Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by swooshdave, Jul 22, 2019.
I haven’t heard that. I suspect the lighter pull coupled with heavy hands might make it twitchy.
I would say the term “improved response” would better fit.
I like how it makes the throttle more sensitive. Kinda rejuvenates the feel to when it was new.
Now, I know Don is watching this thread. I hope I didn't piss you off with my opinions on what could be done better to your kit.
We all think this kit is a "it's about time" type of mod.
There are reports here that people have switched the switch clusters so the blinker paddle is on the left else the bike surges when flipping the switch. That seems twitchy to me. Is this not true?
So you’re saying their hand moves when they flip the switch and it’s the throttle’s fault?
I prefer the turn signals on the left. Need to switch the 750 like that.
You must remember that the there is only one cable which does obviously not have the splitter "damper", so the action is lighter and the carbs (in my experience) stay perfectly balanced. Where I live I have to do a right turn followed immediately by a left turn (both uphill), so trying to modulate the throttle whilst braking and flipping the indicators is not easy whatever setup you are using. I have completely rewired all my switches to my preferred layout, and the blinkers are now operated from the left. - Much better.
The tickover adjuster is fiddly as it's so close to the carb body. I drilled an tapped a new 6mm hole about 5-6mm further out then cut a slot in a piece of scrap alloy and glued it onto the quadrant ( see pics below). It's much easier to adjust now, although i'm hoping I won't need to much anymore as I found some bad stuff inside my Amals. https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/amal-premiers.26765/page-2
Yeah, I can't wait to change mine. On my Interstate the turn signal is on the left and much easier to use.
Nice job. I would have drilled and tapped and screwed the extension. Perhaps @madass140 will see this. Is it a huge problem? No? Is it an useful modification? Probably. Like I said once the idle gets dialed in you should rarely need to change it.
I am installing this gantry and find the cable adapter not working.
The OD of the portion of this new slotted alloy adapter to slip into the Mk3 throttle is way too large.
Ah, you have a MKIII I see. It looks like the body is threaded, does the MKIII have an adjuster there normally? If so can't you re use that instead ?
Adjuster and threaded guide tube:
Yep I realize I shouldn't need it now that the carbs have been stripped cleaned, needles and jets replaced, but while it was off I spent an extra hour to modify it. I don't think the extension is going anywhere as I used a flexible polymer adhesive to hold it, and it was quite a snug fit.
Thanks L.A.B. I was just looking on AN as well. I guess that won't help p400 then.
p400, you could mount that ferrule in a drill or lathe If you have access to one, and use a file to reduce the diameter so it will fit into the body.
I needed this ASAP, so I slotted an Amal threaded , carb top adjuster (with nut).
seems to be okay for now.
also had to shave off the fine threads on this new slotted adapter to allow it to slip fit the Mk3 throttle.
Very resourceful !
I found that my application, 1975 Mk3, required that the Amal top holes needed to be enlarged.
Getting the large diameter wire harness out of the way was needed as well.
Not ridden yet, but soon. New Premier Amals installed as well.
I just fitted mine to an August 1974 Mk 11 850 Roadster.
I'm having a tank clearance issue. The pillar is contacting the tank bottom. Definitely an original tank. I have owned the bike since 1978 and talked to the previous owner today.
Anyone else had an issue ?
just installed and fitted mine (also a august 74 Mk2 - roadster, and 99.9% sure it's the original tank). no apparent interference issues. I did have to enlarge one of the holes for the left carburetor slightly - just a few thousandths. my tank uses the standard iso mounts in the rear, and the stacked rubber washers in the front. side note, I did upgrade the mounting and float bowl screws to 5mm socket head cap screws.
Yes. After installation I discovered my fastback tank would not fit. In my case, the tank is a Fiberglass Fastback replacement tank from Burton Bike Bits. Per them, it is, in every way identical to the OEM tank but since it is an aftermarket tank, I assumed there was some difference in the underside that affected the fit. I asked Madass about it after having the problem and he said that the kit would fit any Norton original tank but, of course (and I completely agree) he could not know about the fit with an aftermarket tank. I had some further discussion with Burton BB and they again stated that the tank was identical in all dimensions to the original Fiberglass Fastback tank. But who knows? Since I don't have an original fastback tank, I can't say. Like Joe, I also had to slightly enlarge the left side carb screw holes to align with the Amal Premiers. Perhaps the Premiers are slightly different spec-wise than the originals.
It was disappointing to have to un-install the kit. I took it to our moto club meeting and everyone was impressed with the quality of the machining/bearings, etc. Several people said they wished they had Nortons just so they could buy/install it!
sorry to hear about the interference issue. on my first install, I reused the original carb screws, but was uncomfortable with only a couple threads engaged because of the thickness of the top plate, so I opted to go with longer screws. longer 2BA originals were pricey, and couldn't find any local U.S. stock, so I opted to go with the 5mm - local ace hardware stock. I had the taps, so it was only a couple dollars to switch. off the top of my head, i'm thinking the thread pitch was almost identical and the diameter was only .010" larger. i'm thinking part on the reason why I had to enlarge the mounting hole was because of the hardware switch. it's not relevant to your issue now, but here's a pic of the area - hard to tell, but I probably have a good quarter inch from the cable pillar to the tank --
one final thing, pretty sure I have a non-stock throttle grip, it looks to be some sort of 1/4 turn assembly. when I installed the cable, there was no way to use the cable adapter. am I over looking something and do I need that part, or is it OK as is? it seems to work ok without the adapter, and the cable end fits the twist grip.
What is the consensus on the best cable nipple hole to use in the operating mechanism??