Mainshaft Movement

Hey Guys,

With the gearbox in the frame I was doing a 'dry run' assembly of my and outer covers when I noticed side-to-side movement of the mainshaft and clutch assembly. Is this normal, relying on the bearing on the inner g/box cover to keep the shaft running true?

On another note (and possibly related if I have to remove the gearbox), are these steering wheel pullers all that is needed to remove the engine sprocket? I notice the common thread for them is 5/16unf and the "official" tool looks identical to many of the pullers available.

Cowboy Don said:

Hey Guys,

With the gearbox in the frame I was doing a 'dry run' assembly of my and outer covers when I noticed side-to-side movement of the mainshaft and clutch assembly. Is this normal, relying on the bearing on the inner g/box cover to keep the shaft running true?

On another note (and possibly related if I have to remove the gearbox), are these steering wheel pullers all that is needed to remove the engine sprocket? I notice the common thread for them is 5/16unf and the "official" tool looks identical to many of the pullers available.

Click to expand...

1) yes

2) if it's high quality, not Chinese stuff

For main shaft stability both the inner cover nut and the clutch center nut must be rather snug, but I regularly find after a few 1000 miles the clutch nut backs off to find clutch wobble. The other things if nuts tight is the sleeve shaft bushes worn down and of course bad beaking up end bearing.

I have had two cheap steering wheel pullers and one RobusT Norton factory puller fracture before the tapper lock let go even with good heat, so had to get another robust thick block puller and fry pan hot for it to pop off. Slow roasting works better than fast high flame as takes a bit for the pulley metal to respond and expand.

I quit using gaskets a long time ago to forego lay shaft shiming if you have to get in that deep and someday you or someone else will.

I just strained neck and wits to get my outer cover on - off a number of times
to discover that the trick in mine is tipping out the lower cover that slips on lay shaft first and then holding/forcing cover to slip on lay shaft first-most that the shifter pawl. I used head of claw hammer in filler hole to bump-lever bottom cover outward loose first to break sealer ahesiion and free the slight jamming of shafts when seated fully.

I jam screwed in broken off small artist paint brush in shifter shaft to swing it to align with its knuckle roller thingy. Tried pencil eraser 1st and it worked till the eraser broke off inside the threads to pick out.

I think a very high percentage of wobble is from mainshaft wear under the sleeve gear bushes. Lots of stress in this area.

It's easy to replace the bushes but it's a tough bite the bullet and spring for a new mainshaft. So we wobble along until our ships come in.

Thanks.
Despite the movement being normal (by Norton standards) I'm going to remove primary and take a look at the bushes and bearing, may as well since I'm halfway there. Hell, I only opened it up to replace the kickstart pawl to begin with.

Ugh don't rub in the only opening up for one little issue at a time myth. When everything right the clutch basket will not tip/wobble detectable by hand forces. Sleeve bushes sit above oil level and when spun in lower gears, loads and spin pump oil out and not let any back in till in 4th to get some splash drainage in via thin seams at ends of bushes only. I oil groove mine now and use an extra to space the new ones or use the newer style two longer bushes. Buy two first gear bushes.