My rebuild Norton

Hi

Wish to thank all of you making this forum so great, I have not been the most active writer on the forum but I guess I have nearly read every single post and learnd alot. I just finished the rebuild of my bike and used a lot of tips from here.
Frame sand blasted to remove powder coating and new wet paint applied, I had a bad expirence with powder coating.
Changed to a 520 X-ring chain, machined the sprockets my self.
Sealed bearings in the wheels.
New rims and polished stainless spokes, laced them myself never done it before.
Progressive springs & convenant conversation.
New wiring harness with seperate ignition circiut and fuse.
Pazon ignition & podtroncs powerbox.
Fuel tank & panels painted decals & pin stripes drowned in clear.
Homemade cylinderhead exhaust threat repair seems to work OK so far, and not very noticable from distance, put a M6 threat in the exhaust nut to lock and preventing coming loose so far it seems to work. see photo.
Etc. Etc.

BTW. my head looked like a mess, what works is alloy wheel cleaner.

Here is the result








B.R.
Henrik

I hope mine comes out that nice, Great job. Chuck.
.

gorgeous!

I too have never rebuilt bike wheels. MANY bicycle wheels but not motorbike wheels......

you've got me pumped up to get the last bits done on my 71baskecase

8) that...... and spring finally came to Cape Cod... a cold, damp and dreary place in 'spring'......

kfh

Very nicely done!

Sure looks like a runner.

Thanks for the kind words

Just returned from a short ride, I think the switch from the boyer micro digital to the Pazon analog have put even more torque in the bike.
I run a 21 tooth front sprocket and have the RH10 head with 30mm port, I can nearly ride every where in 4th gear. From around 45 km/h in 4th it just pulls like a train :lol:
Thats a really good feeling :lol: :lol:

B.R.
Henrik

Bravo, excellent work. Nice job on the exhaust ports. Did you put the bicycle odometer to get the speed in Km/h?

Jean

Nicely done. Could you tell me what an m6 treat is? How many fasteners on the exhaust flange? Did you use the same thread as factory on the insert? What is that thread? Sorry for all the questions but I really like the job you did on that repair. Mine have never come loose, I have never tightened them up, 35k miles, knock on Norton. Ride on.

Yes I put the bicycle odometer on to get speed in Km/h and to have a watch on the bike, you know time fly when you are crusing around.
M6 thread is a metric thread.
I put 1 fastners in the flange or exhaust nut and four in the insert.
The insert is made so that I do not put the force from the exhaust nut in the head but in the insert by the means of chest (I hope thats what it is called), as this would try to pull the insert out again, have a look at the photo hope you understand.

The insert is a drift fit in the head, after fitting the insert I then drilled a 5mm hole, ½ of the hole in the head the other ½ in the inser, then tapped a M6 thread, the idea is that the screw then will act as a lock. I am not sure what the screw I used is called in english, External it is all thread and one end has an internal hex.
I used the standard thread as originally was in the head 1.997" x 14 t.p.i. The insert is made of Dural which is a type of Aluminium with strength nearly as steel.

I you have further questions let me know

B.R.
Henrik

P.S. took it for a ride this evening with some friends from work at various speeds up to 90 M/h :lol:

From memory I think it's referred to as a "scotch key". Very nice work by the way.

In the States we call those screws "set screws". I have drawers of them at the plant.

Lucky said:

I am not sure what the screw I used is called in english, External it is all thread and one end has an internal hex.

Click to expand...

In English (as spoken by the English) they would be called "grub screws": http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/steel_grub_screws.htm

A "set screw" in English (British) terminology is a bolt that is fully threaded to the underside of the head: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Fixings ... /d90/sd970

Yes, its the ones inn the link from L.A.B.

Lets see how long this fix works, so far they stay tight.

I note that Norvil sells Dural exhaust port inserts (pt # 069383 in their catalogue) Has anyone done this repair themselves? Since I live in HK I don't really want to send my head half way round the world for the repair. I can get the damaged port cut locally by a machine shop, but I wonder whether the insert has to be screwed in hot or cold, with some kind of thread lock, or locked in place with a grub screw once fitted. Has anyone any advise on this?

Rather than start a new thread, can anyone answer this question for me?

dave M said:

I note that Norvil sells Dural exhaust port inserts (pt # 069383 in their catalogue) Has anyone done this repair themselves? Since I live in HK I don't really want to send my head half way round the world for the repair. I can get the damaged port cut locally by a machine shop, but I wonder whether the insert has to be screwed in hot or cold, with some kind of thread lock, or locked in place with a grub screw once fitted. Has anyone any advise on this?

Click to expand...

Like your bike . Good job

A lovely job mate.