Lumpy's Featherbed Commando

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For what it’s worth, I thought I’d add my thoughts on the whole isolastic / featherlastic thing and describe what I’m proposing to do with my Featherbed Commando.

After quite a bit of reading and also talking to Murray here at Cyclecraft in Perth, it would seem that isolastic mounting is required unless you enjoy being shaken to pieces. The various ‘fixes’ at best seem to make it bearable and personally, I think my 850 shakes quite enough. Call me Mr Wuss, if you will. Murray suggested using the Commando cradle and, as I had a spare one, this suited, so I started there.

The Norton isolastics allow for vibration in all directions in the vertical plane and hold the engine, etc in alignment across that plane. That is a compromise that Buell didn’t make and I’m also planning to separate these components. My plan, however, is to use four Norton isolastic mounts for vibration control (one on the head, one front, one above and one below the swingarm mount) with a cross link alongside each mount. These will be the rose jointed head steady type. The intent is that the isolastic mounts will ‘float’ on the mounting bolts with, say, 10mm(?) clearance either side. The rubber boots will be seals only and the whole arrangement will be held in alignment by the cross links. Theoretically, these should be Watts linkages but, over the small distances the engine moves, a simple link will be adequate. The wideline frame has enough room to make these a decent length too. They have to be oriented across the frame. Anything aligned along the frame must, at some time, have vibration pushing on to it and transfer that directly to the frame.

I’d also read some references to doubt about the rigidity of the standard cradle. It does only consist of two plates with no real diagonal bracing, so this may be correct. It also occurred to me that you have this great long swingarm lever out the back and the only thing trying to keep it in alignment is broken into three parts (front mount, engine, cradle). My plan now is to fabricate a stiff alloy cradle that joins the front isolastic to the two rear isolastics creating a rigid lever to resist the forces from the swingarm. My initial review indicates it should be viable, although I’ll need to consider getting it all in the frame.

IMG_0087Large.jpg

The drawing is a concept only, so don’t look too closely, and doesn’t show various mounts that will be required for the cross links, rear suspension, exhaust, blower, etc.

IMG_0086Large.jpg

These are just my thoughts but, as there’s nothing new under the sun, I assume someone has already done this and I’d be interested to be pointed in their direction or see some photos of what’s been done. Any advice gratefully received.

Regards,

Lance
 
I don't think you'll be able to slip the crankcase down in between the front and rear upper mounting holes...

...also, the sump of the crankcase won't allow you to have that plate in the way there. Perhaps 2 sections, but a needed space for clearance where the sump bits stick down (more than just a hole in the plate).
 
LanceH said:
My plan, however, is to use four Norton isolastic mounts for vibration control (one on the head, one front, one above and one below the swingarm mount) with a cross link alongside each mount.... Theoretically, these should be Watts linkages but,...

No, four coupling rods with spherical joints are what is required. Four Watts linkages would over-constrain the cradle by 1 (as would four isos). It will work but only because it would rely on something in the whole kinematic chain being flexible.


Tim
 
Thanks for the comments, chaps.

Paul, I have (only) looked at installing the engine into a cradle. There is one area on the right rear side of the case that pokes backwards and would preclude a straight “drop in”, however, it also looks to be possible if the engine is laid back to drop in past this bit and then rolled forward to align the bolt holes.

The bottom plate would clash as drawn, but this is only a concept. My original thought was to weld the plate to the bottom of the mounting plates forming a channel. When I extended this plate to join the swingarm and isolastic mounts, I moved it up. The location of this plate can (will) change.

The next step is to get all the bits up on a bench and play with it to see if it works and make some templates to suit. We’ll see what happens. I’ve had better ideas than this that have failed miserably.

Tim, four coupling rods with spherical joints is the plan. The Watts linkages would do a similar job, but doubles the number of spherical joints and complexity for little return. This is not a planar four-bar linkage as your reference; the spherical joints allow more movement than that example.

The isolastics will only allow the whole engine / cradle to move up to about 8mm from the isolastic centre point in any centreline plane direction, less for the rear, so we’re talking small distances. That’s my measured assessment, anyway. Is there actually any data available on how much the engine moves and in what directions? The plan is to use two of the smaller rear isos and two larger front isos. With the engine / cradle held from sideways movement by the coupling rods, it is possible to experiment with the number of rubber donuts in each iso to obtain the best result.

Regards,

Lance
 
I got to ask this WHY, I have built my 850 Commando in a Wideline Featherbed since 1980, first thing I did to the motor was to get the crank balanced for the Featherbed frame, mine was balanced at 72%, some say to do it a bit more but it seems to be right for my motor and its smooth as to ride, my motor has some work done to it for more performance, I do get some vibs at about 115 MPH but smooths out at 118 MPH and then again at 123 MPH but smooths out again, but now I am 53 years old I don't need to do that speed, but its good to know its there if I need it :twisted: but I do ride my bike hard every time I ride it, I do cruise on 75 MPH and sometimes more and take it over the TON quiet abit.

In the 31 years its been in the Featherbed I have never had a engine mount bolt come loose so I think I must have been on the right road when building it, my point of view is that Featherbed frames were designed to be hard mounted and to change the design to rubber mount the engine would take away the great handling these frames are made for, I push my Norton hard into corners, through and out of the corners and I think it handles so well because the motor is hard mounted and to rubber mount the motor will take that good handling away, but this is only my idea, if I would have listened to everone that cridersized me for convering my Commando to a Featherbed frame in the 80's, I wouldn't have one of the best handling 850 on the road now and with the improvements I have done in the last rebuild, Lansdown damper in the front end, Jim's new PWK carbies, Joe Hunt maggie, belt drive primary and a few other little things that have been done, I ride this bike 6 days out of 7 and still have some of the best times of my life when riding it and will so till the day I die I hope.

Ashley
 
We expect better pictures than these , but it may help ? .

Lumpy's Featherbed Commando


Lumpy's Featherbed Commando


This is a 72 Combat 750 , from ' Big Bike ' mag or suchlike Aeons ago , had a feature on it .
Cant help thinking that if coustom plates being done , the cylinder axis in line with the front tubes would be better .
Get the c shaft down & Fwd , and appeal to the eye . Were remaks on C'do launch re ' allways wondered why someone didnt tilt the engine fwd. to see if they could put the vibrations elsewhere .Picture is Manx frame , alledgedly the single frames are more spacious , so direct appraisal would show other clearances in a twin chassis .

Fancy covers on pipes for pillions inner leg might look buck rogers like , & Id get the spaceing so the knees get in the tank cutouts easy enough .Bloke we knew had a Ex Biff wiffle 75 Commando F'Bed , they just chucked a F bed flywheel in ,Though
I cant help thinking the roadster flywheel is a bit overweight, so a few Lbs pulled of in the right place could get the factor in.

72 % used to be a famous number for raceing , 65 to 85 considered viable .( solid mounted ) but mounts /frame / bolts
made the optimum for each machine vary . The HEAD STEADY on the FRAME / ENGINE is crucial for frame strength .

The 8.5 : 1 C.R. pistons would hold the vibes harshness a way . 8.7 was oodles in a 750 for really fast , still a chore to swing
through cold , and a effort hot , with the 2S cam . :lol:
 
Its a much better idea to just go to lighter pistons and solve the vibration problem that way. Stock 850 Norton pistons weight about 320 grams. The 850 JS lightweight pistons are down to 205 grams. Longer rods also help reduce vibration. If you really want to smooth things out you can get the bottom side of the pistons 3D milled so they are consitant in thickness around the valve pockets etc. But this would be a special order and you have to get 4 pistons - still cheaper than all that iso work and you take so much stress off the motor. I 3D undermilled the pistons in my own 750 featherbed and the pistons weigh only 170 grams each. It rides comfortably and revs very freely. I suggest a balance factor of 68% for the JS lightweight pistons.

Jim S


Lumpy's Featherbed Commando
 
Interesting.

Ashley, “Why?”. . . . . . Vibration, mate, vibration.

The real question is not “why am I adding isolastics”, but why, if it is only a matter of balance factor or lighter pistons, did Norton feel the need to ditch the legendary featherbed frame and design and build an entirely new frame including isolastics?

My research indicates that there is no option as the engine size, and forces get bigger. As Matt’s reply demonstrates, there are many views on what should be done to “solve” the featherbed vibration problem. There also seems to be much disappointment with the solutions. As Matt also stated, and I agree, the optimum for each machine varies. You appear to be one of the lucky ones and your bike works, but you also seem to be in the minority, from what I can make out. Or maybe you young Queensland guys are more resilient (I’m 56 and in Perth). Or maybe I’m just reading the failures and the good examples are keeping quiet.

My work involves designing and building offshore oil platforms where noise and vibration is an huge problem. The mantra is “isolate at source” and that’s what I’m doing (as did Norton). I don’t believe my proposal will compromise the frame design. Rideability, if anything, should increase. I’m not a good enough rider to push these bikes to their limits anyway. I’ve fallen off enough already.

Your response got me thinking though, and several questions occur to me and I thought I would put them to this venerable and knowledgable forum. I certainly don’t know the answers, so I’m counting on you guys out there.

Is the featherbed as good as they say it is? I accept that it’s a legend, but my reading is that it was light years ahead in the early years, but Triumph, etc caught up in the latter years, resulting in the Commando we know and love.

Is a decently sorted Commando better than a featherbed? My understanding is that they are, but I’ve only ridden Commandos, so can’t say. What are the views from people that have ridden both?

I may look at trying my proposal on my Commando, but will probably keep it standard. Can anyone say whether the cross stay solution to the Commando isolastics results in a significantly better bike than standard?

I look forward to your views and general abuse regarding these, admittedly general questions. I’m about to get on a plane for the Territory (Northern), to catch up with my wife and a few crocodiles for ten days. See you when I get back.

Cheers,

Lance
 
LanceH said:
The real question is not “why am I adding isolastics”, but why, if it is only a matter of balance factor or lighter pistons, did Norton feel the need to ditch the legendary featherbed frame and design and build an entirely new frame including isolastics?

Simply because the technology wasn't available back then. Pistons have evolved quite a bit since then not to mention the DLC coating.


Tim
 
Cool build idea LanceH. Your initial mock up photo seems like it would be a real nut buster to ride, what with the fastback seat section and all. LOL . Seriously though, I've always thought it would be a good project, and lately have seem more than a couple slimline frames out there on E-Bay. Cj
 
Lance,

I have Jim's Piston & rod kit in a standard 850 Commando, so I can't give you experience in a Featherbed frame, but I can assure you the money spent is money well spent on the lighter reciprocating weight. And, yes it does act on the source of your irritation, rather than masking it. Balance factor alteration is important aswell, the std 52% in the Commando is pretty low a higher percentage as discovered by trial and error on Atlas's shifts the plane of the vibes to harmonise within the McCandless frame design. I have only riden a featherbed Triton and although the Commando in my opinion handle pretty good, the featherbed is PURE.

Lance, hope this helps mate?

Cheers Richard
 
LanceH said:
Interesting.

Ashley, “Why?”. . . . . . Vibration, mate, vibration.

The real question is not “why am I adding isolastics”, but why, if it is only a matter of balance factor or lighter pistons, did Norton feel the need to ditch the legendary featherbed frame and design and build an entirely new frame including isolastics?
.......................quote]

Yes, the 750 Atlas was renowned for vibration hence Norton dropping the Featherbed frame when they targeted the 750 class with what was practically a marketing exercise with the Commando.
I think you practically hit the nail on the head as to why Norton did not continue to use this frame and went the whole hog in trying to isolate the vibration of the 750 engine.
It seems lighter pistons and Ashman’s version of his 850 Norton in a featherbed frame is the right way to go at least it seems to work for him.
Look up his other contributions on the website, in the Classic bike section.
 
Hi Lance and everyone else

I was lucky in my young days the first Norton I ever rode was a mates 750 Comando/Wideline Featherbed, I was 17 the year 1976, my mate gave me his bike for the day while he played on my dirtbike for the day, so off I went up the mountains for some tight corner riding, after that ride within 2 weeks I brought a new 74 850 Commando Roadster, but still liked the way the Featherbed handled, my friend Don who owned the 750 Wideline changed his ideas and started to build Tritons using Slimline Featherbed frames so in 1979 I had the chance to buy his old Wideline featherbed frame that his 750 was mounted in - the motor.
I knew what was needed to be done to mount a Commando motor into a Featherbed, I planned to use my Commando frontend and rear wheel but with Akron Alloy rims, after stripping the 850 motor down I took the cam to Ivan Tighte cams in Brisbane to get the cam build up to a SS cam grind, while there I asked Ivan if he could recomand anyony to ballance my crank, he put me onto a old English gentleman down the road that build Fomal 3 race engines and Chassies as soon as I told the gentleman what I was doing he told me he will ballance the crank to 72% and told me what parts he needed to do the ballancing.

Well the motor has been in the Featherbed for over 30 years now with the same crank but has had a major rebuild in the last 18months, I have never had any problems with vibrations, I have never had any engine mount bolts come loose in all that time and I only use fine thread bolts with spring washers, but one of the most important thing is you must have a very strong head stay as well I use steel engine mounts, so I think I was lucky to find someone that knew all about ballancing factors and he knew all about Nortons and featherbed frames.

Ashley

Lumpy's Featherbed Commando



Lumpy's Featherbed Commando
 
i am building ( well almost finished ) a featherbed commando , could be usefull for you

topic : not a caferacer

perhaps LAB or someboy else could put a proper link here , just a thought
 
lynxnsu said:
i am building ( well almost finished ) a featherbed commando , could be usefull for you

topic : not a caferacer

perhaps LAB or someboy else could put a proper link here , just a thought

Here's the link not-caferacer-t9368.html

Lynxnsu, have you finished your build yet?

All the best

Webby
 
well , as the bike was not ready for the IOM (september ) i lost a bit of interest in it ,
also the clutch is giving me problems in that the laydown box has got a worm - mechanism to push the clutch open , but only has 1,5mm lift
i modified (shortened ) the arm inside the inner cocer to give more movement but still not enough
i am nw making a lever-multiplier (self invented word so no-one understands so no difficult questions)

the rest is very near finished (wiring , head-steady , oil cirquit , rec-counter )
alas my pc has crashed (only 12 years old )so i now use my daughters laptop but can not put pics on , hope to get a NOS pc soon........
 
LanceH said:
Interesting.



Is the featherbed as good as they say it is? I accept that it’s a legend, but my reading is that it was light years ahead in the early years, but Triumph, etc caught up in the latter years, resulting in the Commando we know and love.

Is a decently sorted Commando better than a featherbed? My understanding is that they are, but I’ve only ridden Commandos, so can’t say. What are the views from people that have ridden both?

I may look at trying my proposal on my Commando, but will probably keep it standard. Can anyone say whether the cross stay solution to the Commando isolastics results in a significantly better bike than standard?

I look forward to your views and general abuse regarding these

Cheers,

Lance


i have ridden both and featherbed handling IS superior , but if one wants the performance of a commando then there is a penalty
it is a matter of choice ;, comfort or performance
i expect my Dominator to handle better than a commando , but not as smooth as a std domi
ps mu commando got 4 isolastics so handling should be ok ,(it is ) but again at the expense of vibration ( a bag of nails has been used to subscribe it by people who tested it)
 
Nothing Wrong with This Commando . :lol:

Lumpy's Featherbed Commando


Actually , I should think it would depend on the Commando , and the style .

Be intrested if it was the Thruxton Motorcycles P.R. that got around 107 in 78 or 81 or thereabouts .
Was a ' 850 ' black P.R. with 18 in rear and TT 100s . Vrrm Vrrm . :lol: ( I.o.M. lap , of course ) .

Dialing the swine in , to suit the operators particulars could be more than half of it .
' Featherbed ' covers Three Series of Manxes , and several differant road machines
so ' a featherbed ' is like saying ' a Cortina ' . Which One . Lotus ? :lol: 8) Believe
it or not , THEY go better with truck engines ( V4 ) and will tow a truck out of a ditch.
We change a few things on them , too . :P :wink:

Lumpy's Featherbed Commando
 
Matt Spencer said:
Nothing Wrong with This Commando . :lol:

Lumpy's Featherbed Commando


Actually , I should think it would depend on the Commando , and the style .

Be intrested if it was the Thruxton Motorcycles P.R. that got around 107 in 78 or 81 or thereabouts .
Was a ' 850 ' black P.R. with 18 in rear and TT 100s . Vrrm Vrrm . :lol: ( I.o.M. lap , of course ) .

Dialing the swine in , to suit the operators particulars could be more than half of it .
' Featherbed ' covers Three Series of Manxes , and several differant road machines
so ' a featherbed ' is like saying ' a Cortina ' . Which One . Lotus ? :lol: 8) Believe
it or not , THEY go better with truck engines ( V4 ) and will tow a truck out of a ditch.
We change a few things on them , too . :P :wink:

Lumpy's Featherbed Commando


No Isolastics on the works monocoque Matt....

By my recollection, by '78 Thruxton Motorcycles were running Rickman Kawasaki 900s as 'production racers'! So it was probably '76 or '77, do you know who rode it?

From around '77, Thruxton, like a few other Commando PRs ran the KR91 endurance tyre on 18 rims on open class and club level bikes where the production rules would not have been so strongly enforced, 18" KR91 tyres were wider and a high profile so they had the same rolling diameter as a 19" KR83, I reckon it would have been a backward step to use an 18" 410 TT100, and I am not aware of wider TT100s than that in period?
 
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