken fasteners and to me they are a sign that the mechanic was not really a mechanic)

Russ

Welcome fellow Lafayettian. My “excellent condition 4200 firm" ’73 850 has around 2 grand in it and it’s still not even a 10 footer (looks and acts great as long as you stay 10 feet away).

You should know about:

http://www.rabers.com/ / They have donor bikes and I have been quoted a rebuilt starting at 8K.

http://www.nortonclub.com/ Good idea to get to know these guys and maybe join.

http://www.oldbritts.com/nor_comm_73.html Old Britts. I copied the Parts Manual for my bike.

This forum is a great source for information. It’s great to ask and question and the first two answers are from Belgium and Australia.

I think the first thing anyone who is interested in an old Bitt bike should do is be REALISTIC about if you want to rebuild and maintain the bike yourself or have it done by pros.
You can save some money by doing your own work, but not enough to justify the time, sweat and tears.

Diablouph-Thanks for the info. I have actually been to Raber's for parts + advice for a BSA 441 project I was given. And I have already joined the Norton Club after seeing and talking to them at the motorcycle show in San Mateo last fall. That was part of my inspiration to own a Norton again. That and being somewhat mentally unstable. Thanks again all, Gary

You understand that you are mentally unstable. If you were not at the beginning, you would have gotten there eventually.

Want proof. Read: manifold-allen-bolts-t8590.html#p92685

Herman, you're cruel!!

Dave
69S