LP Williams hydraulic clutch on triple

baz

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Would anyone have original fitting instructions for the LP Williams hydraulic clutch conversion on a triple
All I need to know is how to adjust it
I know it's basically self adjusting but with the adjuster nut near the end of the pull rod I'm not getting enough lift
With it adjusted in to get the required lift it feels like the pull rod is under load
Just wondered if anyone has the original instructions
I've also asked on triplesonline
Cheers
 
Not sure if it's on the club service notes cd. I'm away till next week,I will have a look then.
 
Someone came through for me on the the t160 appreciation society on Facebook with the original fitting and adjustment instructions from LP Williams
Cheers
(It's the first time faceache has been any use to me )
@baz is it worth uploading a copy to the resources section?
 
@baz is it worth uploading a copy to the resources section?
Seems I am not computer savvy enough to upload these to resources
So if anyone can do that for me they are here
Cheers
 

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Wow, that sure looks easy. Five minute job and you have removed any issues with the clutch!
...talk about forlorn hope...
Makes the Bob Newby clutch and belt drive seem like the bargain purchase of the year.
 
I fitted one of these kits to a friends T160 ten or more years ago. The one thing I noticed was the Magura master cylinder could only provide around 0.028" lift. At the time I calculated that a 1mm larger m/c would give 0.035" if my memory serves me correctly. I think the supplied m/c was 10mm dia. & an 11mm was available.
 
I fitted one of these kits to a friends T160 ten or more years ago. The one thing I noticed was the Magura master cylinder could only provide around 0.028" lift. At the time I calculated that a 1mm larger m/c would give 0.035" if my memory serves me correctly. I think the supplied m/c was 10mm dia. & an 11mm was available.
Well that's looking very marginal for me
As statically bench testing my clutch is releasing at 0.0028" at the moment
But I've got my clutch plate away at the moment being relined
So I'll set it up again when I have it back and see if I can improve on it
 
Beset with similar clutch issues, looking forward to your final report and promise I'll bore you all with my ongoing story when
it all gets put back together. If I live that long.
 
Beset with similar clutch issues, looking forward to your final report and promise I'll bore you all with my ongoing story when
it all gets put back together. If I live that long.
Oh it gets worse
I discovered the 5 speed I bought in good faith for my rocket 3 has a slightly bent main shaft
Plus some wear on the high gear needle rollers !!
Etc etc
 
We bow to Fast Eddie and his dictum that you pay top price for the best stuff once rather than paying several times for disappointing bits needing to be replaced by the former with a greatly increased final price.
You could use the bent shaft as a thrown object through the offending vendors back window....
 
I fitted one of these kits to a friends T160 ten or more years ago. The one thing I noticed was the Magura master cylinder could only provide around 0.028" lift. At the time I calculated that a 1mm larger m/c would give 0.035" if my memory serves me correctly. I think the supplied m/c was 10mm dia. & an 11mm was available.
The clutch master cylinder supplied by LPW is a Magura 9.5mm. I was getting 0.030" / 0.032" lift.
Magura do make a 10.5mm clutch master cylinder as well (unless it is 11mm), if they are still in production.
 
The clutch master cylinder supplied by LPW is a Magura 9.5mm. I was getting 0.030" / 0.032" lift.
Magura do make a 10.5mm clutch master cylinder as well (unless it is 11mm), if they are still in production
I had it in mind they were 10 & 11 but I don't doubt you. The clutch ideally requires 0.035" lift unless you manage to assemble it in the perfect orientation. Sometimes this is possible, but other times I have found it near impossible.
On my own T150 the clutch is fine & neutral is always easy to find, but working on a friends T150 a short while ago, I could not get the clutch to completely free off with less than 0.035" lift, even after assembling it every which way. This was on the second attempt after sending the first replacement plate back, as it was 0.008" thicker on one side than the other.
 
.........The clutch ideally requires 0.035" lift unless you manage to assemble it in the perfect orientation. Sometimes this is possible, but other times I have found it near impossible.
On my own T150 the clutch is fine & neutral is always easy to find, but working on a friends T150 a short while ago, I could not get the clutch to completely free off with less than 0.035" lift, even after assembling it every which way. ........
I agree that typically you would need up to 0.035" lift with many triples. Luckily for me, Keith Berry has sorted my clutch and not only is it quite light, it does releases at about 0.025".
 
I find so much of the problem to be release point when HOT. Mine is fine when you set out but in short order you cannot select
first unless moving.
 
We bow to Fast Eddie and his dictum that you pay top price for the best stuff once rather than paying several times for disappointing bits needing to be replaced by the former with a greatly increased final price.
You could use the bent shaft as a thrown object through the offending vendors back window....
I can't really throw anything through anyone's window as he is no longer with us
And I bought the gear cluster from his son
It looked like it'd been earmarked for a trident Triton he was building but I'll never know
I'm doubting he even knew the shaft was bent given the date on the newspaper it was wrapped in I'm guessing he'd bought it that way
Which leads me to wonder how it got bent ?
I've bent a main shaft on a commando when a chain case securing bolt dropped out onto the primary chain which made the chain jump sideways
It took out the alternator and the mounting poles plus bent the output shaft
But on a trident the clutch is quite well supported
 
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