Most common engines

Morgy · Oct 17, 2019

Bernhard said:
Alas, Tig welding were not around when, I think, the last F/Bed was made-

Very true. But this is on a RD350lc Hybrid not a Norton frame

and if you have ever seem Factory Jap welding from 30+ Years ago...NOT GOOD at all.. Hopefully the Brazing on Norton fames look nice..

Bernhard · Oct 18, 2019

Brazing on Norton F/bed fames ALLWAYS look nicer!
They were done by professionals!

Fast Eddie · Oct 18, 2019

I’m not aware of many Japanese frames failing at the welds though boys...

Morgy · Oct 18, 2019

Fast Eddie said:
I’m not aware of many Japanese frames failing at the welds though boys...

But they Look S*!T

Has the brazing on Norton frames been known to fail? If so any common areas to look out for? Common areas for Rot.

Bernhard · Oct 18, 2019

Being metal ALL frame tubes will eventually rot, and this is why most of the British motorcycle industry went to great trouble to getting their frames stove enamelled so they still looked good 50+ years on if the frame was taken care of.

Triton Thrasher · Oct 18, 2019

Morgy said:
But they Look S*!T

Has the brazing on Norton frames been known to fail? If so any common areas to look out for? Common areas for Rot.

The road frames were welded mild steel.

Bernhard · Oct 18, 2019

The f/bed were SIF bronze welded which is a lower temp to welding!!!

Fast Eddie · Oct 18, 2019

Like TT says, the road bike featherbed frames were all welded mild steel. Race frames were brazed.

No, their welds don’t fail either.

But they’re all bloody old and probably abused by now.

Areas to watch for include:

Rotten bottom rails

Rot and fatigue on the exhaust mounts welded to the bottom rear bend

Bent front down tubes caused by a frontal and / or being ridden without a proper structural head steady (an integral / structural part of the frame design)

Damaged bottom rail from a poorly fitted side stand lug and / or endless kick starting whilst on the side stand.

Cracked / bent / damaged engine mounts

Cracked / damaged lower cross tube.

t ingermanson · Oct 18, 2019

Don't forget the cracks on the front down tubes, propagating from the bottom of the trouser gusset.

Triton Thrasher · Oct 18, 2019

t ingermanson said:
Don't forget the cracks on the front down tubes, propagating from the bottom of the trouser gusset.

The welded repair on mine has lasted well.

The head steady lug broke off from the cross tube too.

Fast Eddie · Oct 18, 2019

A lot of decisions really depend on what your vision is for your finished product, how fussy you are, how much you can do yourself, and how much hard cash you’re prepared to spend.

But I’d caveat the above by also adding that we all ALWAYS under estimate the work, time and money it’s gonna take!

You gotta be honest with yourself though, no matter what BS folk try and feed you, the ain’t no such thing as a cheap way to build a nice Triton.

If you want a really good end result, and are prepared to spend, you could do a lot worse than speak to Mr Triton himself, Dave Degens, he still does new frames, engine plates, forks, pipes tanks, seats, etc and usually has a few used engines and gearboxes to sell.

It’s and old cliche, but he really has forgotten more about Tritons than the rest of us will ever know!

Dresda Triton vintage race bike. 650cc, pre unit, slimline frame:

Degens much prefers the strength of the unit engine, but, as some have said, they can look too small for the frame. This one doesn’t cos it was a new frame built for a unit motor. Which was 840cc and indecently quick:

Morgy · Oct 19, 2019

Thanks Eddie..

I can do most of it myself "hopefully" Major Mechanical like a full bottom end rebuild will be left to the pro's. Any fabrication, welding, Prep, Polishing, wiring I can handle....

I know all to well about budgets,timescales.. My rd350 was 6-12 months project and i am now 24 months + in but now on the home straight.. Dave degens isn't that far from me so may give him a visit in the near future...

Fast Eddie · Oct 19, 2019

If he’s not that far you should go and speak to him BEFORE you start, or buy anything, etc...

Morgy · Oct 19, 2019

Fast Eddie said:
If he’s not that far you should go and speak to him BEFORE you start, or buy anything, etc...

Roger that!!

Fast Eddie · Oct 20, 2019

This would be a pretty bloody good starting point...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manx-Nor...128925?hash=item56cd371e1d:g:V6EAAOSwiMBdq3IQ

dynodave · Oct 20, 2019

Bernhard said:
Alas, Tig welding were not around when, I think, the last F/Bed was made-

tig perfected 1941

t ingermanson · Oct 20, 2019

Fast Eddie said:
This would be a pretty bloody good starting point...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manx-Nor...128925?hash=item56cd371e1d:g:V6EAAOSwiMBdq3IQ

@Morgy if you don't get this, I might! That's a great place to start, if it doesn't get raised too much.

Fast Eddie · Oct 20, 2019

t ingermanson said:
@Morgy if you don't get this, I might! That's a great place to start, if it doesn't get raised too much.

It’ll go for a LOT more than the £1550 it’s at currently boys. The front wheel would probably fetch that...

Morgy · Oct 21, 2019

Fast Eddie said:
It’ll go for a LOT more than the £1550 it’s at currently boys. The front wheel would probably fetch that...

Thanks for the link.. Looks very nice indeed.. Anyones on here?

Morgy · Oct 21, 2019

t ingermanson said:
@Morgy if you don't get this, I might! That's a great place to start, if it doesn't get raised too much.

A little digging on the www. looks like it sold for £8600 Feb 2019.. Now on with different seller but with the same description and photos. Could be first sale fell through, so why different Account? or the new buyer found something up with it..