New lock ring for rear hub doesn't fit?

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disquek

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I just got a new lock ring (among other parts) from Andover. It goes in about a 1/4 turn and wont go any further. The old lock ring goes in just fine. I checked the thread, it's 20 tpi, I ran a thread file around it to make sure it didn't have a burr. Nope. Same.

Has anyone gotten a bum lock ring before?

-Kyle

PS: Yes, I know it's LH thread.
 
The thread might not have been cut deep enough maybe, is your old one reuseable, if it is then use it.

Ashley
 
The old one is usable. It doesn't snug all the way to the hub face. Is that normal? Pic below.

And yes, I think it's the minor diameter of the threads that's the issue.

New lock ring for rear hub doesn't fit?
 
While we're at it, is this normal? Note that the outer race is proud of the hub and the inner race is proud of the hub spacer.

I didn't assemble this, so I dont know.

These are the new double sealed bearings from Andover.

New lock ring for rear hub doesn't fit?
 
disquek said:
The old one is usable. It doesn't snug all the way to the hub face. Is that normal? Pic below.
Click to expand...

NOS ring made by old duffers in grey overcoats back in the day = 1.8 mm/ 1.9 mm gap seated. (They stop at the un threaded portion) and that is about where they contact the bearing outer race.
The bearing will be somewhere around 7. 6/7/8 mm down in the bore. (speedometer side)

The spigot on the inner spacer is going to come through the bearing on the speedometer side around 10mm
On the cush side be down in the bearing around 1.5 mm and 6.3 mm or so from the bearing up to the wheel flange top.
 
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Maybe if the lock-ring is supposed to compress the bearing into place, then it maybe it should show clearance and not bed up against the hub itself on that outside area. I agree, use the old one. Because its left hand thread, it is designed to tighten up when in use rather than come loose.
Dereck
 
Your bearing looks like it is seated correctly on the spacer, yet it is definitely too far out. And appears like it may be cock-eyed?

Is the bearing spacer correctly located on the other side?

This is what mine looked like installed. I froze the bearing and used a heat gun a bit on the hub and it dropped right in.

New lock ring for rear hub doesn't fit?
 
I have encountered pre Commando are CEI where the commando is unified, 20tpi can be CEI course.
Al
 
disquek said:
While we're at it, is this normal? Note that the outer race is proud of the hub and the inner race is proud of the hub spacer.
Click to expand...

If the correct procedure for fitting the RH bearing wasn't followed then that could be the reason for the LH bearing being proud of the hub, as the RH bearing must be fitted first, the depth within the hub is set by tightening the lock ring.

http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Repair/70up_Commando/70upCommando.pdf
Section H5.
Rear Hub Reassembly:

"2. Fit the single row bearing into the threaded (lock-ring) side of the hub, sufficiently to allow the lockring to be fitted.
3. Fit the felt seal and locking ring and tighten........."


If the RH bearing was driven in, then it could be too far into the hub which would result in the LH bearing not going fully into positon.
Correction: Only the LH rear wheel bearing can be driven too far into the hub if the correct fitting procedure isn't followed.
 
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Is there a way to tell if it was assembled improperly?

If it was assembled improperly, what’s the best way to fix it? Heat the hub on both sides and tighten the lock ring?
 
L.A.B. said:
...
If the RH bearing was driven in, then it could be too far into the hub which would result in the LH bearing not going fully into positon.
Click to expand...

Given that the lock ring seems to stop when it hits the outer race of the bearing, it seems to me that the outer race is also hitting a flange in the hub on the inside thus sandwiching the bearing between the lock ring and the hub. This makes me think that the lock ring side bearing cant be too far in. Thoughts?

-Kyle
 
disquek said:
If it was assembled improperly, what’s the best way to fix it? Heat the hub on both sides and tighten the lock ring?
Click to expand...

No, if assembled incorrectly then the RH bearing may already have been inserted too far into the hub.


disquek said:
Given that the lock ring seems to stop when it hits the outer race of the bearing, it seems to me that the outer race is also hitting a flange in the hub on the inside thus sandwiching the bearing between the lock ring and the hub. This makes me think that the lock ring side bearing cant be too far in.
Click to expand...

I can only suggest you check whether the lock ring is tight against the bearing or not.

If not, (which suggests the lock ring wasn't used to set the depth of the RH bearing) then the RH bearing would need to be moved over to the right.
 
Doesnt the picture I posted showing the gap between the lock ring and the hub face mean that the lock ring is in contact with the outer race of the bearing?
 
disquek said:
Doesnt the picture I posted showing the gap between the lock ring and the hub face mean that the lock ring is in contact with the outer race of the bearing?
Click to expand...

No, I don't believe it does. As other members have said, the gap is normal.
 
Doesn’t the bearing sit up against a register/ shoulder inside the hub against which the lock ring clamps it?
 
Fast Eddie said:
Doesn’t the bearing sit up against a register/ shoulder inside the hub against which the lock ring clamps it?
Click to expand...

Correct: The RH bearing is fully registered against the internal HUB shoulder and locked in position by the screw in speedo drive collar. The spacer tube sets the position of the LH bearing. Fit the felt and tin sheild and ready to install wheel.
 
The lock ring does touch the outer race of the bearing. I have verified this with prussian blue. I think the bearing on that side is sandwiched between the lock ring and a step in the hub. Can anyone confirm that?

Here are some measurements that I took.

Cush drive side:
Outer race to hub .058 outer race proud of hub
Inner race to spacer .070 inner race proud of spacer

Lock ring side:
Outer race to flange .322
Inner race to spacer .315 spacer proud of inner
With lock ring tight, gap between lock ring and hub flange .049
Depth of lock ring .376 surface that touches outer race to inside of flange
 
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