My next project

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Dino

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Apr 21, 2015
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Just bought this:
My next project


The bike is a 72 Interstate(?) The P.O. has owned it since it had 300 miles on it. It has not seeen the road since 1991. It presently has 5700 miles on it. He has kept it in various sheds since then. I will start cleaning it shortly and want to get it road worthy. It looks to be all there. The motor will turn over with the kick starter. The front brake is sticking to the rotor making it difficult to roll. The tank has remnants of fuel still in it. from 24 years ago. The oil tank is empty.
Any suggestions on where to source parts and where to begin?
I am fairly handy with a wrench, but really fall short on electrics. Some one suggested replacing the ignotion with a boyer unit. Is that a straight forward swap?
Looking forward to the experience.
Dino
 
Its a Roadster tank and seat on it not Innerstate, looks all there how much you get it for.

Ashley
 
Hi Dino, welcome. First, pull the exhaust rocker cover off and put a few oz. of oil in there to drain down on the cam and lifters. Drain the crankcase, and fill the oil tank with fresh oil. Get a fresh battery. Clean the tank and carbs, search and read. Sounds like a great survivor
 
Yep run of the mill 2nd level Cream of the Crop Combat, 1st level has a decent size IS tank to me. Just be suspicious of brake fluid leaking out unknown for a few gas tanks to know for sure. What ever ya paid for it and put into it is mostly wasted like on girls and booze or drugs but at least someone can get off on it after you. You need a hard copy parts book and manual but manual has errors but mostly correct for Combat details. Keep hobot in mind before tossing out those Triumph 140 looking tall bars. Last Combat I got almost exactly like yours started up and ran perfect for about 3 wks timid use till about coasting at 50 sezied d/t Alu gasket mooshing into bores to ruib on taboo comma oil slotted pistons, so be pensive until knowing whats inside. Mine showed like 27K miles though can't trust oddometer as speedo cables goes out w/o replacing for long intervals.
 
Clean the fuel tank and rebuild the carbs. Add an electronic ignition, change the fluids, fix the draggy brake and put some fresh rubber on. And swap those buckhorn bars and blooey-pipe mufflers for regular or low bars and some peashooters. Nice find!
 
Do not over tighten primary chain going by what feels too slack when cold and check it again when mildly and then full warmed or can tug shafts into cork screw shape. Definitely must go through disc brake as infamous for rust pitting master cylinder and hindering caliper puck function and removal. New hose definitely there too. Put enough oil in rockers to drain down maybe most a cup so wet sumped in bottom to splash the cam/lobe on first kick over and if it hits off enough to take throttle go straight to cam break in rpm above 2000 and hold there till fairly warmed to reburnish-reconditon those surfaces. Most the excess oil will shoot out big breather hose into top of tank - which is a good initiation rite to peer into open oil cap but can easy spray out so good throttle control practice.

Oh yeah ya need to post a new subject thread to get properly recognized by forum moderator so title it
< L.A.B help with Norton viewing detail Please > and put in this URL.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjaiWNi7qzA
 
Only two design flaws to kill you.
1. Front disc brake not working well enough when needed, or
2. Rear brake pedal falling down when the cable breaks.
Everything else is fun times.
Ta.
 
Initial investment was 3k$ US.
I saw the links to the manuals and will print them out today.
Dino
 
Dino - always help to know where you are located.
This forum has folks from all over the world.
Just add it to you profile and it shows up on every post.

The bike looks like a very good buy at that price.
 
Dino said:
The front brake is sticking to the rotor making it difficult to roll.
Click to expand...
Watch for M/C failure, as is very common on these bikes to loose fluid/pressure due to corrosion pits in the bore. I would venture to guess that the slave cylinder is corroded internally, keeping the pucks pressed against the rotor. Lots of threads about those two occurrences, with some searching.

Welcome to the group!

Nathan
 
needing said:
Only two design flaws to kill you.
1. Front disc brake not working well enough when needed, or
2. Rear brake pedal falling down when the cable breaks.
Everything else is fun times.
Ta.
Click to expand...

3. Original layshaft bearing failure. Lots of links here on need for and how to replace with box still in bike.
 
Congratulations, the bike looks like a real survivor. Consider joining the New England Norton Owners Group. We meet on the 2nd Saturday of the month and have tech sessions on the 1st and 3rd Saturdays. Great source of information. Go to http://www.nneno.org for more info.
 
Thanks JW I will take a look at the site.
I will be getting a better look at the bike and starting the list of items to tend to this weekend. I also have another long term project. It is a Norton frame with an alloy tank. Motive force is from a Suzuki Savage 650 single.
My next project
 
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