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Debby wired my bike and she did a pretty fantastic job. She used aftermarket switch gear (horn, high/low beam & turn signals) and it does have a aftermarket kill switch. All lights plus high/low are accessable by thumb on the left hand. She wired the on/off as a toggle and I assume that's why she wired the kill switch backward to confuse any would be thieves. Personally I never use a kill switch. She also added a fuse block that uses blade type fuses. This is velcroed onto the side of the battery for ease of access and for vibration dampening. She also included a Kuryakyn LED 12 Volt Battery Gauge. This sits just forward of the handlebars and gives you the charging information at a glance. It's pretty nice.Having been down this road several times, the best thing to do is upgrade the rotor/stater and go with a modern regulator/rectifier. Get the charging right and the rest of the electrical system will work like it should.
Debby wired my bike and she did a pretty fantastic job. She used aftermarket switch gear (horn, high/low beam & turn signals) and it does have a aftermarket kill switch. All lights plus high/low are accessable by thumb on the left hand. She wired the on/off as a toggle and I assume that's why she wired the kill switch backward to confuse any would be thieves. Personally I never use a kill switch. She also added a fuse block that uses blade type fuses. This is velcroed onto the side of the battery for ease of access and for vibration dampening. She also included a Kuryakyn LED 12 Volt Battery Gauge. This sits just forward of the handlebars and gives you the charging information at a glance. It's pretty nice.
Having been down this road several times, the best thing to do is upgrade the rotor/stater and go with a modern regulator/rectifier. Get the charging right and the rest of the electrical system will work like it should.
