Leaking Oil Tank Filter

spartanman · Jul 20, 2017

The Norton Newbie is back with another probably stupid question. It appears I have oil leaking from the oil tank filter (75 MkIII). First - the nut is bigger than any socket I possess and even if I had one, I don't see an easy way to get a wrench on it without some major disassembly. Is there some special tool/procedure for getting at this thing or do you have to take the oil tank out? Any suggestions are appreciated.

The Buckeye Rider · Jul 20, 2017

Stopping the oil leak could be as simple as annealing the copper sealing washers. Heat them up red hot and let them cool then reinstall. This gets them very soft and they will crush/seat better. Get a wrench and grind it down to fit.
ride On
Dave

dave M · Jul 20, 2017

I have the correct socket for this but I recall that I had to relieve the mudguard a little with a ball-peen hammer to get clear access. be careful that there is no paint on the sealing edge of the tank and as The Buckeye Rider says either anneal the copper washer or if using crushable alloy then replace.

madass140 · Jul 20, 2017

maybe it just needs tightening a bit. the standard washers are alloy.

Fast Eddie · Jul 21, 2017

madass140 said:
maybe it just needs tightening a bit. the standard washers are alloy.

What?

Where's the fun in that??

He needs to remove the tank, fit a new threaded bush using a rare and fine NASA thread. Then make up a new filter fitting, out of titanium. Then turn up special 'one off' washers that MUST be made out if kryptonite, heated to 1002.8 degrees celcius and quenched in Seahorse milk. The oil filter fitting needs an electronic device adding, I don't know what for, but never mind that. This important electronic device needs wiring in via a series of relays and controlled by a PCB, which requires a negative earth wiring system, a 48 volt battery an atomic alternator.

Tighten it indeed! Pah!

ashman · Jul 21, 2017

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Towner · Jul 21, 2017

Hi,

the oil tanks tend to crack at the bottom fixing bolt. I would first rule that out.

Ralf

eskasteve · Jul 21, 2017

Fast Eddie said:
madass140 said:

maybe it just needs tightening a bit. the standard washers are alloy.

Click to expand...

What?

Where's the fun in that??

He needs to remove the tank, fit a new threaded bush using a rare and fine NASA thread. Then make up a new filter fitting, out of titanium. Then turn up special 'one off' washers that MUST be made out if kryptonite, heated to 1002.8 degrees celcius and quenched in Seahorse milk. The oil filter fitting needs an electronic device adding, I don't know what for, but never mind that. This important electronic device needs wiring in via a series of relays and controlled by a PCB, which requires a negative earth wiring system, a 48 volt battery an atomic alternator.

Tighten it indeed! Pah!

Matt at Colorado Norton Works probably already has this kit available. It would include only the finest Swedish kryptonite.

grandpaul · Jul 21, 2017

Some auto parts stores sell a large box-end wrench for installing auto trailer hitch balls; that one is great for getting that oil tank filter/nut on and off, as well as the large crankcase sump screen/nut. If I remember right, the larger end fits the drive sprocket fixing nut, too!

Torontonian · Jul 21, 2017

Towner has a good point. I've never seen that big nut leak. The long little one underneath the tank sure can when vibrations crack the brazing. Starts with a hairline crack/leak and later turns into a full fracture that dumps the tank all over the rear tire 50 or so miles from help. Clean the whole tank area and observe where the leakage originates from. My metal of choice seems to be Unobtanium.

kommando · Jul 21, 2017

There is a metric Dowty washer that fits and works better than the aluminium or copper washers, M30 may be the size but I will check later and update.

M26 for the oil tank banjo, 2 off per tank.

M30 was for the sump plug, 1 off per sump plug.

bucksfizz · Jul 21, 2017

The spanner/wrench you are looking for is a 1.1/8" AF ring type.
I have such a tool made by Draper Tools, and it fits without fouling the rear mudguard.

spartanman · Jul 21, 2017

bucksfizz said:
The spanner/wrench you are looking for is a 1.1/8" AF ring type.
I have such a tool made by Draper Tools, and it fits without fouling the rear mudguard.

Thanks, that's just what I needed.

speirmoor · Jul 21, 2017

Knipex smooth pliers will do the job also. Spendy but an amazing tool you'll use over and over again for all applications.
https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603250-10-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000X4OG94

DevonNorton · Jul 22, 2017

Hello Spartanman
It might also be worth trying a fibre washer.
I could not get an oil-tight seal with the 'standard' alloy washer and was worried about over-tightening and causing thread damage.
A fibre washer worked fine.
Andy

Bernhard · Jul 22, 2017

The Buckeye Rider said:
Stopping the oil leak could be as simple as annealing the copper sealing washers. Heat them up red hot and let them cool then reinstall. This gets them very soft and they will crush/seat better. Get a wrench and grind it down to fit.
ride On
Dave

Sorry, this is wrong-you dip the heated copper in water to anneal it- this method does NOT work with any other metal :!:

L.A.B. · Jul 22, 2017

Bernhard said:
The Buckeye Rider said:

Stopping the oil leak could be as simple as annealing the copper sealing washers. Heat them up red hot and let them cool then reinstall. This gets them very soft and they will crush/seat better. Get a wrench and grind it down to fit.
ride On
Dave

Click to expand...

Sorry, this is wrong-you dip the heated copper in water to anneal it

No, that is wrong, heating the copper (to dull cherry red) anneals it.

http://www.materialseducation.org/educa ... Copper.pdf

Annealing the copper requires a high temperature. Copper melts at 1357Kelvin and annealing generally occurs at greater than half the melting point in degrees K; even higher temperature causes faster annealing (but not past the melting temperature, of course). Typical temperature to use is 400C or 700F. Annealing causes the structure to create and grow new grains that are free of strain. The new grains remove all dislocations and other defects caused by the deformation, thus leaving the material in its original soft condition, although NOT in its original shape—it will still be the same shape as after deformation, but can be easily bent again. Annealing takes time and temperature, so that this part of the experiment can only be done with a high enough temperature annealing furnace or in a propane torch. If not readily available, the copper can be taken elsewhere and annealed, then presented to the class at a later date in its annealed condition.

•
Cooling rate after annealing does not matter (except at 10 million degrees per second the material would get harder again)

http://www.howtohistory.com/2011/01/how ... al-copper/

The annealing process is relatively straight forward and for smaller pieces generally involves bringing the metal to a dark red heat by use of a torch or other heat source and allowing it to air cool.

annealing-solid-copper-head-gasket-t22524.html

grandpaul · Jul 22, 2017

bucksfizz said:
The spanner/wrench you are looking for is a 1.1/8" AF ring type.
I have such a tool made by Draper Tools, and it fits without fouling the rear mudguard.

Exactly to one I was talking about. Got mine at Pep Boys.

Leaking Oil Tank Filter

spartanman

The Buckeye Rider

dave M

madass140

Fast Eddie

ashman

Towner

eskasteve

grandpaul

Torontonian

kommando

bucksfizz

spartanman

speirmoor

DevonNorton

Bernhard

L.A.B.

Moderator

grandpaul

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