lets go racing

That is a very nice bike, however it needs two discs on the front and one on the rear. With a rear disc, it is usually possible to have the calliper on a plate which pivots on a spacer on the reax axle, with a torque stay to the engine plate. It might be safer than the drum brake and give more control.
 
I was wondering - did the Japanese build this bike or was it imported from the UK ?
Does anybody recognise it !
 
Al I've run it with big Norvil front discs on the Seeley Mk4 with a Seeley disc rear. Result? shattered the rear allen head bolts on the rear wheel ( no cush ) rebuilt with big m10 bolts. Handling is better with the single disc front end & is more than enough brake. If you put a top rider on he could probably make use of twin discs when running with the Tridents. However it's all about a combination of what works & for me & my riding style, it works.
 
For now I'm going to stick with the lightened conical rear drum, seeing how things progress after a season I can always change out the rear. Up front I'm sticking with a single disc/AP caliper combo (floaters are not permitted in period 2), I've got yokes and a Cosentino bushing kit ordered from NYC Norton. Will be lacing the hubs to 18" rims
 
Al I've run it with big Norvil front discs on the Seeley Mk4 with a Seeley disc rear. Result? shattered the rear allen head bolts on the rear wheel ( no cush ) rebuilt with big m10 bolts. Handling is better with the single disc front end & is more than enough brake. If you put a top rider on he could probably make use of twin discs when running with the Tridents. However it's all about a combination of what works & for me & my riding style, it works.
A Commando engined bike should crap on a Trident. I use the old style Norton clutch with the cush centre - single row primary chain with floating Jawa engine sprocket. It is all much lighter, and just as strong. I like front brakes which I can lock with one finger at any speed. You probably need to remove weight from your bike.
I don't have a riding style, I adapt to the bike. What it can do determines how I use it. If it frightens me, I go slower.
 
A Commando engined bike should crap on a Trident. I use the old style Norton clutch with the cush centre - single row primary chain with floating Jawa engine sprocket. It is all much lighter, and just as strong. I like front brakes which I can lock with one finger at any speed. You probably need to remove weight from your bike.
I don't have a riding style, I adapt to the bike. What it can do determines how I use it. If it frightens me, I go slower.
Al, if Chris wants advice from you he’ll ask.

But don’t hold your breath whilst waiting for that to happen.

If you’re gonna give him any advice… it should be about his choice of frame colour !

FWIW, frame colour not withstanding, his Seeley is in an entirely freakin’ different league to yours.

And it did more laps last year than yours in the last 20.

You need to learn when to reign in the waffle Al.
 
I was wondering - did the Japanese build this bike or was it imported from the UK ?
Does anybody recognise it !

See answer here


Ken
 
See answer here


Ken
It seems to have been built in Japan out of British parts. If it was done recently, that is pretty impressive. It would be difficult to get the bits these days, and finding out how to assemble them into a sensible package. When I built my Seeley 850, I never believed in it. But now I know it was worth building.
 
Update.

Some goodies arrived from NYC Norton and Madass

Fork yokes and Consentino bushing kit from NYC

lets go racing
lets go racing


Dampers and T140 rear hub assembly from Don

lets go racing


Ikon aluminum shocks arrived last week, just waiting on rims/spokes so I can get the rolling chassis finished. Next up is saving for a Molnar crank, reading through the many threads on the topic I'm considering it insurance. P2 supervintage rules prevent me from using a floaating front disc, so unless someone has any thoughts on a steel solid disc I'm stuck using the norton rotor. Have a Grimeca alloy caliper on the way for that.

lets go racing
lets go racing
lets go racing
 
It seems strange that you cant use the Norvil Proddie front disc? Not that they float much lol but they are a good brake.
Not sure if I had a set of solid ones once?
 
It seems strange that you cant use the Norvil Proddie front disc? Not that they float much lol but they are a good brake.
Not sure if I had a set of solid ones once?
I'll have to ask the tech rules guy I've been chatting with, looking at Norvil's site it seems I would also need the 3 piece norvil hub?

Anyway, got some shop time in... drilling me some "go fast" holes into the rear hub/sprocket ;)

lets go racing
 
I believe some classes do not allow the ‘Norvil’ brake AS IN the modern lightweight floating discs now sold by the Norvil Motorcycle Company AKA Les Emery.

But I can’t see any logic for not allowing ‘Norvil’ brakes AS IN the Norton production racer self aligning disc brake introduced by Norton back in the day.

However, unless you get lucky on ebay etc, the prod racer set up is hardly what you’d call a budget option…
 
On the front of my Seeley, I use a CB750 Honda hub with two Suzuki steel discs and two Lockheed callipers with asbestos pads - it needs that much brakes. The bike is light, but fast enough for stopping to be a problem. If you are not used to racing, what seems to be OK, might not be. When I want my bike to stop, it needs to really stop. I can lock the front wheel when I am doing 100 MPH down a straight.
 
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