MkIII Brake line configurations

I just put on my new re-sleeved master and lightened rotors with a fresh caliper rebuild however I'm just now realizing I don't think the 29" Venhill SS line is going to work. The top hose was cut removing a frozen fitting in the master.

I am ok with keeping the hard lines but wonder why not just run an entirely fresh SS line from the master to the caliper. The 29" line I bought a year or so ago doesn't seem to complete any of the stock circuit properly.

What have others done and aside from retaining originality why keep the hard lines? I'm trying to stay as stock as possible but I think brakes are the most important feature on any vehicle. What length lines would one use for an oehm fit or a entire new line run up through the the triple tree to the master from the caliper?

Any vendor to recommend? Also I considered the Old Brits oil pressure gauge but it's just too much coin right now with a house and property build underway, I'm lucky to have any free time or money for tires... Thanks fellas!! Ken C

DO NOT USE WEZMOTO in the UK. Ordered a set for my MK3 on eBay. Auction said they were specifically designed for 1975 Nortons. Each of the 3 lines were well over 6 inches too long for my bike which is totally stock configuration. Sent pictures of lines mocked up to support my claim. He emailed back and said they will not fit my bike becuase it was E start. I emailed and said 1975 bikes were E start. And the only Nortons of the time that required the 3 brake lines being sold in the auction. (1 from m/cyl to junction, 1 from front brake junction to front caliper hard line, and 1 for the rear brake just after m/cyl hard line) Sent parts back in the same package as they arrived in with an email attached containing a pic of my US to Britain customs form. 2 months later, I've not recieved a refund for parts or return shipping. This guy is a 3rd party supplier of decent quality lines that WILL NOT FIT YOUR BIKE. And he does not seem to care. Beware. I had to get paypal involved.

I don't normally have words about many vendors. Most are doing all they can to keep these old bikes going. And I understand that some parts will require some work to get a proper fit. When the vendor clearly doesn't seem to care is when I choose to be vocal. Sorry for the rant.

I've since brought my lines to a local hydraulic shop. I had a very nice set made for my Mk3 for under $30 for the set of 3. Taylor made for my bike and of excellent quality. Long story short...use your local resources.

No reason to keep the hard line sections if you can come up with a routing that doesn't hang, catch, rub or interfere with suspension action. They do make it easier to remove the calipers when necessary (like replacing pads). But you could just leave the lines connected.

I can source you any brake line you can imagine for your Mk3. Many individuals go straight from the master to the caliper; the bulkhead mount allows the line be removed without rotating the master or the caliper, but isn't necessary if you understand the limitation mentioned earlier.

I would definitely keep the bulkhead fitting and use two flex hoses. This allows a nice short hose from the mc down to the top of the bulkhead. No movement, flexing, or rubbing with fork movement. Then run another hose from the bottom of the bulkhead fitting down to the caliper. Make this one long enough to allow fork action and no rubbing anywhere.
Jaydee

I take great care with my brakes too, and after all the work you have done you may not be happy with the way an off the shelf hose fits your particular set up. I'm a long way off from redoing my Norton's brake, but I've made a fair number of hoses using the excellent quality Goodridge hose components, and have been very satisfied with the results. I could pass along a few construction tips I've learned along the way if you decide top go that route.
Broken link removed
Bill

jaydee75 said:

I would definitely keep the bulkhead fitting and use two flex hoses. This allows a nice short hose from the mc down to the top of the bulkhead. No movement, flexing, or rubbing with fork movement. Then run another hose from the bottom of the bulkhead fitting down to the caliper. Make this one long enough to allow fork action and no rubbing anywhere.
Jaydee

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You can keep the bulkhead fitting and still use one hose from the caliper to the master, it is considerably less expensive, more reliable and easier to implement. I believe that Norton utilized the two hose system so that they could build all their Mk3 front brake systems uniformly to the upper triple clamp, then differentiate handlebar rise with different hose lengths for the different models.

I've gotten to the point where I believe this will be the last set of lines I buy. I have had to have lines made for so many projects over the years, mostly bikes, some Porsche and old Toyota stuff. I think next year I'm going to pull the trigger and buy a crimped and make my own lines. The hard part I see being a fair assortment of fittings metric BST and Sae. I have a feeling I can source the darn fittings faster than the line. My only thing is I prefer non stainless Teflon line in plain black. It's a little hard to find but think I've had more wear with SS lines on off-road vehicles and track cars and bikes???...

Thanks for the input, I will just have Fred at Old Brits make me a line and I'll be done with it. I like the original set up but I much prefer having a one piece line, it's easier to maintain two connections over 4-8 fittings. I also like bing bale to pull a caliper easily without chancing a broken hard line, I think bleeding has been easier on other bikes as well. Thanks for the input folks. I may need to call Goodridge and have them send me a crimping set up and stock to build lines for myself.

You don't need any special tools if you use the re-useable Goodridge fittings.
Bill