Master Cylinder Nissin 4 pot Caliper

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Nigeldtr

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Jul 26, 2012
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Hello,

New to the forum, just bought myself a MKII 850 which needs some TLC. The bike has had a few period mods and changes, some I like, some not sure about. Front brake has been upgraded and the disc, caliper, MC have been changed. The bike needs re-wiring but the handle bar switches have been replaced by a Jap block on the LHS. I have the original lockhead MC, LHS and RHS switches and would like to refit them but I suspect the original MC will need modifying. Does anyone know if it will work with a 4 pot Nissin caliper?

Regards

Nigel
 
Welcome Nigel.

Nigeldtr said:
Does anyone know if it will work with a 4 pot Nissin caliper?
Click to expand...

Whether a particular brake setup works well or badly often depends on the hydraulic ratio between the master cylinder and caliper.

The standard Norton Lockheed M/C piston is 5/8" diameter. What diameter are the caliper pistons?

http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm
 
Effectiveness of brake depends on full lever effect reaching the brake pads, ease of effective braking depends on the hydraulic ratio. If using factory master cylinder try removing the restirictor 'valve' in the big black boot with very tiny hole, as that sure helped my Lockheed master cylinders feel very similar to 13 mm resleeve, so much so I'd not bother with another master cylinder unless the bore pitted. Do inspect the caliper pads as water tends to collect there and very few SS pucks installed back when.

Main reason for multi pucks is as OD of rotors got bigger the outer pad/rotor got hotter than inner pad/rotor so distortion prone. So they made rotors narrower and added more smaller pads to make up surface area lost.
 
Yes, works fine, way better than the std set up but probably not as good as the original nissin one
 
Thank you for the replies. I can't see any markings on the MC connected to the Nissin, so no idea what make it is? I have had a closer look at the two MCs and the original as mentioned by others is 5/8 bore and the other one on the bike is 11/16 (it sort of fell out when I took the lever off to measure it). The pistons look identical in length and form but in this case, the original lockheed is 1/16th smaller. Sounds like it could work OK. The original bore is not in a good state, may clean up, so in the worst case could bore out to 11/16" if too harsh. What are your thoughts? Are repair kits easy to come by? I'll take the internals out of the one on the bike and see if they are the same as the original, form the piston form, could both be lockheed?

Thanks

Nigel
 
Nigeldtr said:
could both be lockheed?
Click to expand...

Post a photo?

Do they look like this (Norton Lockheed)?
http://www.britcycle.com/products/06-3667a001.htm
Master Cylinder Nissin 4 pot Caliper


Or this (Triumph Lockheed)?
Master Cylinder Nissin 4 pot Caliper

If they are Triumph, then they are available in two piston sizes: 5/8" and 0.7"

Or these?
http://www.oldbritts.com/14_200001.html
Master Cylinder Nissin 4 pot Caliper
 
Hello LAB

Sorry for the delay had some storms and had to fix the roof! I think you are spot on, pistons are - orginal .625", one fitted to Nissin .700" . I have a good mind to recon the original and put it back on. Hopefully it won't make the Nissin too fierce.

PS how do i add pictures can seem to find a tab?

Regards

Nigel
 
Nigeldtr said:
how do i add pictures can seem to find a tab?
Click to expand...

It isn't possible to upload images directly from your computer, at least not yet, and it will only be available to VIP members when it happens, as far as I know.

To add your own images to a post, first you must upload them to an image hosting website, like Photobucket: http://photobucket.com (a basic account is free) then the individual photo URLs (IMG codes) must be inserted into your message.

More detailed instructions on how to do it can be found here:
technical-information-how-post-photos-t2357.html
 
Thanks for posting the photos (I deleted the duplicates)

If the bores are in good condition, then either of those two units can be rebuilt.

The .70" one is an old racing unit I believe (I think the reservoir caps have been swapped over?)
 
Hello LAB,

Really appreciate the help and info. I will see how the bore cleans up - hopefully no grooves. The Commando also has a SU conversion which I would like to put back to Amals and seems to have a competition style head steady (isolastic?) which seems to be better than the original rubber blocks. I have plenty of BSA experience but not much Norton knowledge so a bit of a shot in the dark here and advice welcome

Regards

Nigel

Master Cylinder Nissin 4 pot Caliper
 
Tales I mostly hear over a decade listening in, is Amals are more spunky than the general SU carb if it don't have accelerator pump. Most the tales I've heard of isolastic type top steady is they help handling better than factory but tend to transmit some higher freg. vibes, if that may annoy or not.
 
Hello Hobit,

Thanks for the reply. I battled with a Lightning for about half a year to finally get the twin Amals working properly (thanks to some great websites) and learnt a lot about them so feel confident I can get them set up right the SU I know nothing about and don't really like the look of it. From the reports I have read seems to be a good setup.
 
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