making a custom throttle cable?

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Anything I need to know before I solder this up? Any webpages with tech advice for proper measuring? I think I've got it right, but cables are expensive. Rather make sure the first time :wink:
 
Before I solder up a new cable I set the adjuster up about 30%, that way I have options on both sides of my measurement; I use the free length measurement from the last cable that functioned well. I like silver solder and you can easily melt it with MAP gas.

RS
 
I don't have another cable to measure from which is why I was wondering. The rest is good advice though, thank you :D
 
I have tons of cables in my shop, tell me what carbs and what twist grip and I'll see if I can get you a free length measurement.

RS
 
When I was at N-V Wolverhampton, I was amazed to discover where we bought our cables. There was a supplier down in the west of England who made these very good cables with a Teflon impregnated inner cable and a nylon-lined outer sheath. You could tie a knot in the assembled cable and pull it tight and the force needed to move the inner cable didn't change.

Our mechanics used to go out and get a batch of cables from the supplier, so I never went on the pick-up trips. Apparently, if the mechanics are to be believed, this guy had a production facility in a couple of hen cabins on his farm somewhere in rural Gloustershire. N-V used to order a couple of hundred clutch and throttle cables at a time, and our guys would go pick them up, carriying cash for the transaction!

Honda would have a good laugh at such a system, but I believe those cables were some of the best ever made. I have no idea who the supplier was or where he was located. Maybe his sons are still in business in those chicken coops!
 
this is how i make up all my cables (havent bought one for years )
-take on old inner cable and put it in the twstgrip
-mark it (paint or tip-ex) where it comes out of your twistgrip
-same with carb
these 2 give your free play
-try with an outercable what the best route is for the cable on the bike
-put inner in outer adding the free play
-solder them up ,do not forget to splay the inner before soldering and put some decreaser on as well
 
How do you deal with the outer sheath and ferrule? The spiral steel sheath is no fun to cut cleanly, and I've never been able to reuse a ferrule successfully.
 
maylar said:
How do you deal with the outer sheath and ferrule? The spiral steel sheath is no fun to cut cleanly, and I've never been able to reuse a ferrule successfully.

I used to cut my cables with a Dremel with a cut off wheel but after working on bicycles for a long time I got the proper tool. Go to bicycle shop, they sell a cable cutter which works wonders on... cables :lol: While you are there, you can pick up brake cables which would work well as throttle cables, they also have the ferrules. You can get the outer cables in different colors too. Ask for stainless steel cables, a bit more expensive, but no rust.

Jean
 
pelican said:
I need to go pick up some regular solder. I only have the rosin core for electronics


If the cable is new and clean rosin core will work fine. With any corrosion you will need acid core to expose the clean metal.

It will work better if you use flux in a tin instead of flux cored solder. Dip the end of the cable in the flux before you apply the heat. Then you can use any solder, solid or cored and the solder will wick right up into the cable.

If you melt a bit of solder in a small container and dip the end of the fluxed cable you will get best coverage.

Don't forget to fray the end of the cable before you solder it. The solder has little holding power unless the cable is frayed and expanded. Jim
 
frankdamp said:
When I was at N-V Wolverhampton, I was amazed to discover where we bought our cables. There was a supplier down in the west of England who made these very good cables with a Teflon impregnated inner cable and a nylon-lined outer sheath. You could tie a knot in the assembled cable and pull it tight and the force needed to move the inner cable didn't change.

Our mechanics used to go out and get a batch of cables from the supplier, so I never went on the pick-up trips. Apparently, if the mechanics are to be believed, this guy had a production facility in a couple of hen cabins on his farm somewhere in rural Gloustershire. N-V used to order a couple of hundred clutch and throttle cables at a time, and our guys would go pick them up, carriying cash for the transaction!

Honda would have a good laugh at such a system, but I believe those cables were some of the best ever made. I have no idea who the supplier was or where he was located. Maybe his sons are still in business in those chicken coops!

Great story!

FWIW-I think you could use rosin core solder and put flux on the cable without ill effect. The amount of flux used is subjective anyway and you can clean off the excess after the fact. Just a thought if you don't want to buy more solder.


Edit = I guess comnoz said the same thing. I was just too dense to figure it out. Still a great story Frank!
 
How do you get a nicely formed ball on the ends? Just make a big blob and file it to shape? Is there a die you can solder the ends into?

Dave
69S
 
X1 on bicycle brake cables for throttles. The stainless ones are thinner, more flexible, and obviously strong enough. Brass ferrules are available for the carb and twistgrip end. You can always reuse the ones on an old cable.

making a custom throttle cable?
 
DogT said:
How do you get a nicely formed ball on the ends? Just make a big blob and file it to shape? Is there a die you can solder the ends into?

Dave
69S

Cable manufacturers have a die to do it. You can also buy round cable ends to solder on. Jim
 
ludwig said:
Jeandr said:
.. Go to bicycle shop..
Bicycle shop is the place to go !
Get gear shift cables for racing bicycles . they have a (teflon ?) coating , thinner and much more flexible than std throttle cable .
The outer cables that go with them are also lighter , tinner and more flexible .
remove coating before soldering .

Gear shift cables (the outer part) are not made the same way as standard cables, the steel strands are positionned lenghtwise so the cable does not change in lenght when the handlebars are turned, these are quite necessary for index shifters. For throttles, it is nice to have but not necessary, they are also more expensive than brake cables but compared to "official" motorcycle throttle cables, they are both less expensive. They are not all teflon coated but many aftermarket cables are.

Jean
 
Where do youse guys buy the solder on nipples. I see Walridge has some, as does Old Britts, but there is not much of an explanation of what they are. Venhill has a nice selection with pics and sizes, but just a few nipples from UK would be rather expensive.

Dave
69S
 
Ha, I just had 2 order some cable ends. Finally refilled my propane torch. I started with my adjuster half way and I guess I measured wrong due to changing the carb top and cable intake so I'm going to cut .5" off and re-do it when the cable ends get here...
 
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