My 1971 Norton Commando

I bought this bike new in 1971 while stationed in Germany, last rode it in 1984 when it needed work and parts. no one near to do the work and I could not find the parts. It has sat for the last 30 years and I could never bring my self to sell it.

finally decided to put it back on the road. The pistons were frozen

So far New Iso's , carb rebuilt, cylinders bored 20 over ,new pistons and rings. New valves, guides and springs.

I like the look of the black cylinder and the guy at the auto store recommended powder coating, my buddie says that powder coating will hold the heat in.

What is the best way to paint the cylinder black?

Thanks

Congratulations. It is awe inspiring when starting it up for the first time after working it over. Job well done.

Marc

I just got a can of 500 degree black spray paint, masked off the cylinders, and painted them

I remember using a small paint brush to get between the fins

still looks great some 20 years later, you don't have to make a big deal out of this..

flat black or semi gloss is preference

OK you are all going to laugh at me, but I have painted several air cooled engines with Harley black engine paint in a rattle can. So far it has worked great and lasted years.

Marc

Hehe, anything goes on cylinders as unless a land speeder with heat issues its a non issue. Best there is are the ant-corrosion pro heat flow weapons coating in various shades from flat to semi to glossy and DIY spray on and bake in a very thin layer that does not conceal or fill in any surface texture at all. Rattle can engine paint is my choice most the time.

I may just leave it at the powder coater, I have already dropped it off,

This has been an experience and project from the beginning, a real neophyte here. It took nearly a month to get the pistons loose, filled the bores with every penetrant I could find, 4th gear and rock it back and forth, 3 weeks later it finally moved. thought i might save the pistons, but no. then decided to bore it out and get the new pistons. some where it looked like a good time to do the iso's, I could get to them easily at this stage of take down, first thought was just do the rear, and after it was in then it only made sense to do the front.

was going to do the carb rebuild my self and have the carbs ultra- sonically cleaned locally, called the Booneville shop and Roger said I might be better to send them to him and he would re build them.. actually it was my 2nd call to Roger He advised on getting the pistons loose, thanks

New valves and tried to hand lap ,no go took them to a local shop and looking more closely saw that one of the guides was split, so back to order new guides, install and back to the shop to grind and valves and seats

I finally got my Clymer manual and reading, it recommends not using the paper gasket at the base of the cylinder, so back off comes the cylinder and that is why the question of the day.

My original objective was too keep it simple and inexpensive just to get it back on the road, not going to be either, but I still want to do as much of the work as I can.


I suspect a lot more questions to come

In looking I have seen some that looked worse at the start but not a lot worse, I hope it looks as good as some of the riders I see when done

Thanks

I wouldn't do the powder coat thing, but then I talked to a guy that powder coated a lot of harley engines and they seem fine with it. I'm skeptical of the nay-sayers and the effect of heat/powder coat. It's certainly easy enough to put BBQ paint on it though.

Your Norton will run fine even with a minimal rebuild, but the better you do it, the longer it will last, and you can spend big $$ on it if you like. Go as far as you like. It's up to you, and your choice.

Dave
69s

I missed photos of it before the basic cleaning and initial tear down, It was nasty. still pretty rough,

DogT said:

I wouldn't do the powder coat thing, but then I talked to a guy that powder coated a lot of harley engines and they seem fine with it. I'm skeptical of the nay-sayers and the effect of heat/powder coat. It's certainly easy enough to put BBQ paint on it though.

Your Norton will run fine even with a minimal rebuild, but the better you do it, the longer it will last, and you can spend big $$ on it if you like. Go as far as you like. It's up to you, and your choice.

Dave
69s

Click to expand...

My plan was to get the motor running first, trying to do things right the first time as I have no desire to take it apart again.

after that do safety brakes shocks chain and what comes up. again do it so it is safe and looks good one bit at time

No desire to build a concourse, just a good running good looking rider. after that we will see about paint and polish


Dennis

I really like those before pics. There is just something honest about them.

They seem to have success written all over them.

Dennis, do you have the original rectifier? If so, is it mounted on the front or rear of the frame crossmember?

Thanks,
Graeme

With the exception of the handle bars and a Boyer electronic ignition I had installed in 1972, everything is 100% original.

the rectifier is mounted on the back side of the rear cross member

Dennis

Welcome, Dennis.

Great looking "before" shot; Jerry has been doing a "Most improved" contest the last few years, it looks like you'll be a contender in the 2014 contest.

Greetings . remember its only ' Factory Original ' Finish once - so no need to go broke there . :wink: The rarer they get the greter the value - they call it petania or suchlike , adds a touch of genuine vintage rather than pebble beach .

You're in a enviable position Dennis. Have fun with it. Where were you stationed if I may ask. I was there at the same time.

Matt Spencer said:

Greetings . remember its only ' Factory Original ' Finish once - so no need to go broke there .

Click to expand...

YAHTZEE!

Careful cleaning and touchup will retain or increase the value.

i have powdercoated the cylinders on my BMW airhead black. Its has lasted for years and I dont think that the bike is running hot.

Charles

I was with 559th engineering battalion In Hanau Germany, 1969 through 1972

Love this forum I just bought some Tygon for the rocker feed lines, then looked here and I see I need truck air brake line, I think that is close to measure twice cut once read first and then buy

Dennis

I suggest you look for the clear (actually opaque) brake line.
That way you can visually see the oil flow to the head, and see the draindown when shutting the engine off.

I now have all the engine parts back and ready to mount on the bike










New pistons /rings .020 over . new valves and guides, rebuilt carbs, powder coated cylinder

should get most of it back on this weekend

Dennis