Lubricating Swing Arm

put your bike on the side stand or kick stand....(I want another discussion going here) :mrgreen:
and take out the nipple. Put your juice in... 140 preferable, and when it starts coming out from over flow, recap it with the fitting. oh and by the way make sure the nipple is at the 12 o clock position to get as much oil in as possible with the bike leaning on the side stand.
works for me. Job done.
Cheers,
Tom
CNN

hobot said:

Critically, however, high
speed and rotational motion are both required to draw the
oil out and maintain a full film of lubricant. Shaft oscillation,
slow speed, and intermittent use can all inhibit this process.
If movement stops, the oil on the bearing surface dries up.
This can lead to higher friction and squeaking. High tem-
peratures can also break down the oil.

Click to expand...

This is why the "wet" condition is maintained by the felt washer(s). Also keeping oil in the system is important.

dennisgb said:

hobot said:

Critically, however, high
speed and rotational motion are both required to draw the
oil out and maintain a full film of lubricant. Shaft oscillation,
slow speed, and intermittent use can all inhibit this process.
If movement stops, the oil on the bearing surface dries up.
This can lead to higher friction and squeaking. High tem-
peratures can also break down the oil.

Click to expand...

This is why the "wet" condition is maintained by the felt washer(s). Also keeping oil in the system is important.

Click to expand...

I use X-Ring type instead of O-rings to help keep the oil in this area. I also shim the tolerance between the cradle and the swingarm to about 0.005" using shim spacers to help keep the oil in.
Cheers,
Tom
CNN

Newb here. Where do I find a 140 oil? Is this really thin stuff? Also where can I find x rings to repackage those spindles? Thanks Ken

Rusty bucket said:

Newb here. Where do I find a 140 oil? Is this really thin stuff? Also where can I find x rings to repackage those spindles? Thanks Ken

Click to expand...

Ken
140 wt is a gearoil (thick) if you can't find it then use EP 90wt. the same that goes into the gearbox.
X-ring or Quad Ring O-rings have been available for quite some time:
https://images.search.yahoo.com/images/ ... rt=mozilla
any place that sells O-rings will supply the Quad rings. Viton or Buna it Oil rated.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

Hi Thomas, can you remember the exact size, part number or where you purchased the swinging arm quad rings you used? I am about to do this and would prefer to use those seals.

Cheers
Jerry

Jerry Doe said:

Hi Thomas, can you remember the exact size, part number or where you purchased the swinging arm quad rings you used? I am about to do this and would prefer to use those seals.

Cheers
Jerry

Click to expand...

Hey Jerry
I can do that. Q-4212 and Q-4223 are the sizes for the swing arm. and while you are at it if you have a pre 75 gear box use Q-4213 and Q-4114 for the kick-start output and gear-change shafts and Q-4213 for the cam plate and quadrant shafts. Edit to the post to show correct Kickstart shaft size which should be Q-4214. Apologies for the wrong size. I believe AN now sells there rebuild kits with Quad rings for the gearbox. You need to shim the swing arm as stated above. Mac Carr has the correct sizes and shim widths. ID 1.1350", OD 1.625" Here is a PDF: http://o-ring.info/en/technical%20manua ... -rings.pdf
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

I savor the distracting stresses of this level of Commando refinement even if I giggle at you non greasers I too once was a confirmed revisoir site tube supplied oiler till I could watch how much dissappeared on a ride, so suggesting use thickest oil short of grease sticky as chicken shit slow flow Engine Honey / STP. For the really dedicated oilers with luck of the draw parts clearnaces call around or search online for the thickest engine pre lube oil that make STP look like diluted warm honey. This is NOT the tooth paste like black Molibium goops, good as they may be. Seriously I got cussed out calling it greaase by race engine builder i took pre peel barrel too, I stuck a knife blade in it 1/2 inch and it took 24 hours for one drop to drip. Its tedious to get in its so thick but is garanteed to stick around and flow on intial dry starts. Yet its so thin oil flowing if slow that ya may not be able to seal it in even with the edgey quad seals perfectly fitted but will resist spindle rusting if leaked out a long time unused. If i can get more of it from the builder I will use it instead of greasing Peel as just such factinating effective stuff but i do not want that much attention spent on plain jane Trixie which remains a lazy shade tree greaser.

Shoot about any engine prelube might do the trick even anti-sezie for schizo comprimise oil/grease rust inhibitor. Wet sump annoys engine starts but dry sump rusts spindles so monitor liguid lube is only way to know as flexing loads on some what heated riding may drool out on the fly but not at parked at home. I know this is a blood sport and can not predict how long a Commando might set up all straight and nice or mangled with swing arm skewed on cradle so ya do not ever want to face a rust swollen spindle. Liguid lube needs a good mommy doing gardenings & only takes one dry spell to spoil the vegies. I tend to think of the next guy a fair time after I am done with mine as I know I sure thought about what those before me did to mine. So not saying ya oilers or Norton are wrong just near sighted

Down side of the dry graphite upgrade bushes is - what? ...

Hi Thomas,

Thanks for the info.