Lost that spark, found it, then lost it again.

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Captain B

Captain B

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Once in a while I'll just be tooling along and the engine stops. Some times it will roll start itsself before I slow all the way down, other times I have to come to a stop and after a few cranks on the starter it will fire back up and run just fine. Where should I start looking? I'm guessing it is electrical, but I don't see any loose wires. It has stock points.
 
As you are losing both sides I would be looking at the Kill switch, feed to points and ignition switch for dodgy connections or worn out contacts.
 
Agreed. Kill switch or check the 10 pin connector in the loom under the tank. Make sure your white wires are secure and the the metal sleeves in the loom are not brolen/cracked.
 
I have had a cracked wire in the resistor that made intermittent contact. Also grab the main loom, twist it over and slit the covering a bit. Poke around in there for the ign feed wire. Over time and with people leaving the key on by mistake with the points closed and or shorting it out, the wire gets too hot and fries the covering.Best to bypass the handlbar kill switch and go right to the coils. Have had both issues. While at it set up an emergency hot wire to feed the ignition in case of zener or other catastophic short. It happens!
 
also very possible you have a bad (intermittent) ground wire connection, I would look there first, then battery connections including the fuse itself, then forward in wiring from there?
 
You will want that kill switch when the bike does a Toyota thing! Not unheard of and it happened to me when I was using a single Mikuni with only the Mikuni spring. If the kill switch is the problem then just cleaning the contacts would probably last another 35 years.
 
Yes, but doesn't a Norton have a clutch. All you have to do is pull the clutch in and that's it. I realize it is not the ultimate solution and a kill switch is a very good idea. What I wonder is why the guy in the Prius just didn't shift the car into neutral. Not a big brain drain there? Or maybe they lock the shifter into drive, but I can't believe that. I don't understand why the manufactures just don't have an over ride on the brake that defeats the accelerator pedal, not a big deal. This is not rocket science.

My 2 cents end of rant.

Dave
69S
 
Well, I rebuilt the kill switch (along with the whole right side) last summer, so, it's probably OK. I guess the dead givaway would have been if I'd noticed the headlight go out or something, but I pretty much only ride in the day. I will check grounds first and go from there.
 
The kill switch circuit seems to reduce voltage going to the ignition, even when it works. I run a two position relay with power feed direct from the loom to the ignition and use the kill switch simply to trigger the relay off when required.
 
DogT said:
Yes, but doesn't a Norton have a clutch. All you have to do is pull the clutch in and that's it. I realize it is not the ultimate solution and a kill switch is a very good idea. What I wonder is why the guy in the Prius just didn't shift the car into neutral. Not a big brain drain there? Or maybe they lock the shifter into drive, but I can't believe that. I don't understand why the manufactures just don't have an over ride on the brake that defeats the accelerator pedal, not a big deal. This is not rocket science.

My 2 cents end of rant.

Dave
69S
Click to expand...

Dave

I had my Mikuni stick open at full throttle one time and pulling in the clutch only had the engine spinning upwards to destruction and I only had time to hit the kill switch.
The same would happen with Prius if put into neutral unless it has a rev limiter. I'd turn off the key!
I've now added an Amal spring and the Mikuni hasn't tried to kill me since. :lol:

Bob
 
My kill switch went intermittant many years ago and I could not make any repair that worked reliably. I cleaned and burnished the contacts, stretched the little spring, and nothing worked. The damn thing would just suddenly quit on the road. I ended up soldering a jumper wire across it. I wish the internals of the switch cluster were available as replacements, I might try again to refurbish it but for 30 years I've just kept my throttle cables in good order and not worried about it.
 
Welp, I believe we have a winner. Went for a ride today and it died at about 50 mph. Left it in gear and waited for the roll start, but it didn't come, so I flipped the kill switch off then on again and BINGO she fired right back up. 8)
 
Captain B said:
I don't see a relay in that line on my wiring diagram. :? ???
Click to expand...

Some people suggest putting one in so that a weak connection at the kill switch might not stop the bike. It of course depends on a somewhat functioning kill switch so if it's completely toast it won't work.
 
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