Mysterious Mechanical at Higher Temperatures

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hello all, first, i would like to thank all of you here. This is my first time posting on the forum but I have spent probably hundreds of hours over the past year scouring these pages for answers to all my commando questions with a lot of success.

I have a bit of a mystery I am hoping someone can help me with. Please bear with the long story-I think it is all relevant to my issue.

I recently put together my 1970 commando after it had been in boxes for many (16?) years. For the first few hundred miles after the rebuild, I could not get the right exhaust valve rocker to stay well gapped. I thought the lock nut was coming loose, so after the third retightening I even put a drop of non-permanent loctite on the threads as insurance. One other thing is that there was a good deal of noise from the timing side which I thought might be a loose cam chain.

At the 500 mile mark (which also coincided with a sunken float), I completed a thorough 500 mile service.
-I tightened the cam chain.
-I re-torqued the head nuts and double checked the base nuts.
-I checked the primary chain and oil bath which seemed fine,
-tightened the rear chain and checked rear wheel alignment.
-I rechecked the timing by strobe.
-And I rechecked the valve gaps.

When I first got on for the test ride, she felt better than ever. But then after about two miles, there was a little drop in power and loss of idle at stops and she seemed to be overheating. Then she started making a new noise which sounds like either a bearing or a rubbing chain. It was difficult to tell where it is coming from. Perhaps more of the primary side. It was intermittent and sounded like “swish, swish, swish” in rapid succession, then a pause, then repeated like this. Soon it was followed by yet another new noise which was more of a ting-ting but constant.

When I got home I again checked the valve gap and I realized that the gap was increasing even though the adjuster was not moving. Fearing a bent pushrod, I pulled the head to find the right two pushrods had rubbed against each other at the top ends. I then decided to pull the barrel to check the cam followers for any unusual wear. They were fine. I checked the cylinders and found a little wear front and back of both cylinders but seemingly nothing of real apparent concern. I replaced all four rods with brand new and built it up again with a brand new head gasket, well annealed and prepped. I also installed the newer mushroom type adjusters for posterity.

Last night I took her out again, but unfortunately the same ‘swish, swish, swish’ noise arose after a couple miles. It seemed to be worse at idle and it was definitely related to it getting up to temp because after it cooled down the noise went away and it ran fine. Everything feels great up until it gets hot.

I am at a loss at this point so any advice is greatly appreciated. I also admit I know a little about a lot so there is the possibility I did something wrong, such as over tighten the cam, etc.

Thank you,
Justin

1970 Commando named Sara
 
Sara needs help. Swish-swish -swish only hot. Primary. Sleeve bushes in tranny could be shot. Primary chain could be too tight. Wallet could be lightened. Clutch location circlip could be crushed up. Winter is your friend now. Pull primary cover and check for metal bits ,oil and try rocking clutch back n' forth too.
 
MIght suspect cam lobe wiping off but should of seen that with barrel off. Next place to peek is the cam drive side.
 
Thanks guys. I took your advice and checked chain. I also had a buddy up to take a look as well. Nonetheless, he advised I was running my drive chain too tight and that I ought to check primary chain too. I think maybe the combination of both chains being too tight was putting too much pressure on the gearbox. After loosening the drive, I no longer get the noise. I am just realizing I may have been running all my chains too tight for years.
Anyway, problem seems to be solved for now. (until the next gearbox rebuild) I really appreciate your help!
Justin
 
Oh ugh, check clutch wobble for idea of how much wear-tear inside tranny bushes you may be looking into next.
 
Justin might as well put sleeve gear bushes and roller layshaft bearing on that future order list. Great winter project.
 
Watch the movie Das Boot and do as the Chief engineer does. How could anything go wrong after watching him work ...
 
Go back over the chain adjustments that you carried out, including the cam chain.
Chain and sprockets have a reputation for producing tight spots, and should be checked for tightness in several places to find the tightest spot.

Re; “It was intermittent and sounded like “swish, swish, swish” in rapid succession, then a pause, then repeated like this. Soon it was followed by yet another new noise which was more of a ting-ting but constant.”
Very difficult to diagnose faults from this description-
This could be an air leak in the carb manifold. Try using a long screwdriver with the handle to your ear to try and pin point where this “more of a ting-ting but constant” is coming from, this is a tried and tested method use by mechanics the world over.
 
Get a mechanics stethoscope and try to determone WHERE the sounds are eminating from. A long screwdriver works held up to your ear, as does a long 3/8" drive extension bar. Not the end all, but sometimes gets you in the right neighborhood.
 
Bernhard said:
Go back over the chain adjustments that you carried out, including the cam chain.
Chain and sprockets have a reputation for producing tight spots, and should be checked for tightness in several places to find the tightest spot.

Re; “It was intermittent and sounded like “swish, swish, swish” in rapid succession, then a pause, then repeated like this. Soon it was followed by yet another new noise which was more of a ting-ting but constant.”
Very difficult to diagnose faults from this description-
This could be an air leak in the carb manifold. Try using a long screwdriver with the handle to your ear to try and pin point where this “more of a ting-ting but constant” is coming from, this is a tried and tested method use by mechanics the world over.

Yep.
I know it is difficult to have you guys diagnose based on a verbal description so I appreciate your trying. I did determine the two noises were unrelated. The ting sound turned out to be bad pushrods knocking each other. I could never find anything which may have caused that. They might have been bad rods going in. I replaced those and it seems to be fine now.
I did the screw driver trick. No bad sound at the cam or crankcase in general. Normal primary sound. Loudest on timing side - the odd thing is it seems loudest at would-be magneto location. I suspect this is because the hollow amplifies the sound here.
The swish sound (almost like the sound of brushing your jeans with your hand but deeper pitch) has gone away. After loosening the chain, I can no longer reproduce it to diagnose.
Sara seems to be running pretty well these past couple days. I have taken her on a few 5-10 mile stints.
The only thing that gives me a bit of worry is I think there still might be a subtle (and intermittent) power loss at idle when she gets hot. Could this be electrical? I have a trispark and it does seem to get super hot down at the points cover.
Thanks a lot to all.
 
OHH that swish swish sound, duh, I've had that happen when primary chain too tight once heated and tranny sleeve bushes too worn so clutch wobble contacted the inner primary case. I've also had it happen on fitting a belt drive with proper 90' tension but had not spaced basket off primary case enough. So another way the swisheroo's can show up in the mysterious cycle called a Commando.
 
JustinC said:
The only thing that gives me a bit of worry is I think there still might be a subtle (and intermittent) power loss at idle when she gets hot. Could this be electrical? I have a trispark and it does seem to get super hot down at the points cover.
Thanks a lot to all.
Could be carb adjustment. Do it when it's completely warmed up and 10 miles is not enough. Run the pilot screw in a bit rich from best idle, and make sure you get both plugs firing the same as you come off idle slowly until you get into the jets.

Dave
69S
 
Thanks Hobit and DogT,
There are both very much possible explanations. The chain was too tight and I just did some carb work (replaced my floats with the stay up type and replaced main jets with new 220s. (Had been running 190s when I was in California riding at higher altitudes with pre-ethanol gas.) I retuned them after the carb rebuild but nt after pulling apart the head. I should try to retune.
I am hoping to get a good ride in tomorrow so I will check it out.
Cheers guys-I will let you know how it goes,
Justin
 
Carbs. Why a manufacturer would run electronics in a hot cavity with extreme vibration is beyond my comprehension.
 
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