My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

In my defense (or is it defence), i only rode it a half dozen times when i first got it before it was laid up for the last 2.5 decades
 
We shall soon see if there's any consequences from past decisions (however, if there are i will put full blame on the PO)

Moving on, cleaned off 25 yrs of dust...

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
Before you start it again, and if you have not done so already, drain the excess oil out of primary case, and check the transmission oil level. Over the course of sitting 30 years a lot of oil can end up in the primary case. Depends on the how well the main seal has held up. Can be particularly nasty after a wet sump start like that. The transmission may or may not have leaked a lot, but always worth checking.
 
Yes. After the fact, i checked the primary case. It seemed normal (or a little low) so no apparent leakage. Regardless, plan to replace all seals
 
TomU said:
Yes. After the fact, i checked the primary case. It seemed normal (or a little low) so no apparent leakage. Regardless, plan to replace all seals
Click to expand...

Heck, that's great. Maybe I'm projecting a little based on how my bike reacted after sitting for years on end. It barfed up oil, but it came out of the primary case. I drained the sump before starting it. Crank seal on the primary side is a dribbler on mine if it sits a couple of months, as is the primary case. Different design from the Commando primary case though. Prone to dribbling with the thin gaskets that were around in the 80's. Now that I have pulled it back out of the back of the garage, I try to start it every 5 days to prevent oil from building up in the sump, and to listen to it run again.

Have fun getting it back on the road.

Bleed the brakes. The fluid can get real strange sitting around, and nothing is less fun than pulling in that front brake lever and having close to nothing happen.
 
If you want to clean your chrome without buying new bits, get a bowl of warm water with a little liquid dish soap. Take some small pieces of wadded up aluminum foil dipped in soap and rub the chrome bits. The aluminum is softer than chrome, so wont scratch it, but it acts as a great abrasive on the rust and takes it right off.

Same pieces below
My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread


My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
Great tip! I used some fine steel wool on a portion of the handlebars to see if it's crud or rust. It seemed to buff out pretty good. I assume if aluminum won't hurt it, fine steel wool won't.

The silencers though??? It seems the silencers are welded to the pipes, which shouldn't be a big deal (not being able to separate them) if i can buff them out, but want to replace the rose nut.
 
Started tearing her down (the fun and easy part)

IMG_1438sm.jpg


Going was pretty easy until i got to the oil tank

What a pain in the a$$

Then the battery tray. Who designed this? Sadists?

Took some wiggling and jiggling on the oil tank (after removing all the hoses) and got to the battery tray/horn from the rear mudguard bolts. This could have been sooooo much easier designed

Oil tank and battery tray/horn off...

IMG_1461sm.jpg


Think next will be the rear wheel followed by the cylinder head (waiting on some tools that hopefully will get at those pesky upside down bolts)
 
Welcome aboard. Just being able to get it to fire up so easily after 25 years sitting is a really good sign. Do you have a factory service manual? You really need one for this sort of rebuild. I like to use a hard copy in the shop, but you can find free digital copies online pretty easily. If not, let me know, and I'll email one to you.

Ken
 
Yeah, i was totally shocked it fired up, considering it not only hasn't been started in 25 yrs, but one cylinder was low on compression and the wiring harness was near toast. I was thinking after it started on just putting the seat and gas tank back on and calling it a day. But what fun what that be ;)

And yes, having the FSM is a lifesaver. Have a digital copy and just ordered a hard copy from AN
 
TomU said:
Great tip! I used some fine steel wool on a portion of the handlebars to see if it's crud or rust. It seemed to buff out pretty good. I assume if aluminum won't hurt it, fine steel wool won't.

The silencers though??? It seems the silencers are welded to the pipes, which shouldn't be a big deal (not being able to separate them) if i can buff them out, but want to replace the rose nut.
Click to expand...
They shouldn't be welded to the headers, but rather slip in (sometimes very tightly) and held with a muffler clamp.

The end of the silencer is part of the front baffle core, and is welded at the shoulder to the silencer.

You may need to apply some heat and penetrating oil.

My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread
 
gortnipper said:
They shouldn't be welded to the headers, but rather slip in (sometimes very tightly) and held with a muffler clamp.
Click to expand...

Yeah, they weren't literally welded, but may as well be. I tried penetrating oil and heat, no luck. I was working them off the bike though. Wonder if i'd get more leverage if i mounted them back in the cylinder head. Don't think the nearly shot rubber mounts on the other end would be secure enough to hold.
 


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