Miles place master cylinder

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Mk3... Had Fred and Ella send Me a rebuild unit. I can't bleed the front brake to save my life. Been doing this since I was a kid... 30 yrs maybe?? My gal says I never grew up but anyhow. Swapped to a new line and ditched the lefty side back on the right side. New seals and stainless Pistons, norton seals, all lubed with brake fluid. Can't get a damn lever! No movement on the Pistons at all. No air seen. Pressure bleed from the bottom, vacuum bled, used the vacuum on the nipple, NOTHING! Forced me to drink for crying out loud!

Checked all the fittings and they are tight. So what the hell am I missing?
 
I went through the same problem...pulled my hair out for weeks

SOLUTION: The MK# lever won't push enough fluid. Fit a lever from an earlier year and it will all work. Except that you now have a long reach to the lever. GRRRRR
 
All brakes should bleed, some harder than others but all should bleed, maybe a problem in the new parts you put on, no other reason.

Ashley
 
Rusty bucket said:
Mk3... Had Fred and Ella send Me a rebuild unit.

Standard or sleeved (to 13mm)?

If it's a sleeved unit, did you follow the Old Britts instructions.

http://www.oldbritts.com/14_061939.html

BLEEDING THE NEW BRAKE ASSEMBLY
NOTE: PUMPING” WILL NOT BLEED YOUR NEW BRAKE SYSTEM.

Before attaching the master cylinder to the handlebar, bleed the brake system. Start by draping a few rags across the valley between the handlebars and the headlight. Attach the reservoir cap and gasket to the reservoir. Slip a ¼” box wrench over the bleed valve of the caliper. Attach the short length of vinyl tube (found inside the syringe housing) to the end of the syringe (provided). Draw fresh brake fluid into the syringe unit the syringe is full. Using the syringe, deposit a little brake fluid at the opening of the bleed valve. Depositing the little brake fluid at the bleed valve opening causes a meniscus to form over the bleed valve opening. This meniscus or bubble of brake fluid displaces any air at the opening of the bleed valve. Displacing air at the opening prevents any air bubbles from being injected when the bleed valve is opened. This is especially important if additional bleeding is required. Force the open end of the vinyl tube over the bleed valve. Make sure there are no air bubbles present at the open end of the vinyl tube. If air bubbles are present, remove the syringe with the vinyl tube attached, squirt a little fluid out of the syringe and then reattach the syringe and tube. Open the bleed valve slightly. While holding the master cylinder vertically in one hand, slowly begin to inject brake fluid into the caliper with the other hand. As you inject the fluid, rotate the upper end of the master cylinder in a circle. Holding the master cylinder vertically and rotating the upper end in a circle which injecting the brake fluid into the caliper insures that all air bubble will be forced out of the line and into the reservoir. Do not fully depress the plunger of the syringe. Stopping the plunger early will prevent injecting the always-present air at the end of the plunger. Leaving a little fluid in the syringe insures against injecting air bubbles into the caliper housing. When almost all the fluid is gone from the syringe, close the bleed valve, set the master cylinder on the rages placed across the handlebars and remove the syringe with the vinyl tube still attached. Reload the syringe and repeat the above operation to insure all bubbles have been displaced. The syringe holds 12 cubic centimeters of fluid. The reservoir will comfortably hold 24 cubic centimeters. If it becomes necessary to bleed beyond two full syringes, some of the fluid may need to be removed from the reservoir.
 
Tie the brake lever back to the bar with a bungee or ty-wrap and let sit overnight. This has worked for many of us.
 
Just had same problem today, with stainless pistons - inboard piston not moving. I had to remove the caliper and connect to a footpump using on old metal brake line and gently pump to so that piston movement can be seen, re-fit, reconnect and bleed. I am also not convinced that when the bike is on the level the holes that feed the chambers behind the pistons have the hole in the very top position and thus do not allow all the air to escape up the bleed valve. Also, the old brits article may have worked in the past, but the DOT 4 fluid I have just bought does not allow the bubbles to rise through it that easily as can be seen in the silicone tube when bleeding.
 
I'm convinced there is still air in the master. I'm going to remove the lever and invert it and tap on it while pressure bleeding. I didn't run air through the line as stated in old Brits to move the Pistons onto the caliper though I don't see this as being critical, hydraulic pressure should be much greater than a poorly sealed air being blown into the system, after all I wanted to avoid air to begin with.

One more trial tomorrow am.
 
Just had a look at an old caliper, the holes that allow the air to escape from the chamber behind the piston are not at the very top of the chamber, this equates to two considerable bubbles. I will try removing the caliper to rotate it so that the bubbles will vent. I have also found that it helps to gently apply the brake and then gently roll the bike back and forth, it must help the pistons settle in the seals.
 
Well after leaving both cylinders compressed I need tahsin the pistons have seated against the pads and thus the rotors. A moderately better lever noted up front the rear was still rather poor IMO.

Additionally, I removed the front master from the bars and held it downward and tapped on it with a metal screwdriver then held a drill against it hoping to free any trapped air with the vibration. I'm rather confident that there is no air in the front circuit. I left a heavy rubber banding on the lever again tonight. There is improvement just not what I used to feeling...

The rear pistons are moving and clamping, I went over every fitting and doubled checked them for tightness find one that could have been a little better maybe? Nonetheless I felt the rear could be better, replaced it with a full stainless unit since I bunged the original up not finding the set screw. I should have read Fred's article first! $140 mistake however the original was very very corroded and full of dried grease, rust and something that might be 40year old brake fluid.

So after a good pumping session and a semi permanent waffle print on my palm I did manage to free a few small bubbles, probably from when I bottomed out a syringe pressure bleeding the system from the caliper.
As mentioned above I think pulling the caliper loose and holding it in a manner where the holes feeding the cylinder are permitting the air to escape. Too bad I could remember where they were!
I'm going to install the new carb cable and rebuilt Mukini and fire it up tomorrow. I need to scuff off these new painted rotors with the old pads, then I may revisit the brake bleeding.

I need to keep in mind I'm used to modern balanced brakes on my Japanese and European bikes built in the past 15-20 years, almost light years ahead in brake technology. I'm not racing this bike but I'm used to one finger Brembo and Nissin systems that stop you in your tracks so I need to chill and see how the systems will work. Anything is better than what I had which was pathetic at best.
 
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