Mk 3 Sprag not Engaging...... Solved. (2015)

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hillbone

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Hi All.
After spending the national debt on replacing everything, I tried one last idea.
The battery. I had bought a new yellow Motorbatt MBTX 14AU which under their catalogue was for a MK3 Electric.
It just squeezed in as it was a big heavy beast. Rather than the concept that the starter was spinning too quick to grab, maybe it didn't have the bite. It registered 12.7 volts and with the 3 phase alternator was charging at 13+ volts.
So I bought a lightweight Shorai LFX21L6BS12. Cost a bomb but the sprag engaged instantly.
I have had about 15 starts, hot and cold and no probs at this stage.
So the ideal combination at this stage is ,
* All new drive gear
* New smaller silver starter ( no idea of brand with no id numbers on it )
* Shorai Battery
* Upgraded wiring kit.
Thanks for everyones input.
 
hillbone said:
Hi All.
After spending the national debt on replacing everything, I tried one last idea.
The battery. I had bought a new yellow Motorbatt MBTX 14AU which under their catalogue was for a MK3 Electric.
It just squeezed in as it was a big heavy beast. Rather than the concept that the starter was spinning too quick to grab, maybe it didn't have the bite. It registered 12.7 volts and with the 3 phase alternator was charging at 13+ volts.
So I bought a lightweight Shorai LFX21L6BS12. Cost a bomb but the sprag engaged instantly.
I have had about 15 starts, hot and cold and no probs at this stage.
So the ideal combination at this stage is ,
* All new drive gear
* New smaller silver starter ( no idea of brand with no id numbers on it )
* Shorai Battery
* Upgraded wiring kit.
Thanks for everyones input.
Click to expand...

I've had two of those MotoBatts die an untimely death. IMHO, a cheapo battery packaged glitzy and sold at a premium.
Thanks for closing the loop :mrgreen:
 
Re "was charging at 13+ volts."
mulimeter should read 14.3-14.7 volts when chargine from engine.
 
+1 on "closing the loop" . Sorry you had to spend os much, but I will take this lesson to heart when re-installing my starter and associated gears, (which came in a box of assorted "extras" when I bought the bike).
 
Should'a bought Odyssey. The Mk111 needs the best battery you can afford. Glad you found that problem. :)
 
Thanks lads.
Went for a lengthy little ride in 38+ temps today. voltmeter read with headlight on 14.3 volts whilst underway.
Nice to see everything working. Not yet at the confidence level to remove the kickstart lever.
 
The darn thing was introduced as an electrical assister. Try kicking and pressing the green button at the same time. Helps keep loads off sprague and reduces kicking effort all in one joyful experience. :)
 
Torontonian said:
The darn thing was introduced as an electrical assister. Try kicking and pressing the green button at the same time. Helps keep loads off sprague and reduces kicking effort all in one joyful experience. :)
Click to expand...

Where does it say assist? Everything I've ever seen says electric start. I believe assist is a reputation acquired due to the anemic operation of the original two pole starter. The DD starter on mine and the four pole conversions of the original starter spin like a modern bike.
 
The issue is myself and others live in a colder climate and the DD starter ( as serious as it is to spin up the motor ) will freewheel at anything below 15 degrees centigrade . So.. why does it freewheel and not grab ? The sprag system is good.
I have a 4 -Brush rebuilt Prestolite . Is it a straight pull out and swap out of the primary inner cover ? I'm hoping it's that simple and no internals have to be messed with. If so .. early summer I would return the DD one to the starter hole for sure.
 
Once upon a time I greased the sprag up real good and it wouldn't work until I took it apart and cleaned off the grease. So maybe a cold oily bearing?
 
Any time the ambient air temperatures go above 15 C. the starter and sprag engage and it's an instant startup.
 
I think that the reason why the sprag will not engage is because of the resistance from at too thick oil, when it is cold.

I have switched to one of the relatively cheap Chinese sprags and it is working fine, no matter how cold it is. I suppose that the reason why it works, is because it is made of a softer material and will eventually wear out, but it is working fine for now.
 
OKA said:
I think that the reason why the sprag will not engage is because of the resistance from at too thick oil, when it is cold.

I have switched to one of the relatively cheap Chinese sprags and it is working fine, no matter how cold it is. I suppose that the reason why it works, is because it is made of a softer material and will eventually wear out, but it is working fine for now.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I have 2 of these cheapo Chinese sprags , 18 rollers type. Next time the primary comes apart for sure. I'm using 20-50W . as the manual says.
 
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