MK3 Rotor / Stator gap

Hi Lads,

I'm rebuilding my entire starter mechanism and I'm putting the stator back on.

I've tried lots of 'persuasion' with the mounting studs but can't get the correct gap at about 7 O"clock regardless of the position of the rotor.

The outrigger support the MK3 has for the antibackfire device, to me, seems to stop any movement of the stator since the stator sits into the outrigger & its a tight fit.

Any advice from MK3 owners about adjusting the gap?

I can just about force a .008 feeler into the gap at 7 O'clock but it's very tight, the rest of the gap all around is fine.


Kevin

If ya can't bash the mounts for centering clearance then will have to try to open up- slot the stator holes, which is very tough steel laminates so not an easy tedium. Check crank run out.

Hi hotbot,

Thanks for the reply.

Even if I open the stator holes up the outrigger mount that the stator sits in will stop any movement of the stator. On the MK3 the stator sits into this outrigger support & its a very tight fit, so no movement.

I'm anxious to get the bike back on the road BUT I've seen the pictures of exploded stators, hence my questions!

Thanks

Kevin

You may want to recheck your inner primary case mountings. The rotor is attached to the crankshaft and the stator is attached to the inner primnary case--there may be a small amount of play--or-misalignment of the inner primary case which could be persuaded to make that gap increase that you need.

click said:

Even if I open the stator holes up the outrigger mount that the stator sits in will stop any movement of the stator. On the MK3 the stator sits into this outrigger support & its a very tight fit, so no movement.

Click to expand...

I found the same problem on my Mk3. I used a flap wheel mounted in an electric drill to sand off a small amount of stator material from the tight area until it had the necessary rotor clearance. I think it may also be possible to adjust the outrigger position by filing the outside edges of one or more of the outrigger legs where they locate against the lugs on the inner primary casing-but it's something I haven't tried-so please don't blame me if that method doesn't actually work.

303 fmj said:

You may want to recheck your inner primary case mountings. The rotor is attached to the crankshaft and the stator is attached to the inner primnary case--there may be a small amount of play--or-misalignment of the inner primary case which could be persuaded to make that gap increase that you need.

Click to expand...

I'll check this but I did not disturb the inner primary but it worth a look, thanks.

Kevin

L.A.B. said:

click said:

Even if I open the stator holes up the outrigger mount that the stator sits in will stop any movement of the stator. On the MK3 the stator sits into this outrigger support & its a very tight fit, so no movement.

Click to expand...

I found the same problem on my Mk3. I used a flap wheel mounted in an electric drill to sand off a small amount of stator material from the tight area until it had the necessary rotor clearance. I think it may also be possible to adjust the outrigger position by filing the outside edges of one or more of the outrigger legs where they locate against the lugs on the inner primary casing-but it's something I haven't tried-so please don't blame me if that method doesn't actually work.

Click to expand...

Hi L.A.B.,

I was starting to think about relieving a bit of the alloy, in my case, from the lower outrigger leg, just seems like a bit of a 'bodge' but if it works that's all that matters. I'll just go VERY slowely.

In my younger days I would have just put it all together & hope for the best :mrgreen:

Thanks for all the advice.

Kevin

click said:

L.A.B. said:

click said:

Even if I open the stator holes up the outrigger mount that the stator sits in will stop any movement of the stator. On the MK3 the stator sits into this outrigger support & its a very tight fit, so no movement.

Click to expand...

I found the same problem on my Mk3. I used a flap wheel mounted in an electric drill to sand off a small amount of stator material from the tight area until it had the necessary rotor clearance. I think it may also be possible to adjust the outrigger position by filing the outside edges of one or more of the outrigger legs where they locate against the lugs on the inner primary casing-but it's something I haven't tried-so please don't blame me if that method doesn't actually work.

Click to expand...

Hi L.A.B.,

I was starting to think about relieving a bit of the alloy, in my case, from the lower outrigger leg, just seems like a bit of a 'bodge' but if it works that's all that matters. I'll just go VERY slowely.

In my younger days I would have just put it all together & hope for the best :mrgreen:

Thanks for all the advice.

Kevin

Click to expand...

Hi L.A.B.,

Just some feedback. Got the dremmel out & a very fine grinding stone, after 5 fittings of stator on/off I now have .008 all the way around, the 7 O'Clock position is still a little tight but the feeler does pass through + I cut up a coke bottle & the strip of plastic can pass all the way around the gap with a bit more effort at the 7 O'Clock position.

I'm going to leave it at that, I think if I keep going I'll do more bad than good :roll:

Need to fit clutch plates & then test the starter, fingers crossed all the new parts will do their job!

Once again thanks for your advice.


Kevin

Hi Lads,

Put clutch plates back in, checked everything over again and tested the starter . . . . . . . .

Fantastic, its spinning the motor like there is no spark plugs in.

I'll button up the cover tomorrow & hopefully have a nice spin on Sunday :mrgreen:

Kevin